Boulder Canyon Climbing 2018-present

Boulder Canyon Climbing 2018-present

Route:

various

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~7,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): 2018(x1 day), 2019(x4 days), 2020(x1 day), 2021(x11 days), 2022(x10 days), 2023(x1 day), 2024(x3 days)
Partner(s): Annie Hines, Doug Haller, Tony Bubb, Brad Mering, Tom Wright, Michael Cantrell, Michael Underwood, Will Starks, Kishen Mangat, George Bracksieck, Peter Gonda, Nate Arganbright, Patrik Larsson, Matt Touchette, Zach Durbin, Will Starks, Erika Bannon, Ryan Enright, Nate Beckwith, Linn Kelley, Erin Houlihan, Emma Dhimitri

Boulder Canyon is located mere minutes west of Boulder. The rock is granite, smooth in places but for the most part highly textured. The canyon has a wide variety of climbing types, both sport and trad, and nice scenery above the highway. The soaring granite walls of Upper Dream Canyon off the Sugarloaf Road provide some of the areas longest routes and a good mix of sport and trad in a seemingly remote setting high above the Boulder Canyon floor.

The first time I climbed in Boulder Canyon was in July 2018, for one day, in between bigger objectives in RMNP. I didn't know it at the time, but a year later I would be living in Boulder and the climbs in Boulder Canyon would be a mere half hour from my home.

On this page, I give photos from climbing in Boulder Canyon, organized by date. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon.

Photos

SOME RANDOM PHOTOS FROM CRAGGING IN BOULDER CANYON


More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 13, 2018 (Fri)
Partner: Annie Hines
Climbed at: Bell Buttress and Cob Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Empor 5.7+, 2-3p, trad Cob Rock
• West Face 5.9+, trad Bell Buttress
• Cosmosis (Pitch 1) 5.10a, trad Bell Buttress
• West Crack 5.10a, trad Bell Buttress
I had planned a 4-day climbing trip in the Rocky Mountain National Park area with Annie Hines, but the first day of our planned trip was forecasting "60% thundershowers after 1pm" in the Park. We tossed around the ideas of Lumpy Ridge, Eldorado Canyon, and Boulder Canyon. I had climbed the last 2 days at Lumpy and had already climbed at Eldorado Canyon, but had never climbed at Boulder Canyon. Neither had Annie, so we were both eager to check it out. So Boulder Canyon it was!

Boulder Canyon is just west of Boulder. The rock is granite, smooth in places but for the most part highly textured. The canyon has a wide variety of climbing types, both sport and trad, and nice scenery above the highway. At the recommendation of an Estes Park local, Annie and I started off the day by doing laps on three popular routes at Bell Buttress: Cosmosis, West Face, and West Crack. We finished the day by climbing a 2-pitch route on the cool-looking Cob Rock ("that rock looks cool, lets climb something on it"). The tyroleans across Boulder Creek to access Bell Buttress and Cob Rock were a unique treat to climbing on the south side of the highway. We finished early, but we needed to get ready for a climb in RMNP the next day.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 16, 2019 (Tue)
Partner: Doug Haller
Climbed at: Upper Dream Canyon
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Wrinkles in Time 5.9, 1-2p, sport Dream Dome
• Hunky Monkey /w variations 5.10, 4p, sport Lost Angel Wall
• In Your Dreams 5.11a, sport Oceanic Wall
• Deep, The 5.11c, sport Oceanic Wall

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 11, 2019 (Sun)
Partner: Tony Bubb
Climbed at: Security Risk Massif
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Prism, The 5.9, trad
• Maximum Security 5.10a, trad
• Scraping By 5.10a, trad
• Give me a Squeeze (possible FA?) 5.10-, trad

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 18, 2019 (Sun)
Partner: Brad Mering
Climbed at: Castle Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• South Face 5.9+, 3p, trad
• Country Club Crack 5.11c, 1-2p, trad (toprope solo once)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 31, 2019 (Sat)
Partner: Tom Wright
Climbed at: Castle Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Bailey's Overhang 5.8, trad
• Black Crack 5.9+, trad
• Curving Crack 5.9+, trad
• Skunk Crack 5.9+, trad
• Comeback Crack 5.10b, trad

