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Tuolumne/Yosemite Valley 2025: Deimos (5.9, 3p), Blues Riff (5.11b, 2-3p), Crescent Arch (5.9+, 5p), Cookie Cliff & El Cap Base & Public Sanitation Wall Cragging, Yosemite Falls + Yosemite Point Hike, …

xx Days in Tuolumne/Yosemite

Routes:

Tuolumne:
- Deimos (5.9, 3p), Phobos/Deimos Cliff
- Blues Riff (5.11b, 2-3p), Phobos/Deimos Cliff
- Crescent Arch (5.9++, 5p), Daff Dome

Yosemite:
- Cragging at Cookie Cliff: Outer Limits (5.10c, 2p), Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c, 1p), Beverly's Tower (5.10a, 1p)
- Yosemite Falls + Yosemite Point Hike (6.6 +1.8 miles, 3200 + 500 ft gain/loss)
- Cragging at El Cap base: Sacherer Cracker (5.10a, 1p), Mark of Art (5.11a, 1p), La Cosita Left (5.7, 1p)
- Center of the Universe (5.11-, 7p), Fifi Buttress
- Cragging at Public Sanitation Wall: Unknown But Splitter (5.11c, 1p), Big Easy (5.11d, 1p), Afterburner (5.11c, 1p)
- Snake Dike (5.7 R, 8p + 1000’ scrambling), Half Dome

A x-day x-route late spring climbing trip to Tuolumne/Yosemite.

Region: California
Elev: 9,000-10,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): May 29-June xx, 2025 (Thu-??)
Partner(s): Rob Dillon, Tucker Mihalik, Casey Flowe

Related trip reports:

Route Overlays

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Phobos, Blues Riff, Demos. Tuolumne.
Crescent Arch on Daff Dome. Tuolumne.
Cragging El Cap Base. Yosemite Valley.
Center of the Universe on Fifi Buttress. Yosemite Valley.
Snake Dike on Half Dome. Yosemite Valley.

Intro

TRIP REPORT IN PROGRESS

I was hoping to have landed a job by this point, but government funding changes of 2025 had led to a prolonged job search for me, so I was taking advantage of the time between applying for jobs to be on the road climbing. The current trip had begun with a week of sport climbing the conglomerate in Maple Canyon, Utah; followed by some desert towers in Moab (North Face (5.11, 3p) of Castleton Tower and Black Sabbath (5.11, 4p) on Sister Superior) and Colorado National Monument (Tom Stubbs Memorial Route (5.11, 4p) on Terra Tower); a day at Unaweep; a day hiking down to the Gunnison River in the Black Canyon; a couple of slot canyon adventures in the San Rafael Swell; and a Memorial Day weekend climbing steep limestone and clipping bolts in Rifle Canyon. During this time, I had reached out a contact in Moab named Rob Dillon (who I had climbed with once back in 2020) noting I was nearby and interested in desert climbing; he was otherwise occupied, but mentioned that he was planning to head to Tuolumne/Yosemite in late May/early June to visit friends and that I could join. The idea of climbing California granite began to grow on me, especially as desert temperatures crept into the high 80's. Next thing I knew I was driving to California to join the trip.

Tioga Pass had opened on Memorial Day (May 26), so we decided to go to Yosemite (Tuolumne and the Valley). It was still quite early in the season, so the "peak-hours reservations" system was not yet implemented for the season. We started in Tuolumne. But being early in the season also meant that there was still some snow in Tuolumne, making any north-side approaches or descents quite unappealing. And with the melting snow came the mosquitos. We climbed for two days there and then moved to the Valley, where Rob had friends he could stay with in El Portal. Rob and I cragged at places like Cookie Cliff, El Cap base, and Pubic Sanitation Wall. It was quite hot in the Valley, but the shade was tolerable. I began to get the itch to get on some multipitch and have some bigger days up high, so Rob gave me the go-ahead to try to find partners. I ended up climbing a handful of multipitch routes with various partners I mostly found on mountainproject, including Center of the Universe (5.11-, 7p), Snake Dike (5.7 R, 8p), ____. 

The following page gives photos from the climbs and my May/June 2025 trip to Tuolumne and the Valley.

