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Eldorado Canyon Climbing 2014-present: Naked Edge (5.11b, 6p) and others

Eldorado Canyon Climbing 2014-present

Routes:

- Naked Edge (5.11b, 6p)
- Other routes

Region: Colorado
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Naked Edge (5.11b, 6p)
Date(s): August 12, 2014 (Tue), July 14, 2019 (Sun), July 13, 2021 (Tue), September 3, 2024 (Tue), Ocober 8, 2024 (Tue)
Partner(s): Eric Schweitzer, Michal Matyjasik, Mike Lawson, JJ Calhoun, Kishen Mangat
Trip Report 2:
Various other routes
Date(s): 2014(x2 days), 2018(x3 days), 2019(x16 days), 2020(x4 days), 2021(x6 days), 2022(x11 day), 2024(x5 days)
Partner(s): Alex Haeger, Amy Gray-Smith, Brad Mering, Craig Weinhold, Dave Wichman, Eric Schweitzer, Erika Bannon, Erin DeMarco, Erin Houlihan, Gabe Allen, Giles Eperon, Greg DeSantis, Jenny Abegg, Kishen Mangat, Kristen Dillon, Lisa Foster, Michael Butts, Michael Underwood, Michal Matyjasik, Natalie Huey, Nate Mankovitch, Patrik Larsson, Ryan Enright, Stuart Gillespie, Tom Wright, Tony Bubb, Will Starks, Zach Durbin

Located mere minutes south of Boulder, Eldorado Canyon ("Eldo") is a world-class climbing area. Thousands of routes ascend the beautiful sandstone cliffs, which rise up to 700 feet in height. The sandstone at Eldo is hard, more reminiscent of granite than sandstone in other areas. The climbing is predominantly trad, yet there is relatively little crack climbing; instead, the style of the climbing is delicate face moves, steep juggy roofs, and highly technical sequences on featured rock separated by decent rests. The steepness, committing nature of the climbing, and tricky pro can make climbing at Eldo pretty game on. It is an awesome place.

The first time I climbed at Eldo was in August 2014, for three days during a brief stop on a climbing road trip. Four years later, in Summer 2018 on a month-long climbing roadtrip to Colorado, I squeezed in a few more days at Eldo. I didn't know it at the time, but a year later I would be living in Boulder and Eldo would be 20 minutes from my doorstep.

On this page, I give photos from climbing in Eldorado Canyon, organized by date. I've also included my trip report for the Naked Edge at the top of the page. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done in Eldorado Canyon.

Pitch-by-Pitch Trip Report for The Naked Edge

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Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 12, 2014 (Tue);  Partner: Eric Schweitzer
- Date: July 14, 2019 (Sun);  Partner: Michal Matyjasik
- Date: July 13, 2021 (Tue);  Partner: Mike Lawson
- Date: September 3, 2024 (Tue);  Partner: JJ Calhoun
- Date: Ocober 8, 2024 (Tue);  Partner: Kishen Mangat

Route Overlay

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Intro

The Naked Edge is one of the classic climbs in America. I climbed this route on the third day of my first visit to Eldo, and have climbed it several times since. My original trip report from 2014 has been beefed up with photos from subsequent climbs.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

August 2014 photos
The usual way to get to the base of Naked Edge is to climb Touch and Go up to the Lower Ramp and then from the Lower Ramp climb the Cave Pitch, an interesting 5.8 overhang, and reach a three-bolt belay at the base of the first pitch. This photo is taken looking up Touch and Go, which I led as one long pitch instead of two (just use slings wisely to avoid rope drag).
Looking up at Naked Edge from the top of Touch and Go. There are climbers cragging on the first pitch. Soon after I took this photo, a couple of climbers ran by us on the Lower Ramp. By the time Eric got to the base of the Naked Edge via the Cave Pitch, the guys were at the top. Apparently they were on their second lap.
To get to the start of the route from the Lower Ramp, climb the Cave Pitch, an interesting 5.8 overhang, and reach a three-bolt belay at the base of the first pitch.
July 2019 photos
Start of the low 5th scramble to the base of The Cave Pitch (avoids having to climb Touch and Go). We soloed this unroped.
The Cave Pitch.
Pulling the 5.8 move over the cave. It's like a jungle gym of jugs!
September 2024 photos
Part of the low 5th class scramble. I cannot recall soloing this in 2019, but perhaps I am getting wimpy in my old age because this time I asked for a rope.
October 2024 photos
Start of the low 5th scramble to the base of The Cave Pitch (avoids having to climb Touch and Go). I am getting wimpy in my old age because this time I asked for a rope.
Same section as above photo.

