North Chasm View Wall Main Page

North Chasm View Wall

Routes:

- Moveable-Stoned-Voyage (5.10+, 9p)
- The Cruise (5.10+, 10p)
- Scenic Cruise (5.10+, 10p)
- Journey Home (5.10, 6p)
- A Midsummer Night's Dream (5.11-, 6p)
- Leisure-Summer (5.9+, 6p)

Region: Colorado
Elev: 6,000-7,000 ft
Rock type: Gneiss
Type: 
Date(s): various
Partner(s): various

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on North Chasm View Wall.

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I have climbed in the North Chasm View Wall area. Trip reports for these routes are on this page.

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Climbs I've Done

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Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: May 18, 2024 (Sat);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route Overlays

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Intro

This route climbs Plunge Pillar, combining Moveable Feast with the exit pitches of Stoned Oven. Although this route lacks the consistent quality to be considered a classic, the climbing is fun and strenuous, with incredible position on North Chasm's main face. Highlights are the improbable traverse on Pitch 3, the crux 5.10+ undercling on Pitch 7, and the wild Womb Fight exit. Nate and I thought this was a fun adventure route, with great position, a few great sections of climbing, a moderate amount of choss, and a memorable belly crawl to the finish. The approach to the base of the route took us just under 2 hours and our camp to camp time was just under 9 hours.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Descend the Cruise Gully to the prow of North Chasm, then walk downstream below the expansive SW Face. Follow the path of least resistance through the maze of scree, bushes, and poison ivy. A house-sized boulder marks the mouth of the "approach gully" to Plunge Pillar. Hike uphill to this gully. Continue up and right, climbing an additional 300-400' of exposed 4th class terrain to a large terrace above. Approach time: 1 hour and 50 minutes.

Pitch 1

5.8
Climb a bushy crack and belay on a ledge above.

Pitch 2

5.10
An easy hand crack leads to a left-angling ramp. At a larger ledge above, locate a thin crack on the face. Climb this crack to a short 5.10 bulge, then trend left past a slung flake. Belay at a semi-hanging stance in a right-facing corner system.

Pitch 3

5.9
Continue up the hands corner for approximately 30 feet until it turns into fist-sized. Place a high #4 and make an improbable traverse (hard-right and slightly down) along an inconspicuous weakness of flakes. This wild 5.9 traverse eventually gains another crack system. Belay at the base of a thin, grungy corner.

Pitch 4

5.9 PG13
 Climb the dirty corner, moving up and right into a groove. Tiptoe around some loose blocks and finish on a steeper section of pegmatite.

Pitch 5

5.9
Move around the corner and follow a quartz weakness. More climbing through loose blocks eventually leads to a large chockstone. Make some awkward 5.9 moves into a bombay chimney and belay on a small ledge above.

Pitch 6

5.easy
Chossy terrain leads to the obvious chimney/exit gully behind Plunge Pillar. This is the finish for A Moveable Feast. For Moveable-Stoned-Voyage, traverse right to gain Stoned Oven Ledge.

Pitch 7

5.10+
Stoned Oven Pitch 9
Start up a peg groove on the right side of the ledge, eventually moving back left along a 5.10+ undercling. A sustained 5.10 thin hands crack ends at a short 5.11 or A0 move at a bolt. Bust right and belay 10 feet above a sloping stance.

Pitch 8

5.9
Stoned Oven Pitch 10
An airy step across the gap accesses a splitter hand/finger crack. Follow this through some peg and belay at a ledge above.

Pitch 9

5.8
Stoned Oven Pitch 11
Womb Fight. Follow the horizontal groove right and continue up a 5.8 slab. Follow the path of least resistance to the rim.

Top out

A 5th class move or two (depending on where you belayed) and a bit of 4th to the top. Top out on rim and walk back to your campsite or car.

Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: May 25, 2022 (Wed);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route Overlays

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Intro

The Cruise shares 7 of its 10 pitches with Scenic Cruise. The first pitch is the same, but Pitches 2-4 go straight up rather than right onto the Scenic Cruise. Although The Cruise does not see nearly the traffic of the Scenic Cruise, it is every bit as good, and tackles a wider variety of climbing, from demanding offwidth to thin stemming. For this reason, The Cruise may be the quintessential 5.10 testpiece in the Black, requiring climbers to dig deep into their bag of tricks throughout a long day on the wall. The Cruise can be a good option for stronger parties to bypass slower groups in the morning (if they bring the big cams).

With Nate in the lead, we cruised up the route in just under 6 hours from base to top (7 hours camp to camp). We were relaxing in the warm sun reading books by 2pm, and did so for the rest of the afternoon. Along with the Scenic Cruise, The Cruise is one of the best 5.10 routes I’ve climbed. Awesome job leading this entire route, Nate.

(I also have climbed the Scenic Cruise twice. See the trip reports for these climbs for even more photos of The Cruise.)

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Descend Cruise Gully (scrambling + 2 fixed raps) until about 500 feet above the river. Start in the prominent, right-facing corner system. Approach: ~ 1 hour.

Pitch 1

5.8
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
Climb the dihedral to the terrace.

Pitch 2

5.9
Move up and slightly left to access a 5.9 hand crack leading into the prominent crack/corner above (the left of two parallel crack systems). Belay at a chockstone below a squeeze/offwidth.

Pitch 3

5.10+
Tackle the 5.10 squeeze chimney as it slowly tapers to a 5.10+ offwidth. A burley but well-protected pitch (if you have a #4 and #5). Exit onto a ledge below a thin, left-facing corner.

Pitch 4

5.10+ (5.9 R)
Stem up the thin 5.10+ dihedral to a stance at a pegmatite band. An ancient bolt inspires little confidence in the runnout 5.9 face climbing above. It is possible to veer left onto steeper, but better protected 5.9 climbing. End on a prominent ledge. The route rejoins Scenic Cruise here. This is an excellent pitch.

Pitch 5

5.10+
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
This is the crux pitch of Scenic Cruise and one of the crux pitches of The Cruise. It is a challenging and great pitch. Climb up the corner, through the steep 5.10+ crux, eventually moving right under the roof to a 5.9 hand crack. A short section of offwidth leads to a narrow ledge. This ledge was in the shade and an awesome place to belay. Save a big cam (#4 is better than #3) for the final wide stretch.

Pitch 6

5.8
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
Climb the hand crack above the ledge, eventually exiting onto easy slabs. Move left and belay at any number of stances beneath the massive flake feature above. Although the topo mentions you can possibly link Pitches 6+7 with a 70m rope, it also notes the potential for rope drag if you do so. The rope drag is real, even with my minimal and thoughtful gear placements. But linking the first half of Pitch 7 into Pitch 6 seemed to work well and had a comfortable shady belay spot. This straightforward and moderate pitch is a nice break from the sustained pitches leading up to it.

Pitch 7

5.8
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
Continue moving up along the left side of a pillar, upwards, and chimney behind a large flake. Belay at the only bolted anchor on the route. This was a short pitch for us since we had linked the first half into Pitch 6.

Pitch 8

5.9+
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
Traverse hard right along a ledge system, and then move up and right through face moves (two bolts, with a few 5.9 moves above the bolts, mental crux of route perhaps). Continue up and right to a stance below a corner/bulge. Belay here or climb through the bulge and up the corner.

Pitch 9

5.9+
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
Make an airy traverse hard left on flakes to gain a corner/crack system. The rock is rather slippery so feels a bit insecure for the grade. Climb up as far as you can, ideally to a sloping stance below a final steep section.

Pitch 10

5.9
Shares w/ Scenic Cruise
Climb up the steep section, then follow easier cracks above to easier terrain. Climb all the way to the terrace and belay at an obvious tree.

Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: September 21, 2019 (Sat);  Partner: Natalie Huey
Date: May 19, 2021 (Wed);  Partner: Michael Underwood

Route Overlay

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Intro

The Scenic Cruise is one of the most popular routes in the Black and one of the best routes of its grade in Colorado. The pitches are long and sustained, and the climbing is awesome and the rock great throughout. The Scenic Cruise is actually a 4-pitch variation to The Cruise, while the other 6 pitches on the route are shared with The Cruise. But most people just mean the full 10-pitch route when they mention "Scenic Cruise".

September 2019: The Scenic Cruise had been on my list for quite awhile. My Washington friend Doug and I had tried to climb when we passed through the Black in July 2019 on a cooler/cloudier streak of summer weather, but we had bailed at the top of the first pitch when it started to sprinkle rain. So Scenic Cruise was high on my list for the Fall, once temperatures began to cool off. So in late September after a couple of chilly weekends on the Diamond, I proposed the idea of climbing Scenic Cruise to my new climbing friend Natalie, and she was game. We made the 5 hour drive from Boulder to the Black on Friday evening, climbed the route on Saturday, and drove back to Boulder Saturday night, arriving back just after midnight. It would have been nice to stay for two days, but I had to split my weekend between climbing and homework. It was great to tick off this route at the beginning of the season and before it got crowded. I hope to make time to return to the Black for some more routes this fall.

May 2020: A year and a half later, in the Spring, I climbed the Scenic Cruise again with my friend Michael. Daytime high was 73°, so temperatures were reasonable on the route. The route was even better the second time, and went a bit quicker than my first time, although it was still just as challenging. I'll be back again I'm sure!

May 2022: I climbed The Cruise with Nate. The Cruise shares 7 pitches with the Scenic Cruise. See The Cruise trip report for details.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 1

5.8
Shares w/ The Cruise
Climb the dihedral to the terrace.

Pitch 3

5.10+
Prepare for a pretty awesome 60m pitch of climbing. This pitch is the first of the two most physically-demanding pitches on the route, but the gear is great so its not the mental crux of the route. Conserve your gear though. Start off by stemming through a short section of .9+ and then launch into a section of .10+ fingers/laybacking followed by a lengthy .10 hand crack. Belay at a stance in the peg band.

Pitch 4

5.9+ (R)
 For me, this pitch was the mental crux of the route. Climb up and left along the peg band up to a horn. It's a pretty good horn, but the next few moves will be taking you left and then above the horn, so I used a tip from my friend Dow and clipped my water bottle and shoes to give me a bit more reassurance it would hold in place. The next part was the crux and took me some time to mentally commit to it. You have to move up a slippery pegmatite hand rail with no pro facing a pretty unpleasant and possibly a bit dangerous fall/swing. The moves are probably 5.9 or so. Envisioning rapping off the horn and the walk of shame up the Cruise Gully was enough to get me to go for it. After this, it was pretty easy climbing up and then left to the base of the corner system that is back on The Cruise route. The second time I climbed this route, Michael led this pitch, and I took Pitch 5 instead.

Pitch 5

5.10+
Shares w/ The Cruise
Prepare for another awesome pitch of climbing (well they are all awesome, but this one particularly so). This pitch is the second of the two most physically-demanding pitches on the route, but again the gear is great so I would have much preferred to lead this pitch than the previous. Climb up the corner, through the steep 5.10+ crux, eventually moving right under the roof to a 5.9 hand crack. A short section of offwidth leads to a narrow ledge. This ledge was in the shade and an awesome place to belay. Save a big cam (#4 is better than #3) for the final wide stretch.

Pitch 6

5.8
Shares w/ The Cruise
Climb the hand crack above the ledge, eventually exiting onto easy slabs. Move left and belay at any number of stances beneath the massive flake feature above. Although the topo mentions you can possibly link Pitches 6+7 with a 70m rope, it also notes the potential for rope drag if you do so. The rope drag is real, even with my minimal and thoughtful gear placements. But linking the first half of Pitch 7 into Pitch 6 seemed to work well and had a comfortable shady belay spot. This straightforward and moderate pitch is a nice break from the sustained pitches leading up to it.