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: May 8, 2020 (Fri)
Partner: Michael Cantrell
Climbed at: Happy Hour Crag
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Are We Not Men 5.7, trad
• Grins 5.8, trad
• Twofers 5.8, trad
• Nightcap 5.9, trad
• Thrill of the Chase 5.10a, mixed
• Dementia 5.10a, trad
• Teetotaler 5.11a, sport
• Rush Hour 5.12a, mixed

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: April 29, 2021 (Thu)
Partner: Michael Underwood
Climbed at: Plotinus Wall
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Mr. Sandman 5.10a, sport
• Smell the Coffee 5.10a, sport
• Snooze Button 5.10a/b, sport
• Plotinus 5.10a/b, trad
• Daily Grind, The 5.10d, sport
• Golden Slumber 5.10d, mixed
• Scientist, The 5.11a, sport
• Tooth Fairy 5.11d/10a, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: May 5, 2021 (Wed)
Partner: Michael Underwood
Climbed at: The Bihedral
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Bihedral (Pitch 1) 5.7, trad
• Flags of our Fathers (Pitch 3) 5.9, sport
• Bihedral Arete with Dihedral Variation for P1 5.9+, 2p, sport
• Puff Daddy 5.10a, sport
• Sands of Iwo Jima 5.11d, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: May 26, 2021 (Wed)
Partner: Will Starks
Climbed at: Wall of Winter Warmth
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Slit, The 5.10a, trad
• Left Side 5.10b, 4p, trad
• Direct Cop Out 5.10c, 3p, mixed (toprope solo)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 1, 2021 (Thu)
Partner: Kishen Mangat
Climbed at: Castle Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Athlete's Feat 5.11a, 4p, trad
• Country Club Crack 5.11c, 1-2p, trad (toprope solo once)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 19, 2021 (Thu)
Partner: George Bracksieck
Climbed at: Tonnere Tower
Routes: 
• Workingman's Blues 5.10b, 3p, trad

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 20, 2021 (Thu)
Partner: Peter Gonda
Climbed at: Animal World
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Old Dihedral 5.7, trad
• Baby Dog 5.7+, sport
• Animation 5.8, sport
• We Don't Do Crack 5.8, trad
• Familiar Strangers 5.8+, trad
• Laurel and Hardy Meet Abbot and Costello 5.9, sport
• Is It Ready Yet...Moe 5.9+, sport
• Unfamiliar Strangers 5.9+, sport
• Lazy Day 5.9+, sport
• Melancholy Man 5.11a (5.10 A1) (toprope)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 25, 2021 (Wed)
Partner: Peter Gonda
Climbed at: Cob Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Indistinction 5.8-, trad
• West Rib 5.8, 1-2p, trad
• North Face Left 5.8, 1-2p, trad
• Othello 5.8+, trad
• Huston Crack 5.8+, trad
• Aid Crack 5.10d (toprope)
• Ms. Fanny Le Pump 5.11c or 5.10 A1 (toprope)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: September 1, 2021 (Wed)
Partner: Peter Gonda
Climbed at: Avalon
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Iron Maiden 5.9, sport
• Tower, The 5.9+, sport
• S.I.N. 5.10b, sport (toprope)
• Slayer 5.10b, sport
• Wheel of Fortune 5.10b, sport
• Lust 5.10c, sport
• Marquis de Sade 5.10c, sport
• Horse, The 5.10d, mixed (toprope)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: September 3, 2021 (Fri)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed at: The Rivera
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Bosch Blanket Bingo 5.9, sport
• Devin's Dihedral 5.9 PG 13 (toprope)
• New Lease on Life 5.9+, sport
• Lease Agreement 5.10a, mixed
• Sea Breeze 5.11a, sport
• Silver Glide 5.11b, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: September 15, 2021 (Wed)
Partner: Patrik Larsson
Climbed at: Bell Buttress
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Double Jeopardy (Pitch 1) 5.9, trad
• West Face 5.9+, trad
• West Crack 5.10a, trad
• Cosmosis (Pitch 1) 5.10a, trad
• Gates of Eden (Pitch 1) 5.10b, trad
• Bell Buster 5.11a, sport (toprope)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: September 17, 2021 (Fri)
Partner: Peter Gonda
Climbed at: Tonnere Tower
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Buried Treasure 5.8+, 2p, sport
• Stayin' Alive (Pitch 2) 5.10a, 1p, sport
• Toe the Line 5.10a, 2p, sport
• Total Eclipse 5.10a, 2p, sport
• Sidekick 5.10d, 1p, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: June 7, 2022 (Tue)
Partner: Peter Gonda
Climbed at: Tonnere Tower
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Tree Line 5.8, 1p, sport
• Twilight Time 5.9, 1p, sport
• Twilight Kid, The 5.10b, 1p, sport
• Bobby's Back 5.11a, 1p, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: June 9, 2022 (Thu)
Partner: Matt Touchette
Climbed at: Avalon
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Iron Maiden 5.9, sport
• Tower, The 5.9+, sport
• Slayer 5.10b, sport
• Lust 5.10c, sport
• Marquis de Sade 5.10c, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: June 14, 2022 (Tue)
Partner: Matt Touchette
Climbed at: Upper Dream Canyon
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Chocolate Nut Factory 5.9, sport Dream Dome
• Pound Town 5.9, sport Dream Dome
• Wrinkles in Time 5.9, 1-2p, sport Dream Dome
• Shape Shifters 5.9, mixed Lost Angel Wall
• Time Traveler 5.9, mixed Lost Angel Wall
• Stained Glass (Pitch 1) 5.11a, sport Dream Dome

