Summit 3 - North Palisade elev.: 14,242 ft
route: NW ridge, traverse from Starlight
on summit: 7:28 pm (uh oh....)
Starlight and North Palisade are quite close, but there is a difficult gap (aka "Notch" or "stem of faith") to cross which requires a tricky swing from one side of the chasm to the other off a set of slings (some reports mention downclimbing a chimney and then being able to step across the gap lower, but this looked a bit tricky too). From the gap, various reports suggest taking the right (SW) side, even though this side appears to be less featureless than the left (NE) side. We opted for the blocky left (NE) side, but ended up encountering a lot of early-season snow that forced us into convoluted and difficult detours; perhaps the right (SW) side is indeed a better choice. At least the evening lighting was nice when we reached the summit of North Palisade!
After the summit of North Palisade, the traverse requires descending to the U-Notch, which is an easy scramble and a couple of rappels from some slings. (Note: it is also possible to avoid the rappels by downclimbing the Class 4 Clyde variation, which descends the drainage to the right (west) side of the peak. Cairns mark where you leave this drainage about 400 ft down, turning left and traversing on some exposed but solid ledges that deposit you in the W Chute about 50-100 ft below the U-Notch. You could also downclimb the area where the rappels are, which is low 5th.) By the time we reached the U-Notch, it was getting dark. Rather than spend a cold night in the notch, we decided to try to descend the U-Notch couloir, hoping that since it was early season the condition of couloir would be more snow than ice (the couloir is a popular alpine ice climb in later summer). Fortunately, we both had crampons and 2 tools, and we encountered no ice, so we were able to back down the 2000' of steep snow in the darkness without a problem. There is a bergschrund at the base of the couloir, but we found some rappel slings on the side wall (climber's right) and our rope just reached over the schrund. While we were setting up our rappel, some giant rocks careened down the couloir right where we had been about 10 minutes previous. Yikes. From the base of the couloir was an easy traverse across the Palisade Glacier to our camp, which we reached around midnight. I made some hot chocolate, snapped a few shots of the Milky Way above the moonlit Palisades, and joined Mark who was already snoring away in the tent. It was disappointing not to have completed the five-summit traverse, but at least we climbed the three more difficult summits, enjoyed that part of the route, and made it safely back to camp. I will definitely have to return for the full traverse, someday....
Photos from North Palisade section:
Mark's annotated overlays for the North Palisade section:
Starlight and N Palisade | Ascent (**what is shown here might not be best line of ascent**) |
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