Higher Cathedral Rock, Book of Job (5.10, 6p)

Higher Cathedral Rock

Route:

Book of Job

5.10, 6p

One of the 5.10 OW testpieces of the Valley.

Region: California
Elev: ~6,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): June 7, 2025 (Sat)
Partner(s): Rob Dillon

Related trip reports:

Route Overlay

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Intro

Nextdoor to the popular Braille Book (5.8+, 6p) (which I had climbed in 2005 and again in 2017) is a route called Book of Job (5.10b, 6p). Book of Job is a burley and sustained, mostly thin hands-to-wide, crack system. The wide ranges from fists to squeeze chimneys to chimneys. Before beta became so accessible, plenty of parties have started up this route thinking they are on Braille Book. This route stays in the shade all day, so it is a good hot day route.

Rob and I had been doing mostly single-pitch cragging together (he has started the trip with a cold and needed to kick it); we had two days of our trip together left, so we decided to climb a couple of multipitch routes. One of these was the Book of Job. Being currently based in Moab, Rob seems to like wide, and I am always up for an athletic challenge. The route delivered. Pitch after pitch of featured and interesting crack, with some wild well-protected moves. Despite being "only" 5.10 crack, the route was quite challenging, Pitches 2 and 3 in particular. Rob did a great job leading the sustained #3-#5-sized crack of Pitch 2, whereas I struggled with the chimneys and squeezes of Pitch 3, detoured to some heads-up hard face in an effort to avoid a squeeze, and to top off the episode of gumbie goes offwidthing I got a #5 cam stuck high on the pitch (fortunately Rob managed to get the cam out). At the top, we scrambled to the summit to enjoy the 360-degree views of the Valley. We seemed almost level with the top of El Cap. Then we hiked down the long but beautiful descent. 

The following page gives pitch-by-pitch photos for the climb. A great full day of Valley adventure!

Gear

Here is the rack we brought:
#6-1 (mainly for Pitch 3 pulling the "wild" roof, and it was nice to have),
#5-1 (nice to have a few times on the route),
#4-2 (nice to have two for Pitch 2, but never needed two for any other pitch),
#3-3 (nice to have three for Pitch 2, but could have probably gotten away with two),
#2-3 (could have probably gotten away with two - this is really the only adjustment I would make to the rack we brought),
#1-2,
#.75-2,
#.5-2,
#.4-2,
#.3-2,
#.2-1,
#.1-1,
Set of offset nuts,
8 24" Slings + 4 quickdraws

Time Stats

Times
Leave Car: 8:05 am
Arrive at base of route: 9:20 am
Start climbing: 9:48 am
Top of route: 3:31 pm
Summit of Higher Cathedral Rock: 4:15 pm
Begin descent: 4:45 pm
Arrive back at Car: 6:30 pm
Splits
Approach: 1:15
Climb route (2:15 for both of us to get through Pitch 3 and get cam unstuck): 5:43
Descent from top of route (includes picking up packs at base of route): 1:45

Car-to-car: 10:25

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

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