Prusik Peak, Der Sportsman (5.11+/12-, 6p)

Prusik Peak

Route:

Der Sportsman

5.11+/12-, 6p

Steep, splitter crack systems linked by airy, committing sequences on pitch after pitch of perfect, white granite.

Region: Washington
Elev: 8,000 ft
Rock type: Granodiorite
Type: 
Date(s): July 27-29, 2025 (Sun-Tue)
Partner(s): Nate Beckwith

Route Overlay

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Intro

When I lived in Washington (2008-2019), I had climbed all of the main routes on Prusik: West Ridge (5.7, 6-7p), Burger-Stanley (5.9+, 6p), Beckey-Davis (5.9, 6p), Boving-Christensen (5.10, 4p), Solid Gold (5.11a, 4-5p), and an FA we called "Energizer Bunny" (5.10+ C1, 5p). (Links at top of this page for these routes.) The one major line I hadn’t done when I moved to Colorado was Der Sportsman (5.11+, 6p)—a true classic. It follows steep, splitter crack systems, linked by airy and committing sequences, all on pitch after pitch of perfect white granite. So when I returned to Washington in July 2025 to visit family and climb with a friend from Colorado, Der Sportsman was at the top of my list. Nate was in.

Given the strenuous approach and our desire to climb well, we decided to hike in the day before and camp at the base of Prusik. That left the decision of which approach to take: the shorter but more punishing Aasgard Pass or the longer, gentler Snow Lakes trail. I let Nate choose—he picked Aasgard for the hike in. We bivied at the beautiful Gnome Tarn, just 20 minutes from the base of Prusik’s towering south face.

To maximize our chances of freeing the route, we climbed in a “fix and follow” style, tagging a small haul bag to keep weight off our harnesses. Nate led the first three pitches; I took the final three. The first pitch was the technical crux, while the second pitch was the mental crux. The remaining pitches featured sustained 5.10 climbing, with a 5.11c crux on the final pitch. I was stoked to get a tronsight of the crux pitch and agreed with Nate that it would have felt far harder on lead, especially while hunting for small cam and RP placements mid-pump. The climb took us seven hours base to summit, and the descent—rappelling the north side—went smoothly and quickly. It was a spectacular day to be in the alpine.

After the climb, we enjoyed another beautiful evening at our bivy. The temperatures were unusually warm. While relaxing at camp—eager to see more of the Enchantments and perhaps a tad traumatized by Aasgard Pass—Nate decided he wanted to hike out via Snow Lakes. Although our car was at the Stuart Lake trailhead, we were fortunate to catch a ride back from a friendly gal from Leavenworth.

This page includes a route overlay and photos from our climb, along with snapshots of our time enjoying the stunning Enchantments.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Approach Prusik Peak via either Aasgard Pass or the Snow Lakes Trail, depending on your preference. Some cross-country travel is required to reach the base of the peak. Both trailheads require a USFS parking pass, and camping in the Enchantments is by permit only from May 15 to October 15. Permits must be obtained online in advance.
Photos of the hike in are at the bottom of this page.

Pitch 1

5.11d/12a, 50m
Technical crux pitch. Begin with easy but less inspiring climbing up a left-slanting crack system, eventually reaching a stance below a delicate 5.11– tips crux that guards the base of a wide stem box. After pulling the crux, you enter the beautiful twin cracks—starting with stemming, then committing to a pumpy lieback up the right crack to a hanging bolted belay. Gear is tricky throughout, but two bolts near the top provide helpful protection.

It’s possible to belay just after the 5.11– move at the base of the stem box. This alternative stance is slightly more comfortable. Cascades Rock suggests linking the stem box with Pitch 2 from here, but this can be challenging with only a double rack in the smaller sizes.

Pitch 2

5.11- PG13
Mental crux—never dangerous, but definitely heady. Start by moving up the corner above (or take the grainy corner on the right for more gear options), then cut right through a knobby crux protected by a fixed pin. Clip a bolt and step around the arête to the right, gaining a slab. Stem further right to another bolt, then follow knobs to the base of an offset tips crack with a fixed pin at the prow. Use technical footwork and fingerwork to climb the seam to a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3

5.10d, 35m
Move left into the obvious flake/crack, then jam up stellar 5.10 terrain in a corner to a large ledge. Build a gear anchor.

Pitch 4

5.10c, 30m
Continue up the obvious corner crack above, then make a committing crack switch to the right after about 20 feet. Follow the new corner until dirt and vegetation force a traverse right to a pillar with a short left-facing corner—there’s a fixed pin along this traverse. Climb the wild pillar, mantle over the other side, and belay on the ledge above using a fixed pin and gear.

Pitch 5

5.10b, 30m
Climb the short corner above and to the left to a brief crux, then move up and right onto a slab. You'll find two belay bolts and a decent stance here, but it’s better to continue past a bulge and past cracks and blocks and build a gear anchor at a higher stance on a small ledge, with a bolt located to the left.

Pitch 6

5.11c, 30m
Step left, clip a bolt, and climb the offsize splitter (low crux) that quickly turns into perfect hands. This leads into a chimney with a loose block in the back, then finishes with a top-out to the left. There’s a bolted belay at the top of the chimney (along with a seemingly random protection bolt), but you can continue all the way to the summit.

Hike Out

2nd
The long hike out.
Photos of the hike in are at the bottom of this page.

Photos & Video

Approach

We approached via Aasgard Pass. 

Camp

We bivied at Gnome Tarn, 20 minutes from the base of Prusik's south face.

Hike Out

We hiked out via the Snow Lakes trail so Nate could experience the full Enchantments traverse. At the trailhead, we were lucky to hitch a ride back to the Stuart Lake trailhead with a friendly gal from town who had spent the morning trail running and biking.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

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