Photos: | Photo descriptions: | ||
Approach | Tourist trail to Takakkaw Falls viewpoint, continue up climbers trail to top of scree cone. | 1. Starting off the approach on the tourist trail sans tourists (tourists don't like to wake up at dawn). 2. Scrambling up to the base of the route. (Photo by Rob.) | |
Climb | 3rd to 5.7, 1260', 12p | 3. Rob starting up Pitch 1. He is at the first bolt on the route. 4. The belay stations are all bolted on this route. This is the belay station at the top of Pitch 1. We did not belay here since we linked Pitches 1 and 2. 5. "Pitch" 3 and "Pitch" 4 are essentially a hike along an exposed trail. 6. Looking up Pitch 5. 7. A mountain goat en route. 8. "What do you need a rope for?" asks the goat. 9. Looking up Pitch 6. This pitch is a gear pitch. We had 4 cams (0.5, 0.75, 1, 2) and I used the 0.75 and 2 on this pitch. This was the only pitch we placed gear on, although we could have placed it elsewhere if wanted. 10. The rooster tail from the belay at the top of Pitch 7. (Photo by Rob.) 11. Rob stopping mid-pitch to photograph the falls (Pitch 8). 12. Rob's photo of the falls. 13. It's not every day you get to climb beside a 1,260-foot waterfall. 14. Pitch 9 climbs through a band of shale. There is not pro on this pitch, but it is fairly easy. 15. The entrance to the tunnel. 16. Bring a headlamp! It's dark in there! 17. Steph crawling through the tunnel. (Photo by Rob.) | |
Top of falls | 18-19. The top of the falls, just after the exit from the tunnel. 20. To get to the source of the falls, climb one more pitch after exiting the tunnel. This involves a short section of 5.6, protected by just one belay bolt at the very bottom of the pitch. We felt it was worth going to the top to see the source of the falls. 21. Above the falls. 22-23. Cool water-formed grooves just before the water begins to plummet 1,260 feet. | ||
Descent | Rappel route (we did 9-10 rappels with a single 60m rope; you can also use double ropes and do half as many rappels and twice as much rope management) | 24. If you do Pitch 12 above the tunnel, one rappel option is to do a single-rope rap off of this tree back down to the tunnel and reverse the tunnel. With two ropes, there might be another rap anchor to the left that allows you to rap to the belay anchor on the left side of the tunnel and hence bypass having to reverse the tunnel. 25. The exit of the tunnel. Since we only brought one rope, we reversed the tunnel. 26. Interesting fracture pattern on the ceiling of the tunnel. 27. Rappelling back down along the falls. We rappelled with a single 60m rope. 28. Rob at the belay anchor at the top of Pitch 7, taken on the way down. This is a much better viewpoint of the falls than the tourist trail viewpoint below. 29. Recent rockfall to climbers' left of Takakkaw Falls route. This had occurred at some point over the previous winter, according to an article I found on gripped.com. 30. Looking back up at Takakkaw Falls on the descent. The sun was just beginning to hit the route as we descended (this photo was taken around 10:40am). The route climbs to the left of the falls. |