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Mt. Chamberlin Sword in the Stone (5.11a, 10p), Mt. Newcomb Traverse from Chamberlin (3rd), & The Miter Janitorial Service (FA, 5.11a, 6p)

Mt. Chamberlin, Mt. Newcomb, & The Miter

Routes:

- Mt. Chamberlin, Sword in the Stone (5.11a, 10p)
- Mt. Newcomb, Traverse from Chamberlin (3rd)
- The Miter, Janitorial Service (FA, 5.11a, 6p)

The main objective of this trip was Sword in the Stone on Mt. Chamberlin. Amazing rock, amazing climbing. We also ticked off Mt. Newcomb on the descent of Chamberlin and the next day put up a 6-pitch FA on The Miter. What a trip!

Region: California
Elev: 11,464 ft (Chamberlin), 13,422 ft (Newcomb), 12,770 (The Miter)
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): August 18-22, 2025 (Mon-Fri)
Partner(s): Brett Wines

Route Overlays

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Map

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Intro

Brett and I were lucky to catch a perfect five-day weather window in the High Sierra before storms rolled in. Over the course of four nights and five days, Brett and I enjoyed three beautiful campsites, two multi-pitch 5.11a routes, and three summits. It was my first time climbing with Brett, but by the end of the trip we were already planning future adventures together—great partner, great climbing, and so much fun.

Our main objective was The Sword and the Stone (5.11a, 10p) on the sweeping north face of Mt. Chamberlin, one of the finest walls in the Sierra. This excellent linkup delivered everything we hoped for: long crack systems, steep and clean rock, and a crux 5.11a splitter halfway up the face. From the summit, we descended via the ridge to Mt. Newcomb, adding its airy 3rd-class traverse as a satisfying bonus peak.

The next day, with camp fortuitously positioned just below The Miter, we decided to go for one more big route. Its west face had no recorded climbs, so Brett and I set out on new ground and established Janitorial Service (5.11a, 6p). The rock was a bit grainy but the line was fun and adventurous—an exciting capstone to the trip.

Our camps along the way—from Chicken Spring Lake to the alpine gem of Sky Blue Lake, and finally Soldier Lake—were as memorable as the climbs themselves. 

Itinerary:
  • Monday: Hike from Cottonwood Pass Trailhead to Chicken Spring Lake
  • Tuesday: Move camp to Sky Blue Lake; Steph scouts Crabtree Pass in the afternoon
  • Wednesday: The Sword and the Stone (5.11a, 10p) on Mt. Chamberlin + traverse to Mt. Newcomb
  • Thursday: First ascent on The Miter — Janitorial Service (5.11a, 6p) — then move camp to Soldier Lake
  • Friday: Hike out to Cottonwood Pass Trailhead
The next page includes route overlays and pitch-by-pitch photos for The Sword and the Stone (5.11a, 10p) and Janitorial Service (5.11a, 6p), along with a selection of images from the approaches, descents, and camps. Many of the photos are Brett’s—he shares my love of photography and brought his SLR along—so credit is noted where due. Enjoy!

Trip Report by Day

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There are several ways to reach the Crabtree Lakes basin and Mt. Chamberlin, and honestly, securing the right permit might be the real crux.

Option 1: Start at Whitney Portal with a Whitney Trail permit. The most direct line is to follow the Whitney Trail to Trail Crest, then drop cross-country down steep scree slopes into the Crabtree Basin. About 11 miles—mostly on one of the cushiest trails in the Sierra, though the final stretch has no trail at all.

Option 2: Also begin at Whitney Portal, but instead of dropping early, stay on the JMT past Hitchcock Lakes and Guitar Lake. From Crabtree Ranger Station, leave the JMT and follow a much rougher trail into the Crabtree Lakes Basin. About 17 miles total. This option is best if you want to climb routes on Hitchcock along the way, and it’s generally more pleasant than Option 1 (unless slogging uphill on sliding scree with a heavy pack is your idea of fun).