Pitch 1

5.11a, 70'
"Climb the finger crack, with a crux up high, to a two-bolt anchor at a stance on a slab."
August 2014 photos
Eric starting up Pitch 1. This is a really cool pitch as you are just right of the sharp arête.
July 2019 photos
Pitch 1 of The Naked Edge.
September 2024 photos
JJ leading Pitch 1.
October 2024 photos
Kishen leading Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.10b, 90'
"Climb the elegant slab right of the exposed arête, turn a corner to the left, then make thin moves up a short wall to a two-bolt anchor at a stance."
August 2014 photos
Eric starting up Pitch 2. Great exposure and a cool step around the Edge.
Another photo of Eric higher on Pitch 2, just before stepping left around the Edge.
September 2024 photos
Morning sun on Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.8+, 110'
"Follow the arête to a small alcove, step right, then mantel and continue to a sloping ramp at the base of a flared, overhanging chimney."
August 2014 photos
Looking up Pitch 3. The climbing on this pitch was slightly less than spectacular but still interesting and a bit spicy.
'X' marks the best handhold. Right?
A piton on Pitch 3. There are a fair number of pitons on the route.
July 2019 photos
Pitch 3. Exposure is awesome right on the arete.
September 2024 photos
JJ starting up Pitch 3.
October 2024 photos
Kishen starting up Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

5.11b, 60'
"Climb a short corner, then pull past a flake (fixed pin) and make difficult moves into the chimney. At its top, work out right along a small roof to a dramatically exposed semi-sling belay at bolts."
August 2014 photos
Eric starting up Pitch 4. As Eric exited the chimney and went over the roof (the crux of the pitch we thought), the carabiner on the sling from his last piece caught in his figure-eight knot and pulled him off. Frustrating, since he had pulled the crux move at this point!
July 2019 photos
Awesome climbing at the start of Pitch 4. Then it got real...
Michal starting up Pitch 4. The bombay chimney looms above. This section is still the crux of the route for me.
September 2024 photos
JJ starting up Pitch 4. Yep, still the crux pitch of the route for me.
October 2024 photos
Kishen starting up Pitch 4. He cruised the bombay.
Steph in the bombay. Photo by Kishen.
A party below us on Pitch 4.

Pitch 5

5.11b, 90'
"Layback an awkward steep corner, then step right around the corner and jam an overhanging hand-fist crack. At the top of the crack, step left and belay."
August 2014 photos
Looking up the start of Pitch 5. This pitch has the most crack-climbing feel of any pitch on the route. Even though this was a strenuous crux pitch late in the route, Eric flew up and finished before I finished my PowerBar.
October 2024 photos
Looking up the start of Pitch 5. The start of this pitch is difficult for me.

Pitch 6

5.6, 50'
"Follow easier rock to the top."
August 2014 photos
At the top of Pitch 6.

Descent

3rd/4th
East Slabs descent.
August 2014 photos
The standard descent is via the East Slabs (3rd/4th). We somehow could not find the East Slabs descent, so we just made our way down and left (where we knew the descent went), making a couple of rappels along the way.
Eric enjoying some shade by his truck after the climb. It had been a tad hot on the route, but we had a nice breeze that made it tolerable. Great climb!
July 2019 photos
The East Slabs descent. In 2014, Eric and I had been unable to find this descent, but now I live in Boulder and this descent is quite familiar and easy.
October 2024 photos
The East Slabs descent.