Climbs We Did

CLICK ON ROUTE TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

Tuolumne

The previous year I had climbed Phobos (5.9, 3p) and loved it. I had wanted to climb its counterpart and the other namesake climb of this cliff, Deimos (5.9, 3p) but we had not fit it into the day. Plus, when climbing Phobos, I had noticed an amazing crack just right of it - Blues Riff (5.11b, 3p). I determined to come back and make a day of climbing both Demios and Blues Riff someday. A year later, I did.

Deimos is an excellent steep climb with a lot of hands/fists/OW crack. It has a bit of a reputation as being hard, burly, and with less than perfect protection. But Rob and I found none of these to be true. The climb is truly a bit atypical for Tuolumne, being more reminiscent of Valley crack climbs with lots of wideness and flares. But after the first 30 feet, the rock is excellent, there is pro wherever you want it, and the offwidth is pretty tame and easily stemmed or face-climbed around. The only negative is the walk-off.

I led the first pitch while Rob linked the second and third. We had an 80m rope (since our plan was to climb Blues Riff next where the 80 is handy), so Rob rappelled all the way back down the the base of the cliff with the gear, after which I dropped the rope to him and then did the walk-off while Rob shuttled the gear to the base of Blues Riff. The walk-off was a bit wet and I still couldn't figure out a way to avoid a bit of a 'schwack at the end of it to get back to the base of the cliff.

Next up: Blues Riff (5.11b, 2-3p).

Route Overlay

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Hiking up to the base of the cliff.
On the hike up, I slipped on a wet rock and scraped my shin. Ouch.
Looking up Phobos (5.9, 3p). I had climbed this route the previous year.
Looking up Deimos from the base of the route. We scrambled up around right to get on top of the boulders.
Rob flaking out rope at the base of the route on top of the boulders.

Pitch 1

5.9
Start of Pitch 1.
Higher on Pitch 1.
Gear belay in alcove.
Rob finishing off Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.9
Start of Pitch 2.
Rob starting up Pitch 2.
Rob starting up Pitch 2.
Fun climbing on Piitch 2.
The view out is not too shabby. Still some snow, but afterall it is still May.

Pitch 3

5.9
Pitch 3.
There is a bolt on Pitch 3 to protect a face/layback move.

Descent

Walk off
Walk off to west. Lower partner and drop rope and only one walks off?
At the top of the route.
I purchased a 100-pack of Tootsie pops at Walmart.
Cairns mark the walk-off.
Descend here.

The previous year I had climbed Phobos (5.9, 3p) and loved it. I had also noticed an amazing crack just right of it - Blues Riff (5.11b, 3p). I determined to come back and climb it someday. Tuolumne is not a destination for flawless crack climbs, but there are a few notable exceptions, Blues Riff being one of them. This pitch would be classic no matter where it would be. The crux is a brief section of steep fingercrack followed by several feet of awesome 5.10 handcrack on a giant flake.

From the top of the crux (second) pitch you can rappel the route with a single 80m rope or double ropes. The third pitch looks fun, but it is 5.9 and there is no anchor at the top of the route. Not wanting to do the walk-off for a second time that day, we opted to do just that. I led both pitches. I felt that the first pitch was quite sandbagged for 5.10c, but perhaps this is due to the rockfall that has made the first pitch a bit more friable and perhaps harder; the crux move is bolt-protected, but the bolt is off to the right when you are pulling a committing powerful move on friable rock, so it feels a bit spooky. Not liking the potential for a swinging fall, I aided through the crux and later toproped it (and still found it quite hard). The second pitch, though, was awesome and totally protectable. I got the onsight - the crux was quite short with locker finger-jams, and the rest was secure hand jamming. So fun! Rob took two toprope laps and I took another lap as well.

It was a great day of climbing, with some humping heavy packs uphill and some pulling hard, but pretty low stress on the climbing front with some excellent pitches of climbing. Pitch-by-pitch photos are below.

Route Overlay

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
For photos of the approach, see the photos from Deimos (5.9, 3p) above.

Pitch 1

5.10
Looking up from the base of the route. If you look closely you can see the bolt on Pitch 1.
Rob climbing Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.11b
Looking up Pitch 2.
Lookin down Pitch 2. The money pitch.
Rob climbing Pitch 2.
Higher.
Higher.
The view out is not too shabby. Still some snow, but afterall it is still May.