Option 3: Approach from Cottonwood Pass, then head north on the PCT or take an off-trail shortcut through Rock Creek/Miter Basin. From there, go over Crabtree Pass and drop into Crabtree Basin. About 17 miles total, and usually much easier to get a permit for than either Whitney option.

Given the permit logistics, we chose Option 3.

Monday: Hike from Cottonwood Pass Trailhead to Chicken Spring Lake
Tuesday: Move camp to Sky Blue Lake; Steph scouts Crabtree Pass in the afternoon

Photos

Cottonwood Pass Trailhead to Chicken Spring Lake

The adventure kicked off with a $162 ticket for skipping my seat belt in Bishop.
Cottonwood Pass Trailhead.
Retired trailhead sign at Cottonwood Pass Trailhead.
An easy start to the hike.
A permit is required to stay overnight in the backcountry.
We went towards Cottonwood Pass.
Late afternoon sun.
We went right.
Chicken Spring Lake.
Camp at Chicken Spring Lake.
Gnarled old trees at Chicken Spring Lake.
Each one has its own personality.
Each one has its own personality.

Chicken Spring Lake to Sky Blue Lake

I woke up surrounded by candy wrappers.....
Morning reflection on Chicken Spring Lake.
Morning coffee.
A squirrel came around looking for handouts.
Steph photographing yet another tree. Photo by Brett.
The tree.
Soldier Lake. We went right around the lake. A few days later we ended up camping here for the night (the left trail goes to the campsites).
We filled up on water at Soldier Lake.
Ascending the slopes above Soldier Lake vis the 'unmaintained trail' option for getting into Rock Creek / Miter Basin.
Ascending the slopes above Soldier Lake vis the 'unmaintained trail' option for getting into Rock Creek / Miter Basin. Photo by Brett.
Ascending the slopes above Soldier Lake vis the 'unmaintained trail' option for getting into Rock Creek / Miter Basin. Photo by Brett.
Rock Creek / Miter Basin.
Rock Creek / Miter Basin.
This would make a great porch rock. If it didn't weigh several pounds.
Arriving at Sky Blue Lake. Photo by Brett.
Hiking along the shore of Sky Blue Lake.
Hiking along the shore of Sky Blue Lake.
Our campsite at Sky Blue Lake.
Our campsite at Sky Blue Lake. The Miter towers above.
Another photo of our camp.
Water directly from Sky Blue Lake.
Washing my feet in Sky Blue Lake. After I collected water.
Rockfringe Willowherb.
I went exploring above the lake. Here's a photo I took looking down at Sky Blue Lake.
A cool cloud.
Our campsite at Sky Blue Lake, with the later afternoon sun.
Our campsite at Sky Blue Lake, with the later afternoon sun.
A cozy spot to sleep. Thanks Brett for letting me borrow your extra one-person tent!
Dinner for me is oatmeal. Yep, I am weird.
The west face of The Miter towering above camp. We climbed this face a couple of days later.
I have a portable charger to keep my phone charged.

Our main objective was The Sword and the Stone (5.11a, 10p) on the sweeping north face of Mt. Chamberlin, one of the finest walls in the Sierra. This excellent linkup delivered everything we hoped for: long crack systems, steep and clean rock, and a crux 5.11a splitter halfway up the face. We led the route in blocks, with me taking the first six pitches and Brett finishing off the route. From the summit, we descended via the ridge to Mt. Newcomb, adding its airy 3rd-class traverse as a satisfying bonus peak.