More Photos

SOME RANDOM PHOTOS FROM OTHER DAYS OF CRAGGING AT ELDO


More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 10, 2014 (Sun)
Partner: Stuart Gillespie
Climbed at: Redgarden Wall, The Bastille, Wind Tower
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• NW Corner (Pitch 1) P1: 5.8
• March of Dimes (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• Werk Supp 2p: 5.8, 5.9+
• March of Dimes, Arete variation (Pitch 1) 1p: 5.10a
• March of Dimes (Pitch 3) P3: 5.10c
• Tagger 2p: 5.9, 5.10c
• Genesis (Pitch 1) P1: 5.11a
• C'est La Vie 2p: 5.9+, 5.11b
The first day I climbed at Eldo. During my 2014 climbing road trip through Colorado.
Below is the original intro for this page, when I thought I would visit Eldo only once...
I had spent the first week of August climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, and was now headed back north for a second trip to the Cirque of the Towers to climb some routes I had not climbed on my first trip that summer. I had a few extra days between trips, so I decided to stop by Eldorado Canyon. Just south of Boulder, Eldorado Canyon is one of the world's finest and most famous climbing areas. It consists of steep, beautiful conglomerate sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of gold and red. The rock quality is reminiscent of granite rather than the soft sandstone found throughout much of Utah and Arizona.Below are some photos and a list of the routes I did during my three-day introduction to Eldorado Canyon. Thanks Stuart, Patrik, and Eric for the fun days of climbing in the Canyon. I'll be back for sure.

Eric (who I had climbed with for the previous couple of weeks) was interested in climbing The Naked Edge, a premier route of the Canyon (perhaps THE premier route of the Canyon) which ascends a spectacular 500' tall arête. But he was in the process of buying a Sprinter van and couldn't climb for a couple of days. So, following the partner-finding trend of the summer, I posted on MountainProject.com to see if I could find a partner (or partners) to climb for a couple of days while Eric dealt with the Sprinter. My problem quickly went from having no partner to having to choose between a dozen potential partners. Guess there are a lot of climbers in Boulder, huh.

I climbed for three days in Eldorado Canyon, the first two days with climbers from Boulder (Stuart and Patrik) and the third day with Eric. I really loved the technical nature of the climbing, plus the variety of cracks, face, corners, jugs, roofs, etc. The rock is quite grippy and for the most part solid. I had told my partners to "show me the best" so many of the routes we did were 3- or 4-star Canyon classics.

The first day, a 40% thundershower day, Stuart and I climbed several 1-2 pitch 5.8-5.11b routes.

The second day, under a more stable forecast, Patrik and I climbed a couple of longer (4-5 pitch) routes. Eric also joined us for the morning.

The third day, with the most stable (and hotter) forecast of the trip, Eric and I climbed the spectacular arête of The Naked Edge (5.11b, 6 pitches). Although all the routes I climbed in Eldorado Canyon were great, this was probably the prize of the trip.

