The Wizard, The Sorcerer, The Magician (behind), The Charlatan as seen from high on The Witch.
The Witch and The Warlock as seen from top of The Wizard.
For the first week of July, I joined my friends Dow and Danny for 6 days of climbing in The Needles. The Needles are a group of granite spires that stand watch atop a narrow ridge that sits high over the Kern River in Sequoia National Forest in southern California. This is a climber's paradise: perfect rock, beautiful scenery, reasonable summer temperatures (due to higher elevation), minimal crowds, and adventure in abundance. With names such as The Warlock, The Witch, The Sorcerer, the area has an aura of mystery. The climbing at the Needles is known to be stout at the grade, and there are few easy routes and many hard routes. This was my first time climbing in The Needles, and it most certainly will not be my last (update:
the next summer, I returned to climb 10 more routes). It might be my new favorite place to climb.
I climbed a dozen awesome routes over the course of the 6 days, sometimes climbing as a group of three and sometimes climbing with just Danny on Needles classics that Dow had already climbed. We spent a day each at Hermit Spire and Dome Rock, and then the next four days climbing in Needles proper. Below is a list of routes we climbed, linked to their photos and color-coded by formation.
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South Face Route on Hermit Spire (5.8+, 6 pitches, 950')
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Tobin's Dihedral on Dome Rock (5.10+, 1 pitch, 160')
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Arch Bitch-Up on Dome Rock (5.8, 3 pitches, 450')
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Airy Interlude on The Witch (5.10a, 3 pitches, 400')
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Imaginary Voyage on The Warlock (5.9, 4 pitches, 600')
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The Howling Pitch 1 (original line) on The Warlock (5.9, 1 pitch, 160')
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Fancy Free on The Charlatan (5.10b, 3 pitches, 400')
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Spooky on The Charlatan (5.9, 2 pitches, 175')
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South Face w/ S Crack start variation on The Warlock (5.9+, 8 pitches, 800')
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Igor Unchained on The Witch (5.9, 4 pitches, 400')
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S Crack on The Warlock (5.10, 7-8 pitches, 800')
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Yellow Brick Road on The Wizard (5.9, 3 pitches, 300')
- Summit spire aka
Our Lady of the Needles on The Charlatan (5.7, 1 pitch, 45')