Route Overlay

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Time Stats

Times
Leave camp at Sky Blue Lake: 5:18 am
Base of Sword in the Stone: 8:11 am
Start climbing: 8:35 am
Top of route: 3:09-3:32 pm
Summit of Chamberlin: 3:49-3:58 pm
Summit of Newcomb: 5:36 pm
Camp at Sky Blue Lake: 7:30 pm
Splits
Approach from Sky Blue Lake: 2 hours 53 minutes
Climb route: 6 hours 34 minutes
Top of route to summit of Chamberlin: 17 minutes
Summit of Chamberlin to summit of Newcomb: 1 hour 38 minutes
Summit of Newcomb to camp at Sky Blue Lake: 1 hour 54 minutes

Camp-to-camp time: 14 hours 12 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
To reach Sword in the Stone, you start from the Crabtree Lakes Basin. We began at Sky Blue Lake, crossed over Crabtree Pass, descended into the basin, and approached the base of the route from there
Morning coffee.
Morning coffee.
Leaving camp at Sky Blue Lake.
One of the coolest cairns I've encountered.
A waning moon.
Approaching in the morning darkness.
On the approach to Crabtree Pass.
On the approach to Crabtree Pass.
On the approach to Crabtree Pass.
Brett marvelling at a dihedral across the way.
The dihedral that caught Brett's attention.
Crabtree Lakes Basin.
The descent into Crabtree Lakes Basin from Crabtree Pass.
The upper of the Crabtree Lakes.
We filled up on water here.
Descending into Crabtree Lakes Basin, approaching Mt. Chamberlin (in half sun/shade).
Descending into Crabtree Lakes Basin, approaching Mt. Chamberlin (in half sun/shade).
Geting closer.
The Crabtree Lake directly below Mt. Chamberlin.
Approaching the base of the route.
Pitch 1 starts off the top of the snow.
Chimneying between rock and snow to get to the start of the route.
A view back down the snow from the top of the snow below Pitch 1.
The top of the snow below Pitch 1. This was an adequate place to stand and belay.
Brett ascending the snow to get to the start of the route.

Pitch 1

5.10d
The first pitch starts with a 10d bulge that eases into 10a hands. We stopped at around 35 m, as continuing beyond that point would have required a couple of #3 cams that had already been placed.
Looking up Pitch 1.
A bit higher on Pitch 1.
Looking down while leading Pitch 1.
The upper stretches of Pitch 1.
Looking down Pitch 1 from the belay at the top of the pitch.
Brett nearing the top of the pitch.

Pitch 2

5.10a
10a wide hands to a 5.8 chimney, then a 10a offwidth through a bulge, finishing with 10a hands.
Looking up the start of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.9 + 3rd
Loose 5.9 terrain to 3rd-class scrambling, ending at the belay at Peewee Pillar.
This photo shows the second half (the 3rd-class section) of Pitch 3. I had linked the first half of Pitch 3 with Pitch 2 and the second half with Pitch 4, but I wouldn’t recommend it, as it led to some simulclimbing.

Pitch 4

5.10a
Airy cracks and corners.
Steph leading Pitch 4. Photo by Brett. The typical belay at the base of Pitch 4 is Peewee Pillar, visible in the center of the photo, about 50 feet above where Brett is belaying when he took this photo.
Looking up the start of Pitch 4, from Peewee Pillar.
Brett following the fun Pitch 4 cracks and corners.

Pitch 5

5.10a
Through a crystalline band to 10a hands, reaching the base of the crux splitter.
Looking up Pitch 5. The pitch climbs through the crystalline band.
View out towads Crabtree Lakes Basin.

Pitch 6

5.11a
The crux pitch! Amazing tight hands splitter.
Looking up Pitch 6. This pitch follows the thin hands splitter.
Steph leading the thin hands splitter. Photo by Brett.
View down Pitch 6 from the belay at the top of the pitch.
Brett nearing the top of Pitch 6.

Pitch 7

5.10c
10c face moves featuring a flake with poor protection, but good technical climbing.
Looking up at the start of Pitch 7.
Brett starting up Pitch 7.
Pitch 7.
Steph following Pitch 7. Photo taken by Brett at the belay at the top of the pitch.
Steph following Pitch 7. Photo by Brett.
Some more crystalline rock on Pitch 7.
Brett at the belay at the top of Pitch 7.