Thanks Stuart, Patrik, and Eric for the fun days of climbing in the Canyon. I'll be back for sure.
The entrance to Eldorado Canyon. Ahh...warm sunny rock ahead!
Stuart leading the second pitch of C'est La Vie on Redgarden Wall, which goes up a huge dihedral. The 5.11c crux is only about 10 feet above the belay.
Taken at the top of the second pitch of C'est La Vie.
The towering Bastille. We wanted to climb the NW Corner route but had to bail when there were too many parties ahead. Eldorado Canyon is is a popular weekend destination, and The Bastille is perhaps the most popular crag in the Canyon.
Fun 10c climbing on the crux left-leaning crack near the top of March of Dimes on The Bastille. We tacked this short pitch onto the last pitch of Werk Supp.
Looking up the Naked Edge on Redgarden Wall, perhaps THE route of the Canyon. Eric and I climbed this route a couple of days later.
Looking down at the parking lot at the entrance of Eldorado Canyon. It's a popular place, and rightly so.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: August 11, 2014 (Mon)
Partners: Patrik Larsson (all day) & Eric Schweitzer (morning)
Climbed at: Redgarden Wall, The Bastille
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Rebuffat's Arête via Rewritten 1p: 5.7
• Rewritten (Pitches 2-4) P2: 5.6, P3: 5.6, P4: 5.7
• Bastille Crack (Pitches 1&2) P1: 5.7+, P2: 5.6
• Green Spur, The (Pitches 1&2) P1: 5.5, P2: 5.9
• Darkness 'Til Dawn (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10a
• Outer Space 2p: 5.10b, 5.10b
The second day I climbed at Eldo. During my 2014 climbing road trip through Colorado. The next day we climbed the Naked Edge.
Looking up Bastille Crack on The Bastille, perhaps the most popular climb in the Canyon. It is really fun 5.6-5.8 climbing. When we saw no other parties on it c decided it would make a great warm-up and allow us to get up to the two-pitch Outer Space route (10b), another Canyon classic I'd had my eye on.
The 10b corner on the first pitch of Outer Space on The Bastille. You know a route is popular/great when you can see the chalk marks from the ground.
Eric leading the second pitch of Outer Space. This starts with a wonderfully-exposed 10b traverse.
Looking over at the Naked Edge on Redgarden Wall.
Another photo of the Naked Edge. Eric and I were psyched to climb it the next day. It would be a challenge for sure.
There are some cables on top of the Bastille. These cables were actually installed in 1907, when high wire daredevil Ivy Baldwin strung a cable across the mouth of the canyon, stabilizing it with 32 ropes. It was 582 feet in height and 632 feet across. On June 7, 1907, he made his first walk across the canyon. He thrilled the crowds with his high-wire walks 88 times. He also walked the cable backwards on several occasions. His last trip across the canyon was on his 82nd birthday, July 31, 1948.
When nature calls, keep nature clean!
Looking up the 5.9 crux pitch of Green Spur on Redgarden Wall. The climbing on this pitch is sustained and technical.
Looking up Darkness 'Til Dawn on Redgarden Wall. Despite the hot sun on the route, we ended the day by climbing this 4-star route. The climbing was sustained 10a and interesting the whole way up. Great route.
Another photo of the Naked Edge as we passed it on the way back to the parking lot. Tomorrow....

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 6, 2018 (Fri)
Partners: Alex Haeger, Penny (woof)
Climbed at: Shirt Tail Peak, The West Ridge, The Bastille
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Gambit 4p: 5.5, 5.8, 5.7, 5.6
• Positively 4th Street 1p: 5.9
• Blind Faith 2p: 5.10a, 5.9
• Handcracker Direct 5p: 5.9-, 5.9, 5.8, 5.10a, 5.4
The fourth day I climbed at Eldo. During my 2018 climbing road trip through Colorado.
Below is the original intro for this page, when I thought I would visit Eldo only twice...
In July 2018, I climbed in Colorado for just over three weeks. During this time I climbed for three days at Eldorado Canyon. The first two of these days were near the beginning of my trip. I had a few days between climbing adventures in the Black Canyon and Mt. Evans, and Tony Bubb (who I had climbed with in the Black Canyon for a couple of days) had generously offered to let me stay at his house during this time, so this was a great opportunity to crag for a day or two in Eldorado Canyon. The first day I climbed with local Alex Haeger, who had responded to my mountainproject post for a partner. The second day I climbed with Tony; this was a real treat, since Tony has climbed probably over a thousand routes at Eldo and has put up numerous first ascents in the canyon. Over the course of these two days, I was reminded of how awesome (as well as humbling) the climbing is at Eldo. Then, a few weeks later, at the very end of my climbing trip to Colorado, I managed to squeeze in one more morning at Eldo, this time with a local named Zack, who saw my last-minute mountainproject post for a partner. I had actually met Zack a few years earlier at the Elephant's Perch in Idaho and it was cool to finally get to take him up on his offer to "climb together if I was ever passing by the Boulder area."

The first day, Alex and I climbed several 4-star moderate routes, most featuring steep and juggy cracks so typical of Eldo. And so fun to climb! By the time it got too hot to climb around 2pm, our total pitch count was 12 (but 8 with linking). Thanks Alex for showing me some of the classics!