Pitch 3

5.9
Pitch 3. This pitch climbs the flake. This pitch looks fun as well. We just didn't want to do the wet walk-off again.

Descent

Rappel from top of P2 or Walk off from top of P3
Most climb only through the second pitch and then rap with double ropes.
Rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2 (the one at the top of Pitch 3 is bolts).
My scrape had oozed a bit throughout the day.
This marmot equated people with food.
View back up at the cliff on the hike out.
But it was nothing a little antibiotic ointment, bandaids, and tape can't fix.

The previous year I had climbed West Crack (5.9, 4p) on Daff Dome. It was fun, but I was intrigued by the giant right-facing corner to the right: Crescent Arch (5.9+, 5p), a classic Tuolumne route with a reputation for being a bit of a sandbag for a 5.9, with super polished slabby corner climbing. A year later I returned and climbed this route. I thought the route was superb, and also quite a step up from West Crack. 

Without much thought on pitch breakdown, I started up the route, ending up with the odd pitches. Pitches 2, 3, and 4 are the meat of the route, so this left Rob with the longest two of the 5.9 pitches and me with the shorter 5.9 pitch between. I kind of want to come back and do the route again, and lead the pitches I did not lead.

Below are pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb.

Route Overlay

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Carabiner sign marking the start of the Daff Dome approach.
Looking up the route. The route follows the obvious right-facing corner system.
This log was swarming with what I think are termites.
This log was swarming with what I think are termites.
Bug holes.
Not trusting myself to jump, I waded the creek.
Crossing the creek. There is a way to avoid this by walking up the road a bit and crossing the bridge.

Pitch 1

low 5th
Easy low 5th climbing on Pitch 1.
Gear belay at the top of Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.9
Looking up at the start of Pitch 2.
The awkward chimney at the start of Pitch 2.
The polished corner on the second half of Pitch 2.
Hangerless bolt at the belay ledge at the top of Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.9
The start of Pitch 3.
The glassy corner on the second half of Pitch 3.
The large belay ledge at the top of Pitch 3.
Rob following the glassy corner of Pitch 3.
Rob following the glassy corner of Pitch 3.
Rob resting his feet at the belay ledge before embarking on his lead of the next pitch.
The view. Not too shabby.

Pitch 4

5.9
Looking up at Pitch 4 from the nice belay ledge.
Rob starting up Pitch 4.
Rob further on Pitch 4.
Rob a few feet from the belay ledge at the top of Pitch 4.
We had brought a dozen slings. This turned out to not be quite enough for Pitch 4. So Rob improvised with the gear sling, his cordelette, and his prusik.
The view. Not too shabby.

Pitch 5

low 5th
Pitch 5. Easy 5th.
The final groove to the summit. We were unroped and in approach shoes for this.

Top

Enjoy the view!
On top!
On top!
The top of Daff Dome has the best view of the north side of Fairview Dome.
Mt. Conness.

Descent

Rappel + Scramble
Follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground, 1 rap with a 70m.
Descending to the rappels, which begin at a set of bolts just below the tree.
Rappelling.
On the walk off from Daff Dome. I think these are called 'Guide Cracks'.
Glacier polished rock on the flank of Daff Dome.
Walking off from Daff Dome.

The mosquito population had seemed to explode in Tuolumne in the few days we had been there, plus Rob's friends were in the Valley, so we headed to the sultry Valley for the weekend. On the drive from Tuolumne Meadows to the Valley, I stopped at the Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias. I did a ~2 mile hike down to the "Dead Giant" Tunnel Tree. The “Dead Giant” tunnel tree measures 120 feet in circumference. It was a 200-foot tall snag when the tunnel was cut in 1878. The owners of the Big Oak Flat Road (completed in 1875) thought being able to ride through the big tree would be good for tourism. So, they routed the road near the tree. Reference

Photos

The 'Dead Giant' Tunnel Tree.
The 'Dead Giant' Tunnel Tree.
Etchinngs inside the walls of the 'Dead Giant' Tunnel Tree..
Another Giant Sequoia.