Pitch 7

5.8
Shares w/ The Cruise
Continue moving up along the left side of a pillar, around a horn, and chimney behind a large flake. Belay at the only bolted anchor on the route. This was a short pitch for us since I had linked the first half into Pitch 6.

Pitch 8

5.9+
Shares w/ The Cruise
This pitch has the second mental crux of the route, but we didn't think it was as heady or possibly consequential as the mental crux of Pitch 4. Traverse hard right along a ledge system, and then move up and right through face moves (two bolts, with a few 5.9 moves above the bolts). Continue up and right to a stance below a corner/bulge.

Pitch 9

5.9+
Shares w/ The Cruise
Climb through the bulge and up the corner (the topo has this as the end of the previous pitch). Make an airy traverse hard left on flakes to gain a corner/crack system. Climb up as far as you can, ideally to a sloping stance below a final steep section.

Top out

Walk left along the terrace and scramble out of a weakness (3rd) to the top. Pop out at the scenic overlook on the canyon rim. Hike the nature/overlook trail back to the campground.

Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: October 26, 2019 (Sat);  Partner: Tom Wright

Route Overlay

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Intro

Above a spicy 5.9 R opening pitch, Journey Home provides sustained and excellent 5.9-5.10 crack climbing straight up the the southeast face of North Chasm View Wall. The climbing has a "blue collar" athletic nature. The position and views are awesome. It really doesn't get much better than this. According to the guidebook (and I would agree), Journey Home is arguably the 5.10- test piece in the Black.

I climbed this route on another October weekend in the Black with Tom Wright. Drive to Black Friday night + Journey Home Saturday + A Midsummer Night's Dream Sunday + drive back to Boulder Sunday night (and beat the snowstorm over the mountain passes!). We topped out at around 2:30pm so we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon in an awesome place. 

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 2

5.10
Climb up the corner, eventually climbing through a slot and pulling through a roof (awesome!). Belay above at nice stance. 

Pitch 5

5.10-
 Move up and into a wide crack (our largest piece was a single #4 and we made it through it). I personally found this short section of wide crack to be the most difficult climbing on the route, but #4 is probably my hardest side to climb. Eventually trending black right to a ledge. Continue though one or two brown dihedrals, depending on how far you want to go.

Pitch 6

5.9
Depending on how far you went on the previous pitch, you might have another short brown dihedral to climb. Then trend up and left on junky slabs. The climbing is easy but loose. End on the walk-off terrace above.

Top out

Coil up the rope, put on approach shoes, and walk left to the far end of the terrace, where you can easily scramble up to the canyon rim just beside the overlook. Sign autographs for any tourists at the overlook. From there, a quick stroll back to the campground.

Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: October 27, 2019 (Sun);  Partner: Tom Wright
Date: May 27, 2022 (Fri);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route Overlay

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Intro

A Midsummer Night's Dream is known to be one of the better half-day 5.10/5.11- routes in the Black. The 5.11- crux involves a few thin moves of 11a on an otherwise 5.10 climb. In my opinion, the best way to climb this route is with the awesome 5.10 hand/fist crack Sex Comedy option for Pitch 5 and then to finish on the steep and sustained 5.11 crack system of Happy Ending. These pitches can be bypassed for easier but less memorable sections of climbing.

October 2019: I climbed this route on another October weekend in the Black with Tom Wright. Drive to Black Friday night + Journey Home Saturday + A Midsummer Night's Dream Sunday + drive back to Boulder Sunday night. We topped out on the rim around noon, which allowed us to just beat the forecasted snowstorm over the mountain passes as we made our way back to Boulder. By now I've become fully enraptured by Black and cannot wait for the next opportunity return.