The second day, Tony introduced me to three "best of" Eldo routes: Rincon, Over the Hill, and Chockstone. After being humbled by my lead of the first pitch of Rincon, I was happy to let Tony take the sharp end for the day while I enjoyed attempting to tronsite each route. Each of the routes we climbed is 2-3 pitches long according to the guidebook, but Tony-the-king-of-long-pitches had brought his 80m rope, and essentially led each route as one epic pitch (Rincon he broke into 2 pitches, but has climbed it as one in the past). Thanks Tony for rope-gunning some awesome Eldo routes!

The third day, Zack introduced me to some steep trad yet not crack-climbing classics like The Metamorphosis and Hair City. I loved the techy movement on these routes. Great job leading The Metamorphosis, Zack, that's a super heady lead!
Eldo is a super climbing-friendy place.
Entertaining climbing on Pitch 3 or 4 or Gambit on Shirt Tail Peak.
The best reason to climb Gambit is that it brings you to the top of Shirt Tail Peak, the highest summit in the canyon. The view is great.
Pitch 4 of Handcracker Direct on The West Ridge. This is the crux (10a) pitch up steep and juggy crack.
Positively 4th Street at The West Ridge - climb the crack or climb the face!
Blind Faith, a steep and long 10a hand crack with a couple of roofs on The Bastille. This was my favorite route of the day. Climbing it in the direct sun made it a grade harder.
Penny, Alex's shepherd-huskey mix, and the world's best crag dog. Penny enjoyed the day out as much as we did.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 7, 2018 (Sat)
Partner: Tony Bubb
Climbed at: Rincon Wall, The West Ridge
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Over the Hill 2p: 5.10b, 5.9
• Chockstone + Chock Suey variation for P3 3p: 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.10c
• Rincon 3p: 5.9+, 5.9-, 5.11a
The fifth day I climbed at Eldo. During my 2018 climbing road trip through Colorado.
Looking down Pitch 2 of Rincon on Rincon Wall.
Tony starting up Pitch 3 of Rincon (crux pitch).
Cool patterns from pine beetles. Doesn't quite make up for the destruction of the poor pine tree though.
Looking up Pitch 1 of Over the Hill on Rincon Wall, a nice open book style corner where you really have to trust your feet as you stem up.
Pitch 2 of Over the Hill, an awesome fingercrack splitting the steep face.
Thunderheads developing....do we have time for one more route....?
...we decided to climb one more route. Looking down Pitch 1 of Chockstone at the West Ridge. Fun stuff.
Pitch 2 of Chockstone. Techy.
Chock Suey variation to Pitch 3 of Chockstone.
Pretty purple flowers in the route Purple Haze.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Date: July 26, 2018 (Thu)
Partner: Zach Durbin
Climbed at: The Wind Tower, The Bastille
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Hair City (Pitch 1) 1p: 5.9
• Diffraction 1p: 5.10a
• Metamorphosis, The 1p: 5.10a R
• West Buttress Direct (Super Start + Original Aid Line) (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10b
• Chance of Rain 1p: 5.10c R
The sixth day I climbed at Eldo. During my 2018 climbing road trip through Colorado.
Diffraction on Wind Tower.
The Metamorphosis on Wind Tower.
Don't think I've ever come across this sort of pin/bolt before. On Diffraction on Wind Tower.
Nut placement.
West Buttress (Direct) Pitch 1 on The Bastille.
Toproping Chance of Rain on The Bastille. An appropriate route to finish with, given the afternoon rain clouds that were developing above....

