Royal Arches Area (Royal Arches, 5.7 A0, 16p, simul) to North Dome (Crest Jewel Direct, 5.10d, 14p)

Royal Arches to North Dome

Routes:

- Royal Arches Area, Royal Arches (5.7 A0, 16p)
- North Dome, Crest Jewel Direct (5.10d, 14p)

A great link-up high above the Valley floor.

Region: California
Elev: 7,546 ft (top of North Dome)
Rock: Granite
Mode: 
Date(s): October 12, 2025 (Sun)
Partner(s): Nate Beckwith

Route Overlay

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Map / GPS Track

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Garmin Watch GPS Track (my watch died just before we hit the trail on the descent)

Intro

A fine, athletic day high above Yosemite Valley is the Royal Arches to Crest Jewel link-up—something I’d had on my to-climb list for years. I finally got around to doing it in October 2025 with Nate Beckwith.

I had last climbed Royal Arches twenty years earlier, in December 2005—it was one of my first multipitch climbs. I’d never been up North Dome. Nate had done both, but not in thirty years, and he’d never climbed the 5-pitch 5.10d Crest Jewel direct start.

The link-up covers a lot of terrain: Royal Arches is 16 pitches when pitched out, and Crest Jewel Direct (i.e. with the direct start) adds 14 more—for roughly 30 pitches in a day. We simulclimbed Royal Arches in a few long blocks, cutting the pitch count considerably. The hike between the two climbs is scenic, and the summit of North Dome offers some of Yosemite’s most stunning views. The descent back to the Valley, though long and tedious—especially after a full day—felt like a small price to pay.

I led all of Royal Arches except for one intermediate pitch as a few simulclimbed pitches; Nate took the 5-pitch direct start to Crest Jewel, including the day’s 5.10d crux; and I led the remaining nine pitches (sustained 5.8-5.10a slab). Crest Jewel is fully bolted but notoriously runout—often 30+ feet between bolts—on insecure slab. I was proud of my leads, since bold face climbing isn’t my forte; I'm much more comfortable in a crack. To make things more interesting, my back began spasming on the second 10a crux pitch. I’d taken my all-time biggest whipper the day before on El Capitan and tweaked a muscle in my back, and by then my morning overdose of codeine and ibuprofen had worn off. Still, I managed to climb through it. Nate, as always, cruised through his leads and offered patient, encouraging belays.

It was a glorious day high above Yosemite Valley—15 hours car to car. Huge thanks to Nate for being such a solid and enjoyable partner, as always!

This page includes an overlay, time stats, and photos from the day.

Time Stats

Times
Leave Church Bowl Parking: 6:30 am
Arrive at base of Royal Arches: 6:40 am
Start climbing: 6:53 am
Top of Royal Arches: 9:34 am
Arrive at base of Crest Jewel Direct: 10:44 am
Start climbing Crest Jewel Direct: 10:59 pm
Top of Crest Jewel: 5:25 pm
Top of North Dome: 5:49 pm
Church Bowl Parking: 9:30 pm
Splits
Approach to Royal Arches: 10 minutes
Climb Royal Arches: 2 hours 41 minutes
Hike from top of Royal Arches to base of Crest Jewel Direct: 1 hour 10 minutes
Climb Crest Jewel Direct: 6 hours 26 minutes
Descend from top of North Dome to car: 3 hours 41 minutes

Car-to-car: 15 hours

The Two Climbs

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Intro

Royal Arches is widely regarded as one of Yosemite’s classic routes. Commonly climbed at 5.7 A0 using a fixed line for a short point of aid, it also goes free at 5.10-. Although the route meanders up an impressive sweep of rock at a moderate grade, there are arguably more aesthetic climbs of similar difficulty. Its “classic” status likely stems from a mix of factors—the historical significance of its 1936 first ascent, the easy approach and accessible grade, and the fact that it’s the most efficient way to reach North Dome. Whatever the reason, it’s a popular climb—don’t expect solitude.

The route is traditionally divided into 16 pitches, but we simulclimbed it. The route took us 2 hours and 41 minutes base to top.

Photos

Approach

2nd
Approach Royal Arches from the Church Bowl or Ahwahnee parking lot. The trail is marked with a carabiner sign.

Hike over to North Dome

2nd
Hike climbers' right over to North Dome. See description in the approach for North Dome below.
See photos in the approach for North Dome below.

Intro

North Dome—with its mix of beautiful cracks and long stretches of perfectly smooth granite—offers a rare taste of high-country climbing right in the heart of Yosemite Valley. It’s alpine, moderate-route bliss! But there’s no easy way to get there. Most climbers reach it by simul-climbing Royal Arches. Otherwise, it’s the North Dome Gully approach—an endless grind of steep, sandy hiking—or an approach from Porcupine Flat off Highway 120, which is mostly downhill for nearly five miles before a bit of bushwhacking and scrambling to the base. However you reach it, the views of the Valley are incredible.

Crest Jewel is one of the finest slab climbs anywhere. The granite is flawless, the setting sublime—you’ll remember this route for years. The regular line starts about one-third of the way up the dome, while the five-pitch Direct begins at the high point of a talus field up and left from the saddle behind Washington Column. You’ll only need about a dozen draws, but don’t expect sport bolting—this is classic Yosemite slab. The route bakes in the sun all day and can shift from scorching to windy and chilly depending on the season.

The 14-pitch route took us 6 hours and 26 minutes base to top.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Follow cairns and worn rock across the open slabs, heading generally right and upward at a gentle grade with incredible views of the Valley below.

For South Face and regular Crest Jewel, after the first large open-slab section, continue upward where the slab meets the talus and brushy hillside. Expect 30–45 minutes of steep, grueling uphill trudging to reach a broad shelf where both routes begin.

For Crest Jewel Direct, continue traversing gently across another section of open slab, then hike gradually through the forest until the trail steepens. Ascend to the saddle at the summit of Washington Column, then head up and left toward open white talus. The route starts at the highest point of the talus, just left of a right-facing corner and a massive roof.

Pitch 1

Standard Route
5.9, 40 feet
No photos. We did not climb this pitch since we did the Direct Start to the route, which joins the standard route at the top of Pitch 1 of the standard route.

Pitch 4

Standard Route
5.8

Descent

Hike + North Dome Gully descent or Royal Arches Rappel Route
Hike down along skiers' right of North Dome. Either continue walking off via the North Dome Gully descent or find the Royal Arches Rappel Route (10 raps with a single 60).

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