The East Buttress of El Capitan is one of Yosemite’s finest long 5.10s, offering the added thrill of climbing on El Capitan itself. While it’s fair to say this isn’t truly “climbing El Capitan” in the full big-wall sense, it still counts for being on the Captain at least. The route features superb golden granite, knobby holds, and a satisfying mix of steep cruxes and easier, low-angled pitches. Though graded IV, the rating reflects the long approach and descent, occasional route-finding puzzles, and potential crowds more than sustained difficulty. Efficient parties often complete it in half a day. Because it’s a popular climb, an early start is recommended—or, if you’re confident in your speed, a midday start can help you avoid the morning rush. For an extra challenge, consider starting with the four-pitch Moratorium approach.

I first climbed the East Buttress in 2016. When I was searching for a classic moderate to revisit this season—and realized I’d already done nearly all of them—this route rose to the top of the list. Nate had climbed it once before as well, sometime around 2007, but was down to climb it again.

It was also the first day I’d been free of the intense headache that had lingered since a lead fall on The Nose the previous week. My usual energy and enthusiasm had returned in full force.

Nate and I swung leads. There were five parties total on the route—two ahead and two behind—but everyone moved efficiently, and aside from a 50-minute wait at the base, there were no traffic jams. The climbing was even better than I remembered, with plenty of high-quality pitches and only brief stretches of scrambling. The position and views were spectacular.

This page includes pitch-by-pitch photos from the climb.