Video

Left of West Crack. Blown Away is absolutely classic. Greg Barnes once told me that he named this climb "Blown Away" because of the high winds the FA team encountered on the arete of the final pitch, and also because that was their reaction to the fact that such a fine route could be found unclimbed in Tuolumne in 2002. 

Route Overlay

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

Pitch 1

5.9

Pitch 2

5.8

Pitch 3

5.9

Pitch 4

5.?

Pitch 5

5.?

Descent

Rappel + Scramble
Follow cairns to the east side of the dome. Big ledge with a tree. Chains on top of a huge block. 2 raps with a 60m to the ground, 1 rap with a 70m.

On the Lamb is a very unique and classic traverse across the upper face of Lamb Dome. Perhaps the only climb in Tuolumne where 95% of the holds are jugs. What makes it difficult is that occasionally the feet disappear. The feature appears to be an enormous horizontal dike that has split apart to form an incut crack.

I had climbed On the Lamb in 2015 on a week-long climbing trip to Tuolumne.

Route Overlay

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

Pitch 1

5.4

Pitch 2

5.8

Pitch 3

5.9

Pitch 4

5.8

Descent

Scramble
Scramble off backside. 

I arrived a bit early, so I spent theh day in Mammoth. I started the day with a 7 mile run. There is a great paved bike/run trail around town.
Free books at the Mammoth Lakes Library. My book collection in my car continues to grow....
I enjoyed half a day working at the Mammoth Lakes Library.
In Mammoth, I bought the new (as of 2024) Tuolumne guidebook by Robin Hirsch and Thomas Bukowski.
Try to buy gas in Nevada.
Still quite a bit of snow near Tioga Pass.
Tioga Pass entrance. It had opened on Memorial Day just 2 days before.
Still quite a bit of snow in Tuolumne. Hopefully this means fewer climbers. Or maybe just more concentration of climbers on south-facing routes...
We drove to Olmsted Point to check out the conditions of various routes. We decided we would need to avoid any north side approaches or descents.
This is where we camped on the first night.
Moring temperatures were in the low 40's. But it felt great in the sun.
I enjoyed sunny mornings and an open view of the northern sky (for my Starlink) from the Lembert Dome parking area.
Morning coffee.
My stuffed robin Batman doing a great job propping up my Starlink mini.
These picnic tables at the Lembert Dome parking lot have seen better days. (I hung out here in mornings and evenings due to early and morning sun.)
These picnic tables at the Lembert Dome parking lot have seen better days. (I hung out here in mornings and evenings due to early and morning sun.)
Another morning at the sunny Lembert Dome parking.
A morning run in Tuolumne. I went early before there was much traffic.
Watch out - the deer here don't look before bounding across the road.
Reading a book in the morning sun. The bugs have arrived so out with the bug spray...

Yosemite Valley

The mosquito population had seemed to explode in Tuolumne in the few days we had been there, plus Rob's friends Nick and John were in the Valley, so we headed to the sultry Valley for a bit.

May 31: On Saturday afternoon, we went cragging at The Cookie. The Cookie is a classic Yosemite crack area. It contains some of the world's best crack climbs. It was 90 degrees and the Cookie does not go into the shade until mid-afternoon, so we headed up around 3:30pm and climbed for a few hours. We had dunked ourselves in the Merced River before the hike up. I led the first two pitches of Outer Limits (5.10c, 3p) as a 40m megapitch (I almost greased off at the top from sweat, but managed to hang on and get the onsight). We had an 80m rope, so from that anchor we toproped Crack-a-Go-Go (5.11c PG13, 1p) (the start is the crux so we made sure to get out all rope stretch for the climber). Rob tred-pointed both pitches. I did a couple of laps of both. Both were excellent.

June 2: We returned a couple of days later for another afternoon session, after cragging that morning at El Cap base. The plan was to link Beverly's Tower (5.10a) and Wheat Thin (5.10c, 1p). Rob would lead the former and I would lead the latter. Rob kept up his end of the deal, leading the super fun Beverly's Tower (5.10a) and I started up Wheat Thin (5.10c) but got squeamish about the punchy flake lieback moves between spaced bolts and bailed. Darn it. It looked like a fun route! By the time we rapped down it was getting late so we decided to call it a day.