Pitch 8

5.10a
10a splitter crack in a ramp, transitioning to delicate moves left on crystalline knobs, ending at the belay.
Looking up Pitch 8.
Brett’s jacket looks a lot like most of mine—mostly held together with tape.
A fresh strip of tape to cover a rip he got on Pitch 7.
Brett starting up Pitch 8.
I’ve been using a Gri-Gri for years, but this is the first time I noticed the Gri-Gri man has no pants or shoes!
View down from the belay at the top of Pitch 7.
View out, Crabtree Lakes below.
Fun climbing on Pitch 8.
Steph following Pitch 8. Photo by Brett.
Steph making the delicate moves left on crystalline knobs at the top of Pitch 8. Photo by Brett.

Pitch 9

5.10c
10c splitter corner to 5.9 stemming on knobs or 5.10 fists.
Brett leading Pitch 9.
View down from the belay at the top of Pitch 8.
Taken while following Pitch 9.
The final knobby 5.9 (or 5.10 fists) at the top of the pitch.
View from the belay at the top of Pitch 9, Crabtree Lakes below.
Looking down at Crabtree Lakes Basin. We had descended this from Crabtree Pass to Crabtree Lakes in order to get to the route.

Pitch 10

5.9 + low 5th
Begin with a short 5.9 section to reach easier ground, then follow mostly low 5th-class terrain to the summit ridge; it’s probably best to shorten the rope and simulclimb the remainder.
Brett starting off Pitch 10. This begins with a short 5.9 section.
The low 5th class terrain to the top.
The low 5th class terrain to the top.
A 5.5 splitter to finish off the route.

Top

To reach the summit, head up and left from the top of the route.
Regrouping at the top of the route.
Looking towards the summit of Mt. Chamberlin.
Heading towards the summit. Photo by Brett.
Almost at the summit.
Mt. Whitney. Photo by Brett Wines.
My friend Kishen climbed this route in August 2023 and recommended it to me—thanks, Kishen! I even found his entry in the summit register.
Guidebook research!
Our entry.
This side up.
Summit photo.

Traverse to Mt. Newcomb

3rd
From the top of the route, there are a couple of descent options. To return to Crabtree Lakes, head down and right, descending a scree gully (which may require snow gear early in the season). We opted to scramble the 3rd-class ridge to the summit of Mt. Newcomb, then descended back to Sky Blue Lake.
Looking at the traverse from Chamberlin to Newcomb.
A view back at Chamberlin during the traverse.
Some quartz crystals.
Traverse from Chamberlin to Newcomb. Photo by Brett.
A view back at Chamberlin during the traverse.
Traverse from Chamberlin to Newcomb (3rd).
View down at Crabtree Lakes Basin and the towering walls of Mt. Chamberlin.
View down at Crabtree Lakes Basin and the towering walls of Mt. Chamberlin.
Traverse from Chamberlin to Newcomb (3rd).
Some interesting lichen circles.
More interesting lichen circles. My theory is that these dark ones are the thriving colonies, whereas the ones in the previous photo are the dying colonies.
Nearing the summit of Newcomb.
Nearing the summit of Newcomb.
Brett on the summit of Newcomb.

Descent from Mt. Newcomb

3rd
From the summit of Mt. Newcomb, we descended back to Sky Blue Lake.
Descending Newcomb. We headed down the ridge a short bit before descending slopes towards Miter Basin.
A cool tunnel.
Descending Newcomb. We headed down the ridge a short bit before descending slopes towards Miter Basin.
At this notch in the ridge, we headed down slopes towards Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin.
Another 'skrittle in shoe' photo.
A lake high in Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin.
Descending into Miter Basin. Photo by Brett.
Beautiful evening light on the surrouding peaks.
Beautiful evening light on the surrounding peaks.
Beautiful evening light on the surrouding peaks.
Beautiful evening light on the surrouding peaks.
Nearing our camp at Sky Blue Lake.
Nearing our camp at Sky Blue Lake. Photo by Brett.

