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Chasm View Wall, Indirectissima (5.9, 4-6p)

Chasm View Wall

Route:

Indirectissima

5.9, 4-6p

Camping and climbing in one of the most iconic locations in RMNP.

Region: Colorado

Elev: ~13,500 ft

Rock type: Granite

Type:

Date(s): August 6, 2022 (Sat)

Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Related trip reports:

Chasm View Wall, Babies R Us (5.12a, 5p, toprope)

Chasm View Wall, Directissima (5.10b, 4p)

Chasm View Wall, Red Wall (5.10b, 6p)

Chasm View Wall, Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p)

Chasm View Wall, Sharp on Both Ends (5.11d, 6p)

Route Overlay

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Intro

The previous weekend, Nate and I had climbed Royal Flush (5.11c, 10p) on Chasm View Wall (a wall of sunny granite just right of the Diamond in Chasm Lake Cirque). We enjoyed the area and the rock so much we decided to return the following weekend. We spent the weekend in Chasm Lake Cirque, under the towering granite walls of the Diamond. It is a rather spectacular place to hang out—one of my favorite bivy locations in RMNP.

Initially, the weekend forecast was for "90% rain", but at the last minute NOAA decided that they really didn't know(a) and that "20%" was a more reasonable prediction. Obviously, work to be done with weather models! But Nate and I had already decided we were going no matter what to keep the weekend alpine streak going, so in the end the bad weather forecast but actually good weather ended up being in our favor by keeping crowds away and allowing us some pleasant weather to actually climb in.

On Saturday we climbed Indirectissima (5.9, 4-6p) on Chasm View Wall. On Sunday we did a long day link-up of Stettner's Ledges (5.8, 6p) on Lower East Face of Longs Peak with Zumie's Thumb (5.9, 7p) on Upper East Face of Longs Peak.

Indirectissima climbs along a distinct hollow flake system on the right side of Chasm View Wall. Our actual objective of the day had been Sharp on Both Ends (5.11d, 6p), but when we got to the 11d corner of Pitch 4 we decided to leave it for another day. It was easy to traverse to the start of Pitch 2 of Indirectissima from here. Since Pitch 3 of Sharp on Both Ends is the same as Pitch 1 of Indirectissima, we ended up climbing all of Indirectissima, plus we had added two 5.9 pitches to the start (Pitch 1 was a 5.9 corner just left of the official first pitch of Sharp on Both Ends and Pitch 2 was the second pitch of Sharp on Both Ends). With the two extra 5.9 pitches (which I call a "direct start" in this trip report), Indirectissima turns into a worthy 6-pitch adventure with three pitches of good 5.9 climbing.

The following page provides a trip report for the climb of Indirectissima (with direct start) as well as photos from our overnight in the Chasm Lake Cirque. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Leave bivy in Chasm Lake Cirque: 6:56 am
Base of route (direct start): 7:07 am (0:11 to approach from camp)
Start climbing: 7:18 am
Top of route: 10:45 am (3:27 to climb route)
Begin descent (via Fifth Avenue): 10:57 am
Arrive back at bivy in Chasm Lake Cirque (did some exploring): 12:15 pm (1:18 to get back to camp)
Camp-to-camp time: 5 hours 19 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd-3rd

Starting from Longs Peak Trailhead, hike to the base of Chasm View Wall. For the direct start (2 extra pitches of 5.9 climbing), begin on a grassy ledge just left of the start of Sharp on Both Ends. For the guidebook start, begin from a ramp about 50 feet up and right from the start of Directissima and follow the ramp to the right side of the highest ledge.

Pitch 1

(direct start)

5.9, 200'

Climb cracks just right of a big corner. This is just left of the first pitch of Sharp on Both Ends. Dance a bit carefully around a couple of bigger blocks, which look a bit questionable but felt reasonably attached.

Pitch 2

(direct start)

5.9, 120'

Climb the second pitch of Sharp on Both Ends. This pitch climbs a left-facing corner.

Pitch 3

(Pitch 1 without direct start)

5.7, 80'

Climb the left side of a flake system, then hand traverse left to a grassy ledge in a scoop. Belay below a chimney.

Pitch 4

(Pitch 2 without direct start)

5.4, 70'

Climb a chimney out right to a good ledge and belay.

Pitch 5

(Pitch 3 without direct start)

5.9, 100'

Two options: (1) Head up and left around a huge lake and reach the big ledge from the left. This seems to require a big cam (#5 or #6) to protect. (2) Traverse down and right for 20 feet to a dihedral and then climb up to the big ledge. This was the way the first ascent was done; it was rated at 5.7 A2 at the time but we felt it went free at 5.9.

We went with Option 2, since we did not have a big cam to protect Option 1.

Pitch 6

(Pitch 4 without direct start)

4th, 150'

Scramble up to the highest ledge and go right up a ramp. Squeeze behind a 20-foot flake, then follow a ramp up and right to the ridge crest.

Top

The route tops out on ridge between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington.

Descent

There are a few options. You can descend easily to the Boulderfield and gain the trail to Longs Peak Trailhead. Alternatively, you can return to Chasm Lake via the Camel Gully or Fifth Avenue.

We we bivied in Chasm Lake Cirque for the weekend so we returned to Chasm Lake Cirque via Fifth Avenue (Camel Gully would probably have been slightly more efficient, but we wanted to scope out the lesser-known Fifth Avenue option).

Other Photos

Below are some other photos from our weekend in the spectacular Chasm Lake Cirque beneath the towering walls of the Diamond.

Our bivy

We bivied in Chasm Lake Cirque. What an awesome place to spend a couple of days—one of my favorite bivy locations in RMNP.

Flora, Plants, Birds, etc.

Although the wildflowers were past their peak, there were still several flowers dotting the landscape. There were also several rosy-finches up in the Chasm Lake Cirque.