OK, and finally, the part of this report that fellow climbers and athletes might find the most interesting. How is athletic performance affected by fasting and keto?
From my experimenting with fasting and the ketogenic diet, my conclusion is that fasting and keto are definitely performance-enhancing tools for an athlete, specifically when it comes to endurance, where the body needs to be pushed for hours at a calorie deficit and still perform well. Below I give some anecdotal and scientific support of this conclusion.
Fasting: As I mentioned previously in this report, I have intermittant fasted for years, so on a normal day I often go up to 20 hours without eating before I have my first meal. As a result, my body is quite used to long stretches without incoming food, and hence needing to draw from its energy reserves (stored glycogen when I am eating carbs on a daily basis, or stored fat when I am on the ketogenic diet or burned through my glycogen stores). I suspect my body's familiarity with drawing from its own energy reserves has helped on big days in the mountains, when calorie output exceeds calorie intake. I rarely feel the need to eat food for energy on a climb, and despite the fact that I am often eating very little during a big athletic push, I usually experience unfluctuating energy throughout the day; I cannot remember the last time I "bonked".
Keto: Because the ketogenic diet deprives the body of carbs, it forces the body to use fat (through a process called ketosis) and protein (through a process called glycolysis) for energy. Once "fat-adapted," the body does not seem to distinguish between dietary fat or body fat, opening up a huge source of energy off your own body. It seems clear to me that being fat-adapted (or at least having the body trained to easily be in this state) is a performance-enhancing tool for an endurance athlete.
So, how about we crunch some numbers! (After all, I am a math teacher.) How long can a healthy body safely go without food? I'll use my own body as an example. Say I weigh 120 lb and have 18 % body fat; this means I have about 21.6 pounds of fat on me. But some of this fat is necessary for essential body functions and padding the organs; let's say I need 8% body fat for essential body functions (sources will vary on this percentage, anywhere from 3-12%). So this roughly gives me 10% of my body weight—12 pounds of fat—that is safely available for fuel. A pound of fat has 3,500 calories of energy, so 12 pounds of fat equates to 42,000 calories. At an energy need of 2000 calories per day, this is 21 days worth of fuel just stored on my body! And I am a rather thin person, so this number would be a lot higher for most people (in fact, here's a
link to an article about a guy who went over a year without eating!). Not even a car can go 21 days straight without needing a fill-up. Clearly, the body has more than enough energy to fuel itself for a long push in the mountains. It's just a matter of being able to tap into that energy source. Fasting and the ketogenic diet are a way to train the body to be able to easily tap into this energy source.
And finally, a piece of anecdotal evidence: In July, I did a
22.5-hour 2-route day on The Diamond (CO) entirely fasted. In fact, I hadn't eaten since noon the day before, so by the time we got back to the car—and I did eat then, I admit I was pretty ravenous once I got started—I hadn't ingested any calories for 36 hours. All I consumed was electrolyte-enhanced water. And I felt just fine. Crazy, huh?
And as a final note, as my disclaimer at the start of this page mentioned, fasting and the ketogenic lifestyle is not for everyone: it is challenging physically, mentally, and socially. But if you think you're up for the challenge and/or just curious to know how your body feels, give it a try!