June 6: I had a job interview (via Zoom) in the morning, so this made for a good day to return to the Cookie for another late afternoon/evening of cragging.

Photos

Approach

2nd. Take a dip in the Merced River before heading up.
The Cookie Cliff.
Kind of hot to climb!
Cooling off in the Merced River before climbing.
I dunked my head.

Outer Limits

First two pitches as a single 40m lead: 10a, 10c
Looking up Outer Limits from the base of the route.
Looking up Outer Limits from the base of the route.
Steph leading Outer Limits.

Crack-a-Go-Go

5.11c PG13, 1p (toprope)
Crack-a-Go-Go.
Rob cruising up Crack-a-Go-Go.

Beverly's Tower

5.10a, 1p
Rob leading Beverly's Tower.
Nice exposure!
Pretty flowers. They sort of match the rope.
Looking up at Wheat Thin (5.10c). The plan had been to climb this as well, but I got squeamish at the punchy flake lieback moves between bolts and bailed. Darn it. It looked so fun.

Rob had been fighting a cold and wasn't feeling too great, plus it was pretty hot for climbing, so I snatched the opportunity to hike to the top of Yosemite Falls, something I had always wanted to do in the spring when the falls are raging. Not only is the Yosemite Falls Trail one of Yosemite's oldest historic trails (built 1873 to 1877), but the Yosemite Falls is one of North America’s tallest waterfalls, rising 2,425 feet above the Valley floor. The trail also offers spectacular views of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, and Sentinel Rock. The view from the overlook above the falls was fantastic. (Description of the hike on the nps website.)

After viewing Yosemite Falls, I decided to extend my hike east to Yosemite Point (adds about 2 miles and 500 ft gain/loss to the hike). Yosemite Point offers direct views of Half Dome and provides panoramic views of many other peaks. 

The round trip hike including Yosemite Falls and Yosemite Point took me about 4 hours and 15 minutes, including a couple of overlook stops. Temperatures were hitting 90 degrees in the Valley, so the hike down was quite hot, so I was glad I had started the hike somewhat early (7:30 am).

Below are some photos and video from this spectacular hike.

Video

Photos

Garmin watch track. Colored by elevation.
Start of Yosemite Falls hike.
Start of Yosemite Falls hike.
Footprints of hundreds of previous hikers.
Footprints of hundreds of previous hikers.
Yosemite Falls.
I was captivated by the smaller waterfall to the side.
Zoomed in on the top of Yosemite Falls.
Indian Paintbrush.
Thistle.
Yosemite Falls.
Yosemite Falls.
The trail to the top of the falls goes up the ravine to the left. This would be quite the 'schwack if the trail weren't here.
Side trail to the overlook looking down on the falls.
The river just above the falls.
Yosemite Falls from the overlook above it.
Yosemite Falls from the overlook above it.
Rainbow.
The exposed steps down to the overlook.
Tree growing out of the granite.
After all the effort of getting to the top of the falls, I decided to tack on Yosemite Point.
Pinecones.
Just above the falls.
Just above the falls.
Sign.
View from Yosemite Overlook.
View from Yosemite Overlook.
Big trees.
Yosemite Falls on the hike down.
Looking back up at the top of the falls. I think it is flowing even heavier than when I was here a few hours before.
Sign reminding hikers not to cut switchbacks.
Outhouses baking in the sun near the day parking near the Yosemite Lodge.
It was 90 degrees, so I cooled off in the river after the hike.
Yosemite Falls as seen from the park loop.
I spent the afternoon reading a bok in the shade by the river.
Yosemite's Cookies. I cannot resist buying every flavor of the gluten free versions every time I am in Yosemite. I also cannot resist just eating them all in one sitting.
It wouldn't be a proper Yosemite trip without stopping at Degnan's for a sandwich.
The roast beef (on gluten free bread) is my favorite.
They do make a good sandwich.
Some sort of 3D sculpture by the Village Store.

The base of El Capitan is home to numerous cragging classic climbs to cut your teeth on while gazing up at the enormous cliff above. [I had cragged at the base of El Capitan twice before. In 2017: La Cosita Right (5.9, 1p), La Cosita Left (5.7, 1p), Sacherer Cracker (5.10a, 1p), Moby Dick (5.10a, 1p). In 2018: First 2 pitches of The Nose (twice!), Pine Line (5.7, 1p), La Cosita Left (5.7, 1p), La Cosita Right (5.9, 1p), Little John Left (5.8, 1p).]