May 2022: After two full days of climbing at The Black (The Cruise and Russian Arête), Nate and I decided a nice half-day climb sounded good. Nate had not climbed A Midsummer Night’s Dream so we headed for that. Heat (it was 80° and sunny) and cumulative climbing caused us to bypass the awesome Sex Comedy and Happy Ending pitches, but it was still a nice few hours camp-to-camp outing.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 1

5.9
Climb up a crack system through a bulge and end on a nice ledge. (Pitches 1 & 2 can be linked at 60-70m. We had planned on linking the first two pitches, but there was a party at the belay at the top of Pitch 1 when we started up, and we wanted to give them room. Turns out they were so fast we never saw them again...until noon when we took a stroll to the overlook and saw them climbing up The Odyssey....)

Pitch 2

5.11-
From the ledge, continue up the obvious slot/crack system. There is a short section of 5.11- near the top of the pitch (Tom and I both found the crux to be enjoyable movement and relatively straightforward for 5.11). Belay on the ledge above.

Pitch 4

5.8
A short pitch up face holds leads to the base of Sex Comedy or to the base of the blocky corner on Leisure Climb. If you belayed high enough on the previous pitch, this pitch can be linked with Pitch 5 into a 65-70m pitch.

Pitch 5

5.10
Sex Comedy
Climb the excellent hand-to-fist crack/flake. Near the top of the crack, traverse right beneath some overhangs and climb up to the terrace above.

(Alternative is to climb the 5.6 corner on Leisure Climb to the right of Sex Comedy, which is what Nate and I did in May 2022.)

Pitch 6

5.11
Happy Ending
Climb the sustained crack system of the Happy Ending, located directly right of the Kama Sutra corner.

(Alternatives are to do the 5.9+ Direct Finish (which I did when I climbed Leisure-Summer) or walk off the ledge to the left (which Nate and I did in May 2022). But when Tom and I saw the Happy Ending we couldn't resist.

Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: July 7, 2019 (Sun);  Partner: Doug Hutchinson

Route Overlay

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Intro

Leisure-Summer links the fun first two pitches of Leisure Climb, the stellar long Pitch 3 corner of A Midsummer Night's Dream, two more pitches of forgettable climbing, and a direct finish pitch to the canyon rim. This link-up is one of the better 5.9/5.9+ climbs in the Black.

Doug and I had planned to nab a summer day of unusually cooler/cloudier weather and climb Scenic Cruise, but the forecast was for 40% thundershowers and when we felt a few raindrops at the top of Pitch 1 of Scenic Cruise, we decided to bail and go climb the shorter and less committing Leisure-Summer. It was an enjoyable day in the Black, but felt a bit low key compared to other climbs in the area.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Bonus pitch: Pitch 1 of Scenic Cruise

5.8
We had initially planned on climbing Scenic Cruise. But the forecast was for 40% thundershowers, and when we felt a few raindrops just as we reached the top of Pitch 1, we decided it was wise to bail and climb the shorter and less committing Leisure-Summer. The rain turned to sun, but a spell of thundershowers raged over the area at 2:30pm. We probably would have still been on the climb (but near the top) at 2:30pm so we felt like we made the right decision. Best not to mess with Colorado thundershowers! I'll have to come back for Scenic Cruise.....(update: See September 2019 trip report!).

Pitch 1

5.8
Leisure Climb
Climb the right-facing corner. Some wide stuff. A #5 might be nice to have for a few moves, but a #5 is not needed for the remainder of the route...

Pitch 2

5.8
Leisure Climb
Climb the cracks in the corner. At the top, traverse hard left to below Pitch 3 of A Midsummer Night's Dream.

Pitch 3

5.9
Midsummer Night's Dream
Climb the long right-facing corner of A Midsummer Night's Dream. Best pitch of climbing on the route! (I climbed this pitch again when I climbed A Midsummer Night's Dream later that year).

Pitch 4

5.8
Leisure Climb
Climb up through face moves and intermittent cracks, following your nose.

Pitch 6

5.9+
Direct Finish
 Traverse the ledge about 250 feet to below a splitter crack. Climb the crack to the canyon rim. The crux is climbing through the steep pegmatite near the rim. Good pitch.

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