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Dates: 2019
Partners: various
Climbed at: various
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Wind Ridge, The 3p: 5.6, 5.5, 5.6
• Rebuffat's Arête via Rewritten 1p: 5.7
• Rewritten (Pitches 2-4) P2: 5.6, P3: 5.6, P4: 5.7
• Bastille Crack (Pitches 1&2) P1: 5.7+, P2: 5.6
• Cave, The 1p: 5.8
• Great Zot, The 1p: 5.8
• Body Tremors 1p: 5.8R
• Breakfast in Bed 1p: 5.8+
• Star Wars 2p: 5.5. 5.8+
• Alice in Bucketland 3p: 5.8, 5.8+, 5.5
• Long John Wall 4p: 5.6, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.6
• Ruper 6p: 5.8, 5.8+, 5.7+, 5.7+, 5.6, 5.8
• Touch and Go 2p: 5.8, 5.9-
• Anthill Direct 5p: 5.8, 5.8, 5.6R, 5.6, 5.9-
• March of Dimes (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• Peanuts (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• Rover (Pitch 2) P2: 5.9
• Perversion 3p: 5.9, 5.7, 5.8
• Heavy Weather 4p: 5.9-, 5.9, 5.8+, 5.8
• Werk Supp 2p: 5.8, 5.9+
• West Buttress 4p: 5.9+, 5.9-, 5.7, 5.2
• Yellow Spur, The 6p: 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.9+, 5.6
• Grand Giraffe 6p: 5.8, 5.9, 5.5, 5.9+, 5.6R, 5.7
• Darkness 'Til Dawn (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10a
• Grand Course, The 1p: 5.10a
• Smoke and Mirrors 1p: 5.10a
• Rosy Crucifixion 3p: 5.10a, 5.9+, 5.9-
• Yellow Spur, The (Pitches 5 & 6) P5: 5.10b, P6: 5.6
• Outer Space 2p: 5.10b, 5.10b
• March of Dimes (Pitch 3) P3: 5.10c
• Grandmother's Challenge 2p: 5.8, 5.10c
• Captain Beyond 4p: 5.10a, 5.9+, 5.10c, 5.10b
• Three Old Farts, Young at Heart (Pitch 2) P2: 5.10d
• Super Slab 4p: 5.10d, 5.6, 5.8, 5.10d
• March of Dimes, Crack variation (Pitch 1) 1p: 5.11a
• Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 1p: 5.11a
• T2 6p: 5.11a, 5.7, 5.9, 5.8, 5.9-, 5.9
• Psychosis / Psychosis Direct (Pitches 1 & 3) P1: 5.10b, P3: 5.11a
• Sunset Boulevard 1p: 5.11b
• Suparete 1p: 5.11b
• Diving Board, The (Pitches 2&3) P2: 5.10c, P3: 5.11b
• Vertigo /w Vertigo Roof 4p: 5.9-, 5.9+, 5.11b, 5.11a
• Naked Edge, The 6p: 5.11a, 5.10b, 5.8+, 5.11b, 5.11b, 5.6
• Supremacy Crack 1p: 5.11c
• Mellow Yellow (Pitch 2) P2: 5.11c
• Yellow Fellow 1p: 5.11d
• Doub-Griffith, The 3p: 5.11a, 5.11a, 5.12a
Random photos from 2019 climbing at Eldo.
Vertigo (4p, 11b), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 1 (5.9-) of Vertigo, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 (5.9+) of Vertigo, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 3 (Crux 11b pitch) of Vertigo, Redgarden Wall. Pitch 4 Vertigo Roof (11a) above.
Michal hanging out at the belay at the top of Vertigo (4p, 11b), Redgarden Wall.
Body Tremors (5.8 R) Redgarden Wall.
Climber on Yellow Spur (5.9+), Redgarden Wall.
Michal on Pitch 1 (10b) of Outer Space, The Bastille.
Michal on Pitch 2 (10b) of Outer Space, The Bastille.
Leaves of three....
Suparete (11b), Redgarden Wall.
Michal leading off Pitch 3 (11c) of The Doub-Griffith, Redgarden Wall.
Michal leading off Pitch 3 (11c) of The Doub-Griffith, Redgarden Wall.
Knife-edge start of the descent from the top of Tower One, Redgarden Wall.
Looking up Pitch 2 (5.9+) of Work Supp, The Bastille.
Approach ramp to Ruper (6p, 5.8+), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 (5.8+) of Ruper, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 3 (5.9) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 3 (5.9) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 4 (5.8) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
