Now that I’ve climbed The Rostrum North Face (5.11c, 8 pitches) twice, one of the main routes still on my list is Astroman (5.11c, 10 pitches). Although it shares the same grade as the Rostrum, Astroman is known to be longer, more sustained, and burlier in every way—pitch after pitch of demanding, ultra–high-quality climbing on immaculate granite with a world-class view. Nearly every pitch would be a prize on its own if located at the base, and several would be outright mega-classics. If you don’t think this climb is great, either you’re being contrary or you need a new hobby.

Featuring every imaginable type of crack, Astroman is widely considered one of the finest routes at its grade anywhere. But it’s also tricky—the route bakes in direct sun until around 10:30 or 11 a.m., and the punishing, windless heat combined with the cruxes low on the route often lead parties to practice the first five pitches and return later for the full climb.

Those first five pitches are collectively known as Astroboy, which can be rappelled with a single 70m rope.

A couple of weeks into my fall 2025 Yosemite adventures, Astroman was still on the to-do list. I was intimidated by the route and didn’t feel quite ready to give it a full go. So, what better way to scope it out than to climb Astroboy? Brooke—who I had climbed Steck-Salathe with six days earlier—was an enthusiastic partner.

I led every pitch, and Brooke followed in fix-and-follow mode. Three parties were on the route—one ahead and one behind us, all doing Astroboy. I was especially psyched for the Enduro Corner, a pitch that felt destined to have my name on it. We topped out Astroboy with time and energy to spare. The party ahead of us had opted to skip the Harding Slot, leaving it open. Should we go for it? It seemed like too unique an experience to pass up. 

I decided to aid the strenuous, awkward 5.11c entry into the slot, then inch-wormed my way upward, slowly and with great effort, until I finally emerged from the top. Brooke, the most supportive and patient belayer I could ask for, chose to skip the slot, and we rappelled down. That slot was quite the experience—definitely memorable.

Someday, I’d love to return and climb the full Astroman.

I later learned that “Astrotween” refers to climbing Astroboy and then adding the Harding Slot.

This page includes an overlay, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos for Astroboy + Harding Slot.

By the time I was back to the car the evening of Astroboy, I was thinking of returning. I had to climb the full Astroman. Not long after I had posted my trip report, Sean Branch (who had seen the post on Instagram) reached out to ask if I’d be interested in climbing Astroman that coming weekend. You bet!

We climbed in fix-and-follow style. I led Pitches 1–4, and Sean took Pitch 5. A Scottish team (Rory and Murdo) was just ahead of us, and since the Harding Slot of Pitch 6 tends to be a bottleneck, we all ended up waiting there a while as Rory from their team valiantly led the Slot. With the short days and having led the Slot myself less than a week before, I was open to the idea of tagging our rope up and top-roping it after them. Sean went up the slot first, then me. It was definitely easier on toprope but still tough—I kept slipping at the entrance move, which none of us really figured out. The top felt even tighter than before, and I opted for the follower layback on the edge.

When I reached the top of the Slot, it was 2:30 p.m.—plenty of time to finish the route before dark, I thought! While getting past the Slot had energized me, it had the opposite effect on Sean, sapping him of the motivation to continue upward. (The Scottish team had also decided to head down.) I compromised by requesting a belay on a lead of Pitch 7 before we bailed, since the topo showed a bolted anchor there. (It turned out to be just a single bolt, so I left a bail biner and rapped from it.) From there I looked longingly upon the famous Changing Corners pitch—I will be back.

So, Astroboy + Harding Slot = "Astrotween". What is Astroboy + Harding Slot + Pitch 7 = "Astroteen"??

This page includes an overlay, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos for Astroboy + Harding Slot + Pitch 7.

Both John and I had already climbed Astroboy plus the Harding Slot twice (with other partners), so we decided to team up and climb the full Astroman all the way to the top. John asked if he could lead every pitch, and I was more than happy to enjoy the pure fun of toprope-soloing up Astroman. We climbed in fix-and-follow style and hauled a small pack with extra water, food, layers, and shoes.

It was one of those glorious Yosemite days—perfect weather, perfect rock, great partner, pure joy. We started at first light to be the first party on route and to give ourselves plenty of daylight for the top-out and descent. The first five pitches went by quickly (Astroboy in 2 hours 15 minutes). These were familiar and flowed easily; we linked P2+P3 and P4+P5 without issue. Then came the Harding Slot. John floated it in about 15 minutes. I enjoyed the steep cracks below the slot but couldn’t quite stick the entrance move—still the only move on the route I haven’t freed. Not wanting to burn time, and having done the Slot twice already in recent weeks, I jugged past it to the anchor. A third round in the Slot didn’t feel necessary—especially since John’s 8-minute Slot send (15 minutes on entire pitch) is not something I can match.

From there, we entered new terrain. For John, everything above was new; I had previously climbed only to Pitch 7. The upper pitches delivered in full. Pitch 7 is classic blue-collar crack climbing. We took a nice long break on the ledge at the top of this pitch to let the route go into the shade. The next pitch—the Changing Corners pitch—proved to be both the most demanding and the most spectacular: sustained 5.11 climbing with thin gear and technical, varied moves. John had a proud onsight. The final pitch (Pitch 10) lived up to its “10d R” reputation: thin gear and committing moves above pieces you didn’t quite trust. Definitely not a pitch you’d want to do in the dark. We topped out at 2:25 p.m., well before sunset, and with plenty of time to hike out before dark.

There were a few other parties on route, all behind us due to our early start. The party directly behind us (by a couple of pitches) was also climbing the full Astroman while everyone else seemed to be just climbing on the Astroboy pitches.

What a marvelous day. I’d repeat this route again and again. The only move I haven’t freed is the Harding Slot entrance, which I’d call the crux. John said his crux (which he appeared to float) was the 5.11a mantle starting the Changing Corners pitch. 

Below are time stats, photos, and video from this amazing day in the Valley!