Intro

MacGregor Slab is a large dome of granite high above Hwy 34 as it leads out of Estes Park towards the north (Fall River Road) entrance to RMNP. Many moderate climbs of 5 and 6 pitches lead to the summit. The rock quality is good and the climbing is less than vertical but fun, and routes are long.

Camel Toe is a nice route up the center left of MacGregor Slab, on mostly excellent stone with a couple pitches of superb climbing. The route has five pitches, and you can rappel the route (double ropes) from the top of the fifth pitch or continue to the top to scramble off. The route is a mix of bolts and gear, just enough where you need it. Thanks Scott for climbing this route again — what a fun morning outing on a hot day!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd

Park at the Fall River Visitor Center lodge parking lot, cross the street, and find the trail on the other side of the McGregor Mountain Lodge. The approach is an uphill hike, about 30 minutes.

Pitch 1

5.7, ~125'

~4 bolts

Follow four bolts up a low-angle slab, aiming for an obvious tree above at the base of the second pitch.

Pitch 2

5.9, ~175'

~13 bolts

Follow the bolted line up the slab, popping over two overlaps on the way. Finish at a bolted anchor. The stone is excellent and the climbing is sustained and slabby, with just enough holds to keep the grade at 5.9. The pitch is fairly well bolted.

Pitch 3

5.9+, ~190'

~5 bolts

Angle rightward past two bolts, pop over a 5.7 roof on jugs, clip another bolt and go up to a horizontal. The crux is balancing past the next two bolts. Continue up on easier terrain to a larger horizontal below a slab, clip another bolt, and look for the bolted anchor. This is the crux pitch for the balancy move mentioned above, but the climbing is not as sustained as the previous pitch. This is a long pitch. Pay attention to route-finding and rope drag.

Pitch 4

5.8-, ~155'

~4 bolts

Continue up a short, right-facing corner to a slab with 4 bolts. Continue up and slightly left to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 5

5.4, ~140'

0 bolts

Meander up easy terrain angling right to a mini-headwall with a tree at a big ledge. Find the bolted anchor. This is a somewhat unremarkable pitch and could perhaps be better if it instead climbed face and roof to the right (this would need bolts).

Pitch 6

5.7, ~140'

0 bolts

There is a 6th pitch that allows one to summit. It is mostly quite easy with just a 5.7 move or so. We didn't climb this pitch since we were not sure we could rappel from the top of Pitch 6.

We didn't climb this pitch since we were not sure we could rappel from the top of Pitch 6.

Descent

Walk off or rappel

Option 1: Continue to the top and walk-off right or left. Option 2: Rappel from the top of Pitch 5 with 2 ropes. We took the rappel option.

www.StephAbegg.com

MacGregor Slab, Camel Toe (5.9+, 5-6p)

MacGregor Slab

Route:

Camel Toe

5.9+, 5-6p

A nice 5.9+ route up the center left of MacGregor Slab.

Route Overlay

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