Direct finish (5.9) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
That looks like a nice handhold....
Pitch 2 (5.8) of Long John Wall, The West Ridge.
Brad cruising up Pitch 2 (10d) of Three old Farts, Young at Heart, Redgarden Wall.
Another bomber Eldo nut placement....
Pitch 4 (5.8+) on Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall.
Michael on Pitch 4 (5.8+ on Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall.
Michael leading the Robbins Traverse (5.7+ PG13) on Pitch 5 (5.9+) of Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall. You can see how the route got its name.
Fun exposed arete climbing on Pitch 6 (5.6 R) of Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall.
Topping out on Yellow Spur (6p, 5.9+), Redgarden Wall.
The fractured start of Pitch 2 (10c) of The Diving Board, Redgarden Wall.
The corner of Pitch 2 (10c) of The Diving Board, Redgarden Wall.
Birds eye view of The Bastille from high on Redgarden Wall.
Kishen dancing up the stellar Pitch 4 (5.10d) of Super Slab, Redgarden Wall.
Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c), Redgarden Wall.
The Grand Course (5.10a), Redgarden Wall.
Tom getting psyched to lead Disappearing Act (5.11a), Redgarden Wall.
Darkness Til' Dawn (5.10a), Redgarden Wall.
Fun crack on The Great Zot (5.8), Redgarden Wall.
Old eyebolt rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2 of Rewritten (5.7), Redgarden Wall.
Fun crack on Pitch 4 of Rewritten (5.7), Redgarden Wall.
A view of The West Ridge and Redgarden Wall from Peanuts Area.
Peanuts (5.9), Peanuts Area.
Fun corner climbing on Star Wars (5.8+), Peanuts Area.
Pitch 2 of Heavy Weather (5.9), Peanuts Area.
Pitch 3 of Heavy Weather (5.9), Peanuts Area.
Pitch 4 of Heavy Weather (5.9), Peanuts Area.
Natalie cruising up Supremacy Crack (5.11c), Supremacy Crack, Quartzite Area.
Brad on Pitch 1 of Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a), Redgarden Wall.
Brad on Pitch 1 of Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a), Redgarden Wall.
Brad on the Pitch 2 crux of Alice in Bucketland (5.8+), Redgarden Wall.
Morning sun on the Naked Edge (11b), Redgarden Wall.
On the approach to Mickey Mouse Wall.
On the approach to Mickey Mouse Wall.
Giles starting up Pitch 1 of Captain Beyond (5.10c), Mickey Mouse Wall.
Splitter finger crack on Pitch 2 of Captain Beyond (5.10c), Mickey Mouse Wall.
Giles starting up Pitch 1 of Perversion (5.9), Mickey Mouse Wall.
The party ahead of us on Pitch 3 corner of of Perversion (5.9), Mickey Mouse Wall.
Pitch 1 (5.8) of Grand Giraffe / Ruper, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 (5.9) of Grand Giraffe, Redgarden Wall.
The offwidth Pitch 4 (5.9+) of Grand Giraffe, Redgarden Wall.
Looking down the offwidth of Pitch 4 (5.9+) of Grand Giraffe, Redgarden Wall.
Climbers on Alice in Bucketland (5.8+), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 5 of Grand Giraffe, Redgarden Wall. May as well use the big cam you brought for the offwidth to protect the moderately-runnout 'Upper Giraffe' pitches.
The Wind Tower.
Late fall afternoon on top of The Wind Tower.
Topping out on Grand Giraffe (5.9+), Redgarden Wall. (Photo by Tom Wright.)
Definitely don't climb in the shade in the winter.
Pitch 2 of Anthill Direct (5.9-), Redgarden Wall. (This photo was taken on the same day as the previous one. Sunny routes are great in the winter.)
