Middle Cathedral Rock, Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9, 5p) (2024)

Middle Cathedral Rock

Route:

Central Pillar of Frenzy

5.9, 5 pitches

This five-pitch Yosemite classic was just as fun the fourth time.

Region: California
Elev: ~5,200 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): November 6, 2024 (Wed)
Partner(s): Nate Beckwith

Route Overlays

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Intro

Central Pillar of Frenzy is one of the most popular 5.9 crack climbs at Yosemite, offering excellent jamming with everything from fingers and stems to fist cracks and chimneys. Nate and I been in the Valley for a few weeks and had climbed numerous harder free routes (mostly 5.10 and 5.11 pitches with a few 5.12 pitches thrown in and rarely a pitch easier than 5.10-) . So the Central Pillar of Frenzy sounded like a fun change of pace for our last route together on the trip.

This was my fourth time climbing the Central Pillar of Frenzy. I had climbed it in 20072015, and 2017. I recall it feeling quite challenging. Nate had climbed only half of Central Pillar of Frenzy, in 1995 or so; he recalls not bringing enough big cams and spending so much time getting up the wide crack that they had to rappel down before it got dark. This time, the route felt easy and we were up and down in a few hours. As a change of pace to the theme of the trip (where Nate had been doing the leading), I lead the entire route, allowing Nate to enjoy a toprope for once.

Due to being midweek in November, we were the first party on the route. A party of three arrived about an hour after us. They ended up rapping in the dark (it gets dark early in November--sunset at 4:53 pm).

The following page gives pitch-by-pitch photos for our climb. It was fun. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Times
Start climbing: 9:17 am
Top of route: 11:58 am
Begin rappelling: 12:05 pm
Base of rappels: 12:30 pm
Splits
Approach: short
Climb route: 2 hours 41 minutes
Rappel: 25 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Descent

Six rappels to climbers’ left of route with a single 60.

First rap is a full 30m, go hard climbers left from the top of the 5th pitch to the higher and furthest left set of metolius rap hangers with chain. (Don’t go to the other set down and right of these without chain.) The rest are all straight down. 2nd rap is to a small stance. 3rd is to a ledge. 4th to another ledge. 5th is a short rap to a small stance and 6th is to the ground. Or can do in five rappels with a 70 if you rap over to the last pitch of Bircheff-Williams.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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