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Arrowhead, Ripsaw (5.7-5.9, 4-8p)

Arrowhead

Route:

Ripsaw

5.7-5.9, 4-8p

A ridge adventure with okay climbing and spectacular position.

Region: Colorado
Elev: 12,660 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): June 20, 2021 (Sun)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Related trip reports:

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Intro

Ripsaw ascends the complete Northeast Ridge from the shoulder above Solitude Lake to the summit of Arrowhead. Nate and I thought this route was so-so with some nice stretches of climbing mixed with unmemorable 4th class. With simul-climbing we climbed the route in 4 roped pitches. I also somehow missed the 5.9 finger crack of Pitch 3 (I accidentally climbed right around the First Tower) so the route docked down to about 5.7. But the views are spectacular, there are no crowds, and it's a nice round tour of Arrowhead.

At the writing of this trip report, Ripsaw is the sixth route I have done on Arrowhead and certainly not the last.

The following page provides a trip report for the adventure. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Glacier Gorge Trailhead to base of route: 2 hours 37 minutes
Climb route to summit: 4* hours (*includes about a 1 hour pause to check out the steep walls of granite above Ledge One)
Descend South Ramp and hike back to trailhead: 3 hours 8 minutes
Total car-to-car (includes breaks and exploration): 10 hours

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Hike the Glacier Gorge Trail and take the path up to Solitude Lake. Hike talus to a high point on the shoulder of the Northeast Ridge.
Lots of work for the trail crew this year.
Glacier Gorge gets its fair share of downed trees due to winter winds. As this photo shows, the roots are shallow due to the slabby bedrock.
Crossing the creek just after we cut off the main trail and headed up towards Solitude Lake.
Nearing Solitude Lake.
View of Arrowhead on approach.
Solitude Lake.

Pitches 1&2

5.7 & 5.5 
PITCH 1: 5.7. Friction up a beautiful slab to where it fades into a narrow dihedral. Go up and right and belay on a good ledge.
PITCH 2: 5.5. Go up and left to a big sloping ledge beneath a steep wall with a conspicuous finger crack.

(We simulclimbed.)
Looking up Pitch 1 from the base of the route.
Pitch 2 terrain. First Tower described for Pitch 3 seen above.

Pitch 3

5.9
Climb the finger crack to a short of notch, then go straight up to the top of the First Tower and belay.

(We somehow missed this pitch by climbing right of the tower as part of the Pitches 1&2 simulclimb. Darn it!)
The First Tower can be seen above. The finger crack climbs this tower.
Looking back at First Tower. The fingercrack is on the other side. You downclimb this side at the start of Pitch 4.

Pitches 4-6

5.6, 5.7, 4th 
PITCH 4: 5.6. Downclimb into a notch, then climb to a ledge at the base of a nice hand crack.
PITCH 5: 5.7. Jam the hand crack to a step in the ridge, and climb a finger crack to the top of another pinnacle.
PITCH 6: 4th. Scramble to the top of the Second Tower.
RAPPEL: Rap 80 feet to a big notch in the Northeast Ridge.

(We simulclimbed.)
Looking back at First Tower. Downclimb this side at the start of Pitch 4.
Notch described in the Pitch 4 description.
Second half of Pitch 4.
The steep handcrack of Pitch 5. This was fun 5.7 climbing.
Above the handcrack on Pitch 5.
Nate belaying at the top of Pitch 6.
The rappel anchor just past the top of Pitch 6.

Pitch 7

4th
Climb up through some blocky DNF terrain. Belay at a spot on the right side of Ledge One.

(There is some looseness so probably a good idea to stay roped up for this pitch.)
Jumbled terrain of Pitch 7, as seen from the rappel just after Pitch 6. We climbed left of center to start off, and then moved up the center of the photo.
Blocky terrain on Pitch 7. This was a bit wet and loose so felt a bit harder than 4th. Probably a good idea to rope up.
Blocky terrain higher on Pitch 7. This was easier than the start of the pitch.
Looking along Ledge One with granite walls of Arrowhead towering above. Chiefs Head in distance.

Pitch 8

5.6
Climb the exposed and featured arete to where the angle eases.

(This was our favorite pitch of the route.)
Looking at the start of Pitch 8.

Scramble to Top

3rd
Scramble west quite a long ways to the summit of Arrowhead. Stay right of the crest. 
Approaching the summit spires.

Descent

3rd/4th
Scramble down the South Ramp (4th) to Black Lake or the Regular Route (3rd) back to Solitude Lake.

(We scrambled down the South Ramp.)
Beginning the descent down the South Ramp (4th). McHenrys in distance.
The 4th class section.
Scrambling around the shoulder of Arrowhead.
A snowfield on the descent.
Back at the every-crowded Bear Lake Parking Lot.

Previous and Next Adventures

The Crags cragging, CO
Mt. Evans Black Wall (Good Evans), CO

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