Overlays for Routes I've Climbed on The Diamond

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Map

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Map showing main methods of Approach and Descent.

Approach Beta

There are two main methods of approach:

• Approach Option 1: North Chimney to Broadway Ledge. Most common way to get here is hiking in via Chasm Lake Cirque.
• Approach Option 2: Chasm View Rappels to Broadway Ledge. Most common way to get here is hiking in via Boulderfield.
• (Approach Option 3 (Less Common): Climb a route on Chasm View Wall and traverse left via Chasm View Cut-Off to Broadway Ledge.)
• (Approach Option 4 (Even less common and kind of dangerous because of the traverse): Climb a route on the Lower East Face and traverse right on Broadway Ledge.)

Approach Option 1: North Chimney

5.4

Some snow getting into North Chimney (spikes/crampons helpful) and then loose 5.4 rock getting up North Chimney.

There are more random photos taken during this approach in various trip reports for the Diamond.

Approach Option 2: Chasm View Rappels

3 rappels

Chasm View to Broadway Ledge: 3 double-rope rappels of bolted rap stations.

There are more random photos taken during this approach in various trip reports for the Diamond.

Approach Option 3: Climb a route on Chasm View Wall and traverse left via Chasm View Cut-Off  to Broadway Ledge

4-5 pitches, 5.10-5.12

Chasm View to Broadway Ledge: 3 double-rope rappels of bolted rap stations.

I've done this approach once, on my 2019 climb of Red Wall on Chasm View Wall.

Approach Option 4: Climb a route on Lower East Face and traverse right on Broadway Ledge

~6 pitches, 5.8-5.12

In June 2020, my partner add I tried to traverse from the top of Kor's Door (a route up the Lower East Face) to the base of the Diamond, and encountered a steep and sloughy snowpatch hanging above Field's Chimney that we judged a bit too dangerous to cross. I have heard that in later summer once the snowpatch melts, that this section is steep loose talus. In general, this approach is not very safe and not recommended. But for the sake of completeness I decided to include it as at least an option for those willing to risk it.

There are some random photos of Broadway Ledge and this snowpatch in my trip report for Kor's Door.

Descent Beta

There are two main methods of descent:

• Descent Option 1: From Table Ledge, use the Diamond Rappel Route, which goes down the left side of Diamond and regain trail at Chasm Lake area. If you go to the summit, you can get to Table Ledge from the summit by reversing upper Kiener's Route (3rd and a few moves of 4th).
• Descent Option 2: This descent starts from the summit. To get to the summit from Table Ledge, you can either scramble upper Kiener's Route (3rd and a few moves of 4th) to the summit, or climb some 5.10-5.12 route above Table Ledge to the top rim of the Diamond as we did in this trip report and from there scramble easily to the summit. Routes on the right side of the Diamond end at the top rim of the Diamond. From the summit, descend via the Cables Route (3rd class scramble and 2 single rope rappels or 5.4 downclimb) on the North Face to Chasm View. From Chasm View, either descend to the Boulderfield to regain the trail or use Camel Gully (Descent Connector 1) or Fifth Avenue (Descent Connector 2) and descend into Chasm Lake Cirque.
• Note 1: You can combine either approach option with either descent option, although you might need to consider where to leave your extra stuff, or if you want to take it all with you.
• Note 2: It is also possible to descend the Keyhole Route (3rd), but this would take you much more time than the Cables Route descent.
• Note 3: In my experience the quickest descent is to descend the Cables Route and hike out via the Boulderfield. This means you don't want to leave anything behind in Chasm Lake Cirque.

Descent Option 1: Diamond Rappel Route

9 double-rope rappels

Table Ledge to Broadway Ledge: 5 raps with double ropes (the established rap route is definitely set up for double rope raps).
Broadway Ledge to snowfield: 4 raps (90', 150', 150', 200').

There are more random photos taken during this approach in various trip reports for the Diamond.

Descent Option 2: Kiener's Route to summit to Cables Route

3rd + 1-2 rappels

Climb to summit via Kiener's Route (3rd-4th) or via a route above Table Ledge (5.9-5.12 depending on route). The Cables Route descent takes you to Chasm View (3rd with 1-2 single rope raps). From Chasm View, either descend to the Boulderfield to intersect trail or head to Camel Gully or Fifth Avenue and descend back to Chasm Lake Cirque.

There are more random photos taken during this approach in various trip reports for the Diamond.

Descent Connector Route 1: Camel Gully

4-5 pitches, 5.10-5.12

This route connects the ridge between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington with Chasm Lake Cirque. The route starts at a low point just south of Mt. Lady Washington, marked by a formation known as The Camel. The route ends in a gully that dumps you just above the northwest end of Chasm Lake. The route is mostly a 3rd class scramble down a rocky slope. If the goal is to get to the base of Chasm View Wall or North Chimney, then Fifth Avenue (described below) is a more direct (but perhaps less safe) option.

There are more random photos taken during this descent in various trip reports for the Diamond and Chasm View Wall.

Descent Connector Route 2: Fifth Avenue

~6 pitches, 5.8-5.12

Like Camel Guly, this route connects the ridge between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington with Chasm Lake Cirque. The route starts at a low point (the second lowest point) between Chasm View and Mt. Lady Washington, just south of the start of Camel Gully. The route ends at a ramp system that leading to the base of Chasm View Wall. The general idea is to follow gullies and grassy ramps through exposed 3rd-4th class terrain. Fifth Avenue is a shorter way to the base of Chasm View Wall and the base of the North Chimney than Camel Gully, but it is a longer way back to the bivy sites above the northwest end of Chasm Lake. Fifth Avenue is also a bit more loose rock and 4th class than Camel Gully, so Camel Gully is ultimately a safer choice. There seems to be a bit of confusion as to the exact route and route name (alternative names for Fifth Avenue include Fisherman's Folley, Fisherman's Fantasy, 42d Street, Positively 4th Street), but Bernard Gillette calls if Fifth Avenue so I will go with that!

There are more random photos taken during this descent in various trip reports for the Diamond and Chasm View Wall.

Diamond Time Stats

A Few Photos