Regge Pole, Free Radical (5.12b, 7p)

Regge Pole

Route:

Free Radical

5.12b, 7p

A difficult but well-protected route up a thin spire across from the Incredible Hulk.

Region: California
Elev: 10,240+ ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): September 3, 2025 (Wed)
Partner(s): Lane Baldridge

Route Overlay

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Map

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Intro

Lane and I planned on two days of climbing. On day 1, Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b, 7p) on the Incredible Hulk. On day 2, Free Radical (5.12b, 7p) on Regge Pole on the other side of the valley. But it had rained hard the day before, and we arrived at the base of the Hulk to find it streaked with water. We looked across the valley at Regge Pole basking in the morning sun and decided to swap our itinerary.

The Regge Pole is the tallest and most striking of the Little Slide Spires. With sheer walls on three sides, it offers no moderate passage to its summit. Free Radical (5.12b, 7p) ascends the east face in a modern alpine style—well protected, approachable at the grade, and defined by bouldery cruxes. The line was established by Brandon Adams and Roger Putnam in 2023.

We climbed the route in fix-and-follow style, with Lane leading the first four pitches (1–4) and me taking the final three (5–7). The route includes four 5.12a/b pitches, which we found sustained, challenging, but well protected and enjoyable. Neither of us managed an onsight; I pulled through three of the four cruxes and found Pitch 5—one of the 5.12 pitches—particularly tough on lead. Lane did excellent work on his leads, and figured out the cruxes. Apart from the 5.12 cruxes, there was still plenty of quality 5.10–5.11 climbing on this route.

This page includes a route overlay, map, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos from our climb.

Time Stats

Times
Start hiking: 4:55 am
Base of Hulk: 7:18 am
Base of Regge Pole: 8:05 am
Start climbing Free Radical: 8:21 am
Summit: 12:37 pm
Base of Regge Pole: 1:10pm
Back at Trailhead: 3:31 pm
Splits
Approach: 2 hours 23 minutes (to base of Hulk)
Climb: 4 hours 16 minutes
Rappel route: ~30 minutes
Total car-to-car time: 10 hours 36 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Approach as per Hulk but stop early and scramble up talus leads to the base of this tower.

Pitch 1

5.10c, 100'
Climb a moderate ramp, then step right onto a clean face. Continue edging upward to the anchor.

Protection: 6 bolts and a couple of cams

Pitch 2

5.12b, 130' "Critical Mass"
Step left into the beautiful crack, which narrows to tips but stays offset through the crux, making for fun liebacking. Use knobs where you can and delicately power your way upward. Climb past the intermediate rappel anchor, then continue up the crack before traversing right to the belay.

Protection: 5 bolts plus gear.

Pitch 3

5.12a, 100' "Particle Accelerator"
Follow the seam to a mantle onto a dike stance. Continue up the corner, then break out along the roof traverse to reach an anchor on the arête.

Protection: 8 bolts and a single rack.

Pitch 4

5.12a, 100' "Quantum Leap"
Follow bolts and knobs left to a beautiful crack. Make a cruxy traverse left at the top to reach a ledge and anchor.

Protection: 4 bolts and gear.

Pitch 5

5.12a, 100' "Ow My Buckyballs"
This sport pitch weaves around the arête, following seams and edges for a fun, varied line.

Protection: 12 bolts.

Pitch 7

5.7, 60'
Chimney up to a ledge on the left, then ramble along easier terrain to the spectacular summit.

Protection: 1 bolt and a single rack.

Descent

Rappel
Descent: Seven single-rope (with 70m rope) rappels down the route. See topo for rappel locations. Not all belays are rappel stations and not all rappel stations are belays

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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