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: June 17, 2022 (Fri)
Partners: Matt Touchette, Zach Durbin
Climbed at: Avalon
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Stigmata, The 5.10a, trad
• Dead Again 5.10c, sport
• Dominator 5.10c, sport
• Clipboard, The 5.11a, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: June 27, 2022 (Mon)
Partner: Will Starks
Climbed at: Blob Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Crack Tac, The 5.9, trad
• Young and the Rackless, The 5.9, 4p, sport
• Bolt Cola 5.9+, sport
• Get Shorty 5.10b, sport (toprope)
• Mile High Comic Crack 5.12a, trad (toprope)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: June 28, 2022 (Tue)
Partner: Erika Bannon
Climbed at: Cascade Crag
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Reunion 5.8, sport
• Rain Delay 5.10b, sport
• Fire Starter to Fire and Rain to 20/20 5.10c, sport
• Hustle 5.10d, mixed

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 19, 2022 (Tue)
Partner: Erika Bannon
Climbed at: Sherwood Forest
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Price and the Pauper, The 5.10a, sport
• Fatman and Robin 5.10d, sport
• Merry Men 5.11a, sport
• Robbin' the Hood 5.11c, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 30, 2022 (Tue)
Partner: Zach Durbin
Climbed at: Electra Glide & Practice Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Electra Glide 5.9-, trad Electra Glide
• Lieback 5.10a, trad (toprope) Practice Rock
• Catch You Later 5.10b, trad (toprope) Electra Glide
• Regular Route 5.11a, trad Practice Rock

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: September 29, 2022 (Thu)
Partner: Nate Beckwith
Climbed at: Castle Rock
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Country Club Crack 5.11c, 1-2p, trad (toprope solo once)
• Englishman's Home 5.11d, trad (toprope solo)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: January 14, 2023 (Sat)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed at: The Bihedral
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Group Therapy 5.8, sport
• Flags of our Fathers (Pitch 3) 5.9, sport
• Bihedral Arete with Dihedral Variation for P1 5.9+, 2p, sport
• Puff Daddy 5.10a, sport
• Rhodian Shores 5.10b, sport
• Leave No Trace 5.11a, sport
• Sands of Iwo Jima 5.11d, sport

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: November 16, 2024 (Sat)
Partner: Erika Bannon
Climbed at: Bitty Buttress
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Left Crack 5.9+, trad (toprope)
• Right Crack 5.10a, trad
• Jaguary 5.11b, trad (toprope)
• Peapod 5.11d, trad (toprope)

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: November 17, 2024 (Sun)
Partners: Linn Kelley, Erin Houlihan, Emma Dhimitri
Climbed at: Happy Hour Crag
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Grins 5.8, trad
• Twofers 5.8, trad
• Nightcap 5.9, trad
• Last Call 5.9+, trad
• Dementia 5.10a, trad

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: December 7, 2024 (Sat)
Partners: Linn Kelley, Erin Houlihan
Climbed at: Security Risk
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Pup 5.9, sport
• Security Risk 5.10c, 2p, trad
• Cold Shot 5.11b, sport
• Evolution 5.11c, sport, toprope
• Crash Test Blondes 5.11c, sport

List of Climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon

LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

Previous and Next Adventures

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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