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Panther Peak (Sequoia), Krymptonite (5.11b, 5p)

Panther Peak (Sequoia)

Route:

Krymptonite

5.11b, 5p

Four steep, outstanding pitches on near-perfect rock, with an almost even mix of face and crack climbing.

Region: California
Elev: 9,049 ft
Rock: Granite
Mode: 
Date(s): June 19, 2026 (Fri)
Partner(s): John Alcorn, Daniel Jeffcoach

Route Overlay

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Intro

Panther Peak (9,006') is a small summit in Sequoia National Park along the ridge connecting Moro Rock and Alta Peak. Its steep south face, defined by two prominent buttresses, is displayed to hikers on the popular High Sierra Trail. Until around 2015, this 600–700-foot formation had received little attention from climbers. 

Today, Panther Peak has become a fully developed climbing destination and a worthy addition to the Generals Highway climbing circuit. It is well worth a visit if you're already climbing at Moro Rock, Tokopah, the Chimney Rocks, the Baldies, or elsewhere in the area. The collection of orange granite towers that forms the summit ridge offers excellent rock, abundant sunshine, outstanding views, and uniquely steep, featured granite face climbing.

Krymptonite (5.11b, 5 pitches) was the first route established on the south face and has seen numerous repeats since. Every pitch climbs high-quality rock and combines cracks with bolt-protected, steep, sustained face climbing. Expect wild sequences on positive crimps on steep featured granite. The first ascent was completed in April 2015 by Vitaliy Musiyenko and Adam Sheppard, after Sheppard, Matt Schutz, and Daniel Jeffcoach had established the first two pitches earlier that month.

John and I had one more day in SEKI before I headed to the Needles to meet another partner and he returned to Yosemite to climb NIAD. Unsure whether John would take a rest day before NIAD, I began looking into routes I could top-rope solo. Panther Peak seemed to offer several options that could be accessed from above, and Krymptonite looked particularly appealing. I had run into Daniel Jeffcoach on my previous trip to SEKI, so I sent him a message asking about the logistics of reaching the Pitch 4 anchor. Serendipitously, he was looking for a partner and had independently planned to climb Krymptonite. We teamed up, and John ultimately decided to join as well. Climbing as a group of three can be fun sometimes—lighter packs on the approach, good company, and more time to relax and socialize at the belays. The tradeoff, of course, is that progress tends to be slower, but on a route where speed isn't critical, the extra camaraderie can make for a really enjoyable day.

We climbed in fix-and-follow style, with the two followers climbing about 30 feet apart. Daniel led the first two pitches, John led the next two, and I enjoyed a nice top-rope ride. The final pitch was a short mid-fifth-class scramble to the summit ridge.

The climbing was every bit as good as advertised. Nearly every pitch offered memorable movement on excellent rock. The Pitch 3 and Pitch 4 face pitches were my favorites and rank among the better granite face pitches I've climbed. John achieved an impressive onsight of both difficult leads. By early afternoon we topped out among the orange granite towers of Panther Peak and enjoyed expansive views across the Great Western Divide and the heart of Sequoia National Park.

This page includes a route overlay and pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb.

Our Rack

Singles .1-.2, doubles .3-#2, single #3. 10 quickdraws + 4 alpine draws. Micronuts (HB #6 seems to fit well) useful for protecting the mantle move getting to the first bolt on P3.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
The approach is straightforward: a gradual uphill hike on a well-marked trail for about 95% of the way, followed by a short section of easy cross-country travel. Park at Wolverton, between the Moro Rock turnoff and the Lodgepole Visitor Center, or nearby at the end of the dirt road used by the park for debris storage. Follow the trail along Long Meadow, then continue on the signed trail toward Panther Gap and Alta Peak.

After cresting a ridge, leave the trail and head cross-country toward the ridge containing Panther Peak. Soon you will reach a saddle just west of the summit and the south-face formations. Leave packs here, then descend a faint path through the brush to the base of the wall.

Walk along the base until you see the finger crack going up towards the big roofs on the left buttress.

The approach took us 1 hour 25 minutes to reach the saddle west of the peak, plus less than 10 additional minutes to the base of the climb.

GPS Track for approach.

Pitch 1

5.10d
Follow the finger crack until it ends, then move right past two bolts. Belay at the base of the next crack from an anchor consisting of one bolt supplemented with gear.

Pitch 2

5.11b
Follow the steep crack until it ends, past two bolts (crux) to a two bolt belay under a small roof.

Pitch 3

5.11b
Climb around the right side of the roof and place a small piece of gear (an HB #6 brass offset or a #1 Z4) to protect the crux move. Mantle up and locate the first bolt. From there, pull on horizontal dikes to the right of the bolt and follow a line of bolts up and left. Steep, sustained face climbing on mostly positive but often spaced holds leads generally up and left past about ten bolts to a two-bolt anchor on a fantastic ledge. The climbing is pumpy, varied, and exceptionally high quality—one of the best 5.11 granite face pitches out there. Belay from a two-bolt anchor on a small pinnacle along the arete.

