Trapezoid Peak, Rasta Root (5.12a/b, 5p)

Trapezoid Peak

Route:

Rasta Root

5.12a/b, 5 pitches

Another classic on Trapezoid. This route features an amazing 50m splitter fingercrack and a wild roof, both with 5.12- cruxes.

Region: California
Elev: 12,920 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): August 31, 2025 (Sun)
Partner(s): Brandon Adams

Route Overlay

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Map

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Intro

I had lined up a climb for Sunday, but plans shifted at the last minute. I had a couple of solo objectives in mind, but I still posted on Mountain Project to see if anyone was up for something. Brandon Adams had also just had a change of plans with his partner and came across my post. He reached out, and before long we had a plan: Rasta Root (5.12a/b, 5p) on Trapezoid Peak. I hadn’t known about this route beforehand, but it looked pretty cool, and Brandon was psyched to lead the two 5.12 pitches—so I was in. A few texts later, we had gear sorted and a morning meetup arranged. Psyched!

Trapezoid Peak is a striking vertical wall of green granite clearly visible as the next peak west of Mt. Goode on the Bishop Pass Trail. Its trapezoidal shape stands out on the skyline, with a sheer east face that basks in morning sun before shifting to shade in the afternoon.

In addition to its distinctive ridge traverse to the summit, Trapezoid hosts perhaps the highest concentration of quality hard multi-pitch trad climbs on a single formation in the range—second only to the Hulk.

The monolithic east face remained unclimbed until the summer of 2020, when three high-quality routes were put up on the smooth green granite of the wall. In the summer of 2022, four more routes were put up. This wall features some of the best rock and cleanest hard splitters in the Sierra. For accessibility, difficulty, and quality, these routes are hard to beat. Rasta Root is one of these lines—featuring an amazing 50m splitter fingercrack and a wild roof, both with 5.12- cruxes. The route has excellent belay ledges, all belays are bolted, and the route can be rappelled with a 70m rope.

Brandon took the sharp end on the first three pitches—the 5.11 and the two 5.12s—while I led the final two easier pitches to the summit. He earned the onsight, and I settled for the less-than-epic tronsight.

We decided that an adequate rack for this route would be: doubles from tips to 0.75 Camalot, with triples in the finger sizes. We never needed to place anything larger and we did not use nuts (although you could do both if you wanted).

The following page gives a route overlay, map, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb. Thanks Brandon for the awesome day in your backyard!

Time Stats

Times
Leave trailhead for Bishop Pass Trail: 6:05 am
Base of route: 8:27 am
Start climbing: 8:49 am
Top of route: 11:30 am
Summit: 11:35 am
Begin rappels: 11:50 am
Base of route: 12:10 pm
Back at Trailhead: 2:56 pm
Splits
Approach: 2 hours 22 minutes
Climb: 2 hours 41 minutes
Descent (rappels): 20 minutes
Total car-to-car time: 8 hours 51 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
From South Lake, follow the Bishop Pass trail past Long Lake, then head SW on faint paths to Margaret Lake. From the lake’s north side, contour west into the drainage right of the steep moraine. Easy slabs and grass lead ~1 mile until talus takes over. Angle up and right to a narrow talus drainage from the west; follow it ~¼ mile to the base. (~5 mi, 2,500 ft gain).

Climb: Begin below the long central splitter on Trapezoid’s face.

Pitch 2

5.12a, 45m
The Root Crack. Climb past two bolts to gain the splitter, then follow it for 40m (crux in the first 20m) to a belay ledge out right. Protection: 2 bolts, plentiful small–medium cams, and small–medium stoppers.

Pitch 3

5.12b, 35m
Rasta Roof.  An incredible pitch! From the belay, continue up the same splitter as Pitch 2 to the roof. Clip a couple of bolts to traverse right into a stunning white finger-crack corner. Follow this to the next roof, exit left, and finish up the steep face with big holds past two final bolts. 

Pitch 4

5.7, 15m
A short pitch. Climb the hand crack directly above the belay for 30 feet, then up the loose blocky ledges to the belay. 

Pitch 5

5.9, 25m
Climb the pink face directly up to the right-slanting roof, pull over its right side, then step left to the belay ledge. Protection: 5 bolts.

Note: we both broke off a hold (me a foothold, Brandon a handhold) on this pitch, so the rock is a bit friable, but the climbing is still quite good.

Descent

Rappel
Descent: Rappel with single 70. The rappel down P2 will not reach the top of P1 belay, but will reach another two-bolt anchor 25 feet to climber’s right of the route.

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