The daytime temperatures in the Valley were in the high 80's, so we wanted to climb before the sun hit the wall around 11:30am. The plan had been to meet around 7am, but Rob got suckered into breakfast with his friends, so I went on a run and we met at 8:30am. We climbed for a few hours. The goal was to climb Mark of Art (5.11a, 1p), a 150-foot lead to the right of Sacherer Cracker culminating in an incredibly sustained 1-2" corner. We decided to "warm up" on Sacherer Cracker (5.10a, 1p). I brought a #6 for Sacherer Cracker (5.10a, 1p), recalling how I had been uncomfortable in the upper offwidth in 2017. My lead went well until I hit the offwidth, and while the #6 safely protected it, it still necessitated climbing a few offwidth moves above the cam; I wimped out and Rob had to finish the lead (a #7 would have been nice to have to keep myself on toprope) and even on toprope I found the offwidth difficult. After this, we climbed Mark of Art (I led it and then we both toproped it once). By this time the wall was baking in the sun, so we quickly climbed La Cosita Left (5.7, 1p) -- left-facing so still in the shade -- and then hiked out. I drove to the Yosemite Village store to get some ice cream and yogurt.

In the late afternoon we headed to Cookie Cliff for evening session of climbing.

Route Overlay

Photos

Approach

2nd
El Capitan.

Sacherer Cracker

5.10a, 1p
Looking up the finger to hand crack that starts off Sacherer Cracker.
The wide hands crack on Sacherer Cracker.
The offwidth at the top of Sacherer Cracker. Bring at #6 and if you really don't want to make moves above a cam bring a #7 as well.
Looking down from anchor at top of Sacherer Cracker (5.10a). Mark of Art (5.11a) on left.
Steph leading Sacherer Cracker (5.10a).

Mark of Art

5.11a, 1p
The upper 5.11a corner of Mark of Art.
Looking down Mark of Art (5.11a).

La Cosita Left

5.7, 1p
La Cosita, Left (5.7) climbs the left side of the pillar.
Looking up La Cosita, Left (5.7). A super fun 5.7.
Rob on La Cosita, Left (5.7).

I had climbed Voyager (5.11c, 7p) on Fifi Buttress in October 2024 with Nate Beckwith and thought it was an excellent route. I wanted to someday climb Center of the Universe (5.11-, 7p), another comparable 5.11 on the far left side of Fifi Buttress, a touch easier than Voyager but equally high in quality. 

In June 2025, I was in Yosemite Valley cragging with my friend Rob Dillon for a bit, and while the cragging was a blast, I was getting the itch for multipitch, and getting a bit higher off the ground (and a bit further from the bugs and heat). Rob gave me the go-ahead to find a partner for a multipitch route or two. Tucker Mihalik had recently made a partner post on mountainproject; he was working in Yosemite and looking for partners on his days off. I replied to his post and within minutes we had plans to meet the next morning at 9am in the Bridalveil Fall parking lot and climb Center of the Universe (5.11-, 7p). 

Tucker and I had a blast. We thought that every single pitch of the route was super fun and protectable. We climbed in fix-and-follow style, and block lead, with Tucker leading the first four pitches of route up to the large midway ledge, and me leading the last three pitches of the route. This worked out quite well, and we were at the top in no time, wishing the route were longer (in fact, the route does go on to the top of the buttress, but the rest of the pitches are not as travelled and are mostly moderate with no more 5.11). 

On the hike out, we discussed plans for climbing again in a few days. When you're in a spectacular area and you find a good partner on the same page, you take advantage of it.

The following page gives overlay, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos for the climb. Enjoy!

Trip Report

I have a separate page for this trip report. Click here to go to my trip report for Center of the Universe (5.11-, 7p) on Fifi Buttress.
Route Overlay.
Tucker on the 5.11a splitter of Pitch 7. The money pitch.

