By the time of this trip I had climbed the four most popular routes on Mt. Russell:
Fishhook Arete (5.9, 700') (Aug '13),
Mithral Dihedral (5.9+, 700') (July '15),
Western Front (5.10+, 900') (July '15), and
East Ridge (3rd, 800') (as a downclimb, Aug'13 and July '15). All of these routes were great. The rock on Russell is some of the best alpine granite I've climbed. After learning that there were yet a couple of more established routes on Russell (namely,
Star Trekkin' and
Bloody Corner), I was itching to return to climb these routes.
Star Trekkin' ascends the mostly 5.9 crack splitting the face about 20' left of
Mithral Dihedral, and
Bloody Corner ascends the beautiful 5.10+ corner about 30' left of this (this corner is about half as deep as
Mithral, but perhaps even more splitter).
My friend Dow was also itching to climb
Star Trekkin' and
Bloody Corner, so when the latter half of August presented a super stable forecast across the Sierra (the only negative was that this dry weather was accompanied by a string of forest fires across the state), we headed into Russell for a couple of days. We climbed
Star Trekkin' (5.10-, 700') on the first day. Dow and I found this route to be a really fun and cruiser climb with lots of 5.9 crack climbing with a great position. The climb went quickly and we were standing on the summit after just a few hours. Great day. The main downside to this route is that it leaves you wanting more — we wished the route were about twice as long. After a quick descent down the South Gully, we stashed our gear at the base, and the next day we returned to climb
Bloody Corner (5.10+, 800').
Bloody Corner was definitely a step up in difficulty than the day before; we found the route to be pretty sustained at the 5.9+ to 5.10 grade, with a variety of good climbing, just a tad grainy and loose from lack of traffic. The splitter corner is superb and sustained. Dow and I felt like we earned our way to the summit on this route — just the kind of alpine adventure both of us relish, making Bloody Corner a contender for both of for favorite route on Russell. After enjoying the summit for the second day in a row, we slogged down, packed up camp, and hiked out, already discussing our next adventure....
Dow and I thought both
Star Trekkin' and
Bloody Corner were just as excellent as any other route on Russell. The following page gives a route overlay, pitch-by-pitch description, and photos for each of the climbs.
THIS TRIP REPORT IS STILL MOSTLY IN THE EMBEDDED HTML FORMAT OF MY OLD WEBSITE.