Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: May 13, 2024 (Mon); Partner: Linn Kelley
Route Overlays
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Intro
Newberry's Delight linked with Maiden Voyage is a nice 8-pitch 5.9 Grade III day of climbing in the Black. The route's best pitch is the first: a beautiful 5.9 hands-to-fists splitter. Linn and I climbed this route as part of an 11-pitch 3-route linkup of Newberry's Delight, Maiden Voyage, and King Me. It had rained heavily the evening before, so all of the routes had some wetness, but it just made it feel a bit more alpine.
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
Descend the Cruise Gully, which involves scrambling and two rappels (fixed lines in 2024). Shortly after the second rappel, the gully opens up. Scramble down and right between North Chasm View wall and Newberry's Slabs buttress. The route starts at a prominent splitter below the ramp system on the upper portion of the formation.
Pitch 1
5.9
Climb the hand-fist crack, eventually entering a chimney. At a roof above, traverse left across a slab and belay on a ledge.
Pitch 2
5.9
Move up and left through broken crack and face climbing to reach a ledge. Move right and located a short, left-leaning finger crack that leads to another ledge. Move right onto slabs, ending at a stance below a left-leaning finger-to-handcrack. This is a rope-stretching pitch.
Pitches 3&4
5.7
Climb the crack to easier slabs above, trending up and left to a large ledge and other hand crack. Pitches 3&4 can be linked for a 70m pitch.
Descent
Routes on Newberry's Slabs require a linkup with another climb to reach the rim (unless you want to ascend Cruise Gully). A great 11-pitch 5.9 link-up is Newberry's Delight to Maiden Voyage to King Me (which is what we did).
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