I had just arrived in Yosemite at the start of what I hoped would be about a month in the Valley. It was mid-morning, warm, and beautiful. I’d already posted on Mountain Project and lined up a partner for the following day, but I was itching to get on the rock right away. I’m not much of a soloist, but I figured there had to be something I’d feel comfortable on.
After Six (5.7+ or 5.6, 6 pitches) on Manure Pile Buttress (also known as Ranger Rock) sounded like a good choice.
After Six is a Yosemite classic—moderate, popular, and a great introduction to Valley granite. The first pitch is slick and demanding for the grade (5.7+), though well protected if you’re roped up and placing gear. Above that, the climbing eases to a few hundred feet of secure 5.6 or easier terrain on featured rock, with the views improving the higher you go. I was a bit wary about soloing the slick 5.7+ start, but I noticed a 5.5 face variation to the left that offered a safer way to the top of the first pitch.
When I reached the base, the main line for Pitch 1 looked inviting, so I decided to give it a try. I made it about two-thirds of the way up, moving carefully through a few insecure sections but generally finding good jams and holds that kept me comfortable. Then I hit a slick section with a sidepull and no jams, the feet on polished smears. I hesitated. I wasn’t 100%. But I also knew that the 5.7+ Pitch 1 was probably the best pitch of the route, and I really didn’t want to leave it unfinished. But after a moment of debate, I decided to downclimb what I’d done rather than commit to those less than certain moves above.
Back on the ground, feeling a little sheepish but still alive and motivated, I traversed left and took the easier 5.5 face variation to the top of Pitch 1. From there, the rest of the route was pure fun—secure, featured 5.6 soloing all the way to the top.
I took my time, soaking in the views as I went. Even with my faffing around on Pitch 1 and view soaking, my round trip was 1 hour 17 minutes, though it could easily have been half that if I’d been hurrying—but why rush?
Afterward, I sat in the parking lot writing up my trip report. It was such a beautiful day, and with Yosemite’s granite walls rising all around me, I decided to fit in another easy solo. I settled on
The Grack Center, a three-pitch 5.6 finger crack on Glacier Point Apron. I had actually climbed it once before—one of my very first leads during a workshop at Stanford back in
2005. This time, the whole outing took just 1 hour and 16 minutes car-to-car, with the climb itself only about 15 minutes. Since the descent involves rappelling, I wore a harness and a carried a rope on my back. The entire climb was just secure finger locks and hand jams, so despite having to carry a rope it was a fun solo option within my pretty modest solo comfort zone.
This page gives a pitch-by-pitch photo overviews of both climbs. It was a fun day.
