| 2007 | 2017 |
Durations | ||
Approach (car to buttress) duration | 3:35 | 3:15 |
Climb duration | 9:27 | 8:32 |
Descent (top to car) duration (2007: Slesse Mtn Trail; 2017: Crossover descent) | 6:34 (mostly in dark, pretty slow pace) | 6:45 (mostly in daylight, ok conditions, moderate pace) |
Total Car to car time | 19:45 | 18:58 |
Clock times | ||
Leave Trailhead of Slesse Memorial Trail | 4:15am | 3:42am |
Sunrise | 6:43am | 5:35am |
Propeller Cairn | 6:43am | 5:49am |
Start up 3rd class ledge after pocket glacier | 7:50am | 6:57am |
Bivy Ledge | 1:12pm | 11:34am |
Summit | 5:17pm | 3:29pm |
Begin descent | 5:26pm | 3:55pm |
Reach trail at bottom of last gully (about where Crossover descent leaves Slesse Mountain Trail) | 7:17pm | 5:18pm |
Sunset: | 7:23pm | 8:52pm |
Arrive at car (2007: Trailhead for Slesse Mtn Trail; 2017: Trailhead of Slesse Memorial Trail) | 12:00am | 10:40pm |
Photos: | Photo Descriptions: | |
Approach | 1. The well-marked trailhead for the Slesse Memorial Trail. 2. Nice bridge crossing Nesakwatch Creek shortly after the trailhead. 3. On the trail approaching the propeller cairn. 10 years ago, I recall this trail was actually a little hard to find at times! 4. The propeller cairn. Google Earth says about 5200ft, even though guidebooks say 4900ft. 5. Mt. Slesse basking in the first rays of morning sun, with the propeller cairn in the foreground. 6. If you look for it, you can see the wreckage from Flight 810 in this photo, from the tragic plane crash in December 1956. 7. Remnants of the Slesse Glacier when walking across the glacial slabs between the propeller cairn and the notch. 8. I noticed really pretty banding on the glacial slabs on this side of the mountain. Probably gneiss? 9. The notch. Google Earth says about 5200ft. 10. Descending the north side of the notch. 11. A snowfield we had to cross before arriving at the cirque below the pocket glacier. 12. Crossing the cirque below the pocket glacier. The glacier had slid early this year. 13. The remains of the pocket glacier at the flat upper end of the cirque. 14. The 3rd class ramp leading to the NE Buttress. | |
Climb | 15. Looking up at the NE Buttress from the end of the 3rd class ledge. 16. We soloed up to the base of the first 5.8 corner. This involved a couple moves of low 5th and a short 5.7 bit, but it saved some time. (Photo by DR.) 17. The prominent gendarme on the lower buttress, noted in several route descriptions. 18. The 5.8 corner where we roped up. 19. Easy low-5th climbing right of the crest. 20. Nice cracks. This is just before or on the direct route option. 21. This pitch is on the direct route option, and climbs through the contact zone between granite below (cracks) and metamorphic rock above (juggy). 22. Photo by DR looking down the pitch is the previous photo. This photo also shows the NE Buttress below. 23. Looking up the 200m 3rd/4th class section above the bivy ledges. We soloed this. 24. Climbing on the buttress crest, just after roping up after the 3rd/4th class terrain. 25. Good climbing on the upper buttress. 26. Old bolt on the upper buttress. 27. Old piton on the upper buttress. 28. Looking down while climbing on the upper buttress. The route here stays pretty close to the crest so the position is awesome. 29. The second to last pitch from the top. 30. The last section of climbing to the top. This part is on granite again. Slesse has pretty interesting geology. 31. The summit of Slesse. Mt. Shuksan is to the south. 32. American and Canadian Border Peaks to the southwest of Slesse. 33. Mount Baker, behind The Pleiades and Mt. Larabee. 34. Black and white version of previous photo. | |
Descent | 35. Starting the descent from the summit of Slesse. 36. Rappelling into the gully. 37. Scrambling down the gully. 38. Exit the gully to skiers right, at the cairn. This is easy to miss. 39. The Crossover descent leaves the Slesse Mountain Trail here and heads to the notch in the photo. 40. The other side of the notch in the previous photo. 41. A steepish snowfield to negotiate. I had decided not to bring my axe (although I did have crampons) but I wished I had my axe for this part. 42. Rappelling off a horn to get past some of steep, hard snow. 43. Pleasant terrain on the crest. 44. More pleasant terrain. 45. Not so pleasant terrain getting around Mt. Parkes. Apparently there is a way to stay high and then rappel into an easy gully system, but we scrambled around right on somewhat sketchy 3rd class grassy ledges. 46. Whatever way you get around Mt. Parkes, you end up here. Descend the gully westward. After this head back up east towards Crossover Pass. 47. Crossover Pass. 48. Views of Mt. Slesse from near Crossover Pass. From here Slesse does look like a Fang (Slesse means Fang in the native Salish tongue). 49. Zoomed in vies. The NE Buttress is the shade/sun line. 50. Descending snow after Crossover Pass. Again, I wished for my ice axe. But crampons were definitely nice to have. 51. Cairn marking the way. 52. Illusion Peaks, Nesakwatch Spires, and Mt. Rexford to the east. 53. Pink evening light on Nesakwatch Spire. 54. Nice evening light on Slesse. 55. Another nice photo by DR. 56. The lower Crossover descent through the trees is well-marked with reflectors (thanks to whoever did this!). Most climbers car-to-car the NE Buttress of Slesse, making for a long day (15-20 hours), so coming down in the dark is fairly common. |