The next day, with camp fortuitously positioned just below The Miter, we decided to go for one more big route. Its west face had no recorded climbs, so Brett and I set out on new ground and established Janitorial Service (5.11a, 6p). The rock was a bit grainy but the line was fun and adventurous—an exciting capstone to the trip. A bonus was perfectly spaced belay ledges, roughly 30–35 meters apart, all the way to the summit.

Brett's MountainProject description

Brett created a mountainproject page for this route. Check it out: 
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/201552144/janitorial-service

Route Overlay

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Time Stats

Times
Leave camp at Sky Blue Lake: 8:43 am
Base of the west face of The Miter: 9:15 am
Start climbing: 9:49 am
Summit of The Miter: 2:19 pm
Begin descent: 2:50 pm
Camp at Sky Blue Lake: 4:00 pm
Splits
Approach from Sky Blue Lake: 32 minutes
Climb route: 4 hours 30 minutes
Summit of The Miter to camp at Sky Blue Lake: 1 hour 10 minutes

Camp-to-camp time: 7 hours 17 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

3rd
Scramble up to the base of the west face from Sky Blue Lake.
Morning reflections.
Morning reflections.
Panorama of morning reflections.
Camp at Sky Blue Lake.
Panorama of camp at Sky Blue Lake.
Morning coffee.
Collecting water from Sky Blue Lake.
Sky Blue Lake.
Starting our approach towards The Miter.
A 3rd class scramble through the cliff band.
Approaching The Miter.
Cushion Buckwheat. Matches my socks and shoes.
Rockfringe Willowherb.
Looking up west face of The Miter, choosing our line of ascent.
Looking up west face of The Miter, choosing our line of ascent.
Looking up west face of The Miter, choosing our line of ascent.
We noticed some splitters up high. Our line went up some of these.

Pitch 1

5.9
A couple of options exist to start up to the corner above. We ended on a nice ledge, but getting back to the corner from there involved some unprotected face moves. A more secure belay may be found in the corner, as indicated on the topo.
Brett starting up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.10b
Follow the series of right-facing corners, including the obvious red corner, and finish on a large beautiful ledge.
Brett starting Pitch 2, via the face traverse.
Notice the exfoliating rock. Overall, the rock was solid but somewhat gritty.
Brett leading Pitch 2.
Brett higher on Pitch 2.
The corner start of Pitch 2. Probably the recommended way to do it.
Taken while following Pitch 2.
Steph following Pitch 2. Photo by Brett.
Steph following Pitch 2. Note the blocks a the top of the corner. These blocks forced us to climb to the left to access the ledge. We removed these blocks. Photo by Brett.
Some large blocks at the top of Pitch 2. These blocks had forced us to climb to the left to access the ledge. We removed the blocks so that the pitch can finish directly on the ledge.
A nice ledge at the top of Pitch 2.
I accidentally brought my Otakis on this trip—turns out there’s a reason they aren’t designed for crack climbing…
Brett took some detailed notes as we climbed.

Pitch 3

5.10b
Step left and climb the 5.8 face, protected by small cams in a thin splitter, then move left to the obvious right-facing corner. Follow the corner (more small cams) to exit onto a large ledge (this route has perfectly-paced belay ledges!), then traverse 20 feet right to reach the base of a fingercrack splitter on the face.
Looking up above Pitch 2. We did not take this line because the cracks were too flaring for good gear. Photo by Brett Wines.
Looking up above Pitch 2. We did not take this line because the cracks were too flaring for good gear. Photo by Brett Wines.
Looking up above Pitch 2. We took the corner for Pitch 3.
Steph starting Pitch 3. Photo by Brett.
The thin splitter on the 5.8 section that starts off Pitch 3.
The corner on Pitch 3.
Steph nearing the top of the Pitch 3 corner. Photo by Brett.
Brett nearing the ledge at the top of Pitch 3.
Brett on the ledge at the top of Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