Rob and I chose Public Sanitation Wall as a good cragging zone in the shade and above the bugs and heat of the Valley floor. This is a nice sport climbing area that is home to one pitch lines on featured, slightly overhanging granite. I had cragged at Public Sanitation Wall for a day the previous year, in October 2024, when we had climbed Afterburner (5.11c, 1p), Sanitary Engineer (5.10c, 1p), Unknown But Super Fun (5.11c, 1p). On this day, we climbed three pitches: Unknown but Splitter (5.11c, 1p), Big Easy (5.11d, 1p), and Afterburner (5.11c, 1p). I led all three, but used a stick-clip on a couple of bolts on each route on my lead. We then toproped each once or twice. After about 6 pitches each of steep sport climbing, the sun had arrived but we were ready to be done anyway.

Photos

Approach

2nd
Public Sanitation Wall
Honeysuckle.
Upper Yosemite Falls across the Valley.
Blowing in the wind.
Lower Yosemite Falls across the Valley.

Unknown but Splitter

5.11c, 1p, sport
Looking up the splitter.Basically a bolted crack, but it is nice not to sew up finger-locks with cams.
Rob toproping Unknown but Splitter (11c).

Big Easy

5.11d, 1p, sport
Rob toproping Big Easy (11d). The dihedral at the start and end were fun 5.10+ but the middle section was quite hard and reachy.

Afterburner

5.11c, 1p, sport
Rob toproing Afterburner. This is a great route. I'd like to go for a redpoint next time.

Snake Dike is one of the most classic Yosemite adventure climbs. This route climbs a wild dike feature on the southwest face of Half Dome. The climbing is notoriously runnout, but moderate. 

I had always wanted to climb this route, for the pure novelty. But even though moderate, the runnout on polished slabs intimidated me. But then I met Casey in Yosemite (I had replied to his mountainproject partner post) and he was psyched on the idea of Snake Dike. In fact, he had climbed it three times before. He was willing to do it a fourth time. Sweet.

It is a half-marathon type day with five thousand feet of elevation gain, so we decided to start hiking at 6am. When we arrived at the base of the route, there was another party starting up the first pitch. They were a party of three: a six-year-old girl, her dad, and his buddy. We waited a bit and then started climbing, but kept getting on their tail. They let us pass on Pitch 3 (they had accidentally traversed right to the wrong anchor at the top of the pitch, which worked out well for the pass). Casey led the first three pitches, after which I realized I had nothing to be intimidated about (while runnout--essentially, one bolt/anchor/cam every 100 feet-- the climbing felt secure and mostly 5.4 R with the 5.7 sections just off a bolt), and I started leading. Plus it was just pure fun juggy dike climbing, even more fun on the sharp end. We made quick time and were on the summit after a few hours. After a nice lunch break on the summit and chatting with the curious summit crowds ("You climbed up here?!"), we descended the Cables (this took awhile as there were several traffic jams) and hiked out. What a fun day!

Thanks Casey for joining me in this adventure!

Trip Report

I have a separate page for this trip report. Click here to go to my trip report for Snake Dike (5.7 R, 7p) on Half Dome.
Route Overlay for Snake Dike.

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Trip Report

I have a separate page for this trip report. Click here to go to my trip report for Book of Job (5.10b, 6p) on Higher Cathedral Rock.

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Trip Report

I have a separate page for this trip report. Click here to go to my trip report for Astroman (5.11c, 10p) on Washington Column.

I had climbed Steck Salathe (5.10b, 16p) in 2007, when I was efficiently rope-gunned to the top. We made great time. I'd always wanted to return and swing leads and create a better trip report.

Trip Report

I have a separate page for this trip report. Click here to go to my trip report for Astroman (5.11c, 10p) on Washington Column.

Morning run. Just go early before the cars own the roads.
Morning run - there are lots of paved pedestrian paths closer to the village and lodge.
Lupine along the road.
I've had a mouse in my car for about a week now. We have a somewhat symbiotic relationship. It eats my crumbs and junk food, leaving my car with fewer crumbs and me with healthy rice cakes and meat sticks. The mouse poop just sort of dries out and crumbles away. I'm thinking of naming him Mr. Bubbles because he has a particular liking to my bubble gum.

Previous and Next Adventures

Ding and Dang Slot Canyons, San Rafael Swell, UT

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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