Pitch 4

5.11a
Follow the arete on enjoyable climbing past several gear placements. The difficulty gradually increases as the pitch progresses, culminating in a bolted crux near the top. Finish at a two-bolt anchor on the false summit.

Descent

Walk off
Easily walk off the backside back down to the saddle in the ridge and your packs. It is possible to do a low 5th scramble off midway through Pitch 5.

Next Day

Giant Sequoias
The next day before I drove out of Sequoia en route to the next destination (the Needles), I did a morning walk through the Congress Sequoia grove. These trees are magical.

Climbs We Did

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Incredible route! Steep and well-featured perfect granite. A modern classic. Mad props to everyone involved with establishing this gem. The beta was spot on, cruxes well protected and route finding easy. Rack up at the notch before scrambling to the base. The last top-out pitch is easy to scramble off from and is an easy walk back to the notch

Time Stats

Times
Leave car: 5:00 am
Base of route: 7:16 am
Start climbing: 7:52 am
Top of route: 12:28 pm
Base of route: 1:12 pm
Back at car: 3:49 pm
Splits
Approach: 2 hours 16 minutes
Climb: 4 hours 36 minutes
Rappel route: 44 minutes
Total car-to-car time: 10 hours 49 minutes

Our Rack

Singles .0-.4, doubles .5-#2, single #3. 10 quickdraws + 4 alpine draws. micro nuts useful/mandatory for the mantle move getting to the first bolt on P3.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
1.5 hours gradual uphill on a well marked trail for 95% of it and then simple cross country travel. Park at Wolverton (in between Moro turnoff and Lodgepole visitor center) or near it at the end of a dirt road used by the park to pile debris and random stuff. Gain the trail along Long Meadow and follow signs for Alta Peak and Panther Gap. Leave the trail after cresting a ridge and hike towards the ridge that Panther is on. After 5 minutes, arrive at a saddle just west of the peak and rocks. Leave packs here and descend along the base which involves thick but relatively short bushwhacking.

Or go to summit and rap in depending on the route. Or hike down East gully. Pretty simple.

GPS Track for approach.

Pitch 1

5.10d
Obvious splitter (10a) with crux face climbing past two bolts to get to the anchor which is one bolt and gear. shorter pitch

Pitch 2

5.11b
Harder version of pitch 1. Steep 5.10 crack climbing (loose block wouldn't trundle) leads to 2 bolt face climbing crux. 2 bolt anchor under a roof.

Pitch 3

5.11b
Traverse delicately out right until you can get some thin gear in a shallow corner. Mantle up and clip the first bolt. kinda spooky. needs a bolt there imo. Steep face climbing on mostly good but spaced holds leads past ten bolts or so, generally up and left, to a two bolt anchor on a sweet ledge. Pumpy. One of the best granite face pitches ever

Pitch 4

5.11a
Easy but runout climbing up the arete leads to a few cracks that take gear. Once the arete steepens, bolts start showing up. Steep and sustained to the top in a spectacular position. 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 5

5.8
Alpiney ridge climbing leads to the next higher summit, from which you can unrope.

Descent

Walk off
Descent - Easily walk off the backside backdown to the saddle in the ridge and your packs.

Excellent face climbing on solid stone.

Time Stats

Times
Leave car: 5:00 am
Base of route: 7:16 am
Start climbing: 7:52 am
Top of route: 12:28 pm
Base of route: 1:12 pm
Back at car: 3:49 pm
Splits
Approach: 2 hours 16 minutes
Climb: 4 hours 36 minutes
Rappel route: 44 minutes
Total car-to-car time: 10 hours 49 minutes

Our Rack

10-12 quickdraws/slings

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Either scramble/hike down from the ridge west of Panther Peak, around to the south side of the mountain (same as other routes), or better, hike to the true summit of Panther Peak where there is a summit registry, then scramble south to a large flat ledge to the south. This is the east peak buttress of Panther Peak. (Krymptonite and Superman are on the west buttress.) Rap the route, using an off-route rap anchor, for the second rappel.

Pitch 1

5.11b
P1 11b, 40ft - Very steep and left-trending right off the ground. Pull around the lip to lower angle terrain and a belay at a good ledge.

Pitch 2

5.10d
P2 10d, 80ft - Less than vertical face climbing on great rock to a big ledge. Maybe the best pitch on the route.

Pitch 3

5.11a
P3 11a, 50ft - Steep climbing up an interesting wide corner that is more face climbing than crack climbing.

Pitch 4

5.11d
P4 11d, 80ft - Exposed left-trending vertical face to steep hero jugs on the arete. Continue up the arete to a belay on a ledge. Wild!

Pitch 5

5.10d
P5 10d, 90ft - Climb up and right on less than vertical face that can be a bit dirty, but good rock. Eventually join the last few bolts of Ailurophobia on the arete to the summit.

Descent

Walk off
Descent - Easily walk off the backside backdown to the saddle in the ridge and your packs.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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