5.11a
Climb the finger-crack splitter, then jog left near the top where the crack closed up (a bolt here could allow a direct finish). From the top of the splitter, a few bouldery moves lead to a ledge (another ledge belay, yay!).
Looking up the fingercrack splitter we decided to climb for Pitch 4.
Steph leading Pitch 4, shortly after the step left where the crack closed up. Photo by Brett.
Looking down Pitch 4.
The final bouldery moves to the ledge at the top of the pitch.
Sky Blue Lake below.

Pitch 5

4th
Easy ground leads to the base of a splitter on a block.
Brett took this photo of Pitch 5. Easy ground to the base of a splitter on a block.

Pitch 6

5.6
Climb the splitter and establish a belay shortly above.
Brett leding Pitch 6.

Top

Scramble to the top. Enjoy the 360° view.
Scrambling to the top.
On the summit of The Miter.
Summit photo. Photo taken by Brett.
Summit register.
Looking down the North Ridge of The Miter. Iridescent Wall in the distance.
Iridescent Wall to the north. It features some established routes as well as potential for new lines.
Another photo if Iridescent Wall. Photo by Brett.
A view to the west.
Iridescent Lake and Mt. Langley in distance.
Looking down towards the NW Chute.

Descent

4th + rappel
Downclimb the North Ridge (4th), then rappel once (we had a 70, but a 60 would get you down to scrambling terrain) into the NW Chute (3rd). Scramble down the NW Chute (3rd) back to Miter Basin.
Beginning the descent.
Scrambling down the North Ridge of The Miter.
One single-rope rappel to get into the NW Chute.
One single-rope rappel to get into the NW Chute.
Descending the NW Chute.
Descending the NW Chute.
A giant wedged block above the NW Chute.

After climbing The Miter, we packed up camp at Sky Blue Lake and moved down to Soldier Lake. The following day we hiked the rest of the way out, timing it well to stay ahead of the incoming storm.

Thursday: After climbing The Miter, hike from Sky Blue Lake to Soldier Lake
Friday: Hike out to the Cottonwood Pass Trailhead

Photos

Sky Blue Lake to Soldier Lake

The west face of The Miter. I took this photo as we began our hike out after climbing this face.
The Miter at the head of Miter Basin.
Another beautiful old dead tree.
Another beautiful old dead tree. The Miter behind.
Nature's artistic patterns underfoot.
Nature's artistic patterns underfoot.
Hiking out Rock Creek / Miter Basin. Photo by Brett.
Hiking out Rock Creek / Miter Basin.
Late afternoon sun.
I wonder how this formed? Maybe a rock or sediment was eroded out?
A view back.
A view back. Photo by Brett.
A couple of bees.
I was perplexed why the south/downhill sides of several trees seemed to have a light scarring.
We encountered a donkey on the trail.
The donkey.
We also encountered some horses grazing in the meadow.
These horses have a nice place to hang out.
A pretty white horse. Photo by Brett.
Another beautiful tree.
Some deer.
Camp at Soldier Lake.
Camp at Soldier Lake.
Brett's rough draft topo for our FA on The Miter.

Soldier Lake to Cottonwood Pass Trailhead

Coyote.
Coyote.
Coyote.
Hiking past Chicken Spring Lake.
Natures's artwork.
Instead of driving down to Bishop to hunt for a spot, I opted to stay at the trailhead and write my trip report—thanks to my Starlink Mini, this was no problem.
Brett stopped in Independence for some hommeade ice cream. Yum! Photo by Brett.
The storms have arrived. Photo by Brett on his drive back to Bishop. It rained at the trailhead, but I stayed cozy in my car, working away.

Previous and Next Adventures

Squamish, BC (The Grand Wall and more)
Cragging in Pine Creek Canyon, CA

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