A late fall view out from Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 4 of Anthill Direct (5.9-), Redgarden Wall.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Dates: 2020
Partners: various
Climbed at: various
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Washington Irving (Pitch 1) P1: 5.6-
• Calypso 1p: 5.6
• Duh Dihedral 1p: 5.6
• Recon P1: 5.4, P2: 3rd; P3: 5.6, P4: 5.4; P5: 5.3; P6: 3rd
• West Overhang (Pitch 2) P2: 5.7
• Across the River From Butt Hair (Pitch 1) P1: 5.8
• Reggae 1p: 5.8
• Chianti 2p: 5.8+, 5.8+
• Unsaid, The 1p: 5.9-
• Sister Morphine 1p: 5.9-
• Funeral March 1p: 5.9-
• Pony Express (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• Fine Line 1p: 5.9
• Pygmy Pony 1p: 5.9
• Green Spur, The 5p: 5.5, 5.9, 3rd, 5.9, 5.6
• Yellow Spur, The 6p: 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.9+, 5.6
• White Lightning (aka Handcrack) 1p: 5.10a
• Break on Through 2p: 5.8, 5.10b
• Zap Snack 1p: 5.10c
• Tagger 2p: 5.9, 5.10c
• Terminal Velocity 1p: 5.11b
Random photos from 2020 climbing at Eldo.
Wintertime creek crossing to get to The West Ridge.
The Unsaid (5.9-), The West Ridge.
Pitches 1+2 on The Green Spur (5.9), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 on The Yellow Spur (5.9), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 5 on The Yellow Spur (5.9), Redgarden Wall.
Steph just about to top out on The Yellow Spur (5.9), Redgarden Wall.(Photo by Tom Wright.)
On top of The Yellow Spur (5.9), Redgarden Wall.
Will cruising up Calypso (5.6), The Wind Tower.
Fun roof on West Overhang Pitch 2 (5.7), The Wind Tower.
The green-purple offset cam was made for this pocket.
Climbing safety in the Covid era.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Dates: 2021
Partners: various
Climbed at: various
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Wind Ridge, The 3p: 5.6, 5.5, 5.6
• Bastille Crack (all pitches) 5p: 5.7+, 5.6, 5.7, 5.6, 5.5
• Five Eight Crack 1p: 5.8
• Cave, The 1p: 5.8
• Bulge, The 4p: 5.6, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8
• Allosaur 3p: 5.7R, 5.8+, 5.9
• Rincon (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9+
• Morning Thunder 1p: 5.9+
• C'est La Vie Pitch 1 + Arete Variation 2p: 5.9+, 5.8+
• Xanadu 1p: 5.10a
• Darkness 'Til Dawn (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10a
• Grand Course, The 1p: 5.10a
• Five Ten Crack 1p: 5.10a
• Blind Faith 2p: 5.10a, 5.9
• Handcracker Direct 5p: 5.9-, 5.9, 5.8, 5.10a, 5.4
• Chockstone (Pitches 1&2) 2p: 5.10a, 5.10a
• West Buttress Direct (Super Start + Original Aid Line) (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10b
• Tagger 2p: 5.9, 5.10c
• Rain 1p: 5.10d
• Naked Edge, The 6p: 5.11a, 5.10b, 5.8+, 5.11b, 5.11b, 5.6
• Pansee Sauvage 1p: 5.11b R
Random photos from 2021 climbing at Eldo.
Pitch 1 of Allosaur on The West Ridge.
Pitch 2 of Allosaur on The West Ridge.
Pitch 3 of Allosaur on The West Ridge.
Giles leading the short and sweet Morning Thunder (5.9+) on the lower West Ridge.
Pitch 1 of Handcracker (10a) on The West Ridge.
Pitch 4 of Handcracker (10a) on The West Ridge.
Michael starting up Darkness ’Til Dawn on Redgarden Wall.
The Grand Course on Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 of Tagger on The Wind Tower.
Bucket seat move at start of final pitch of The West Ridge on The Wind Tower.
Five Ten Crack (5.10a) at Rincon Wall.
Xanadu (5.10a) at The West Ridge.
Kristen leading Chockstone (5.10a) at The West Ridge.
Zach leading C'est La Vie Pitch 1 (5.9+) on Redgarden Wall.
C'est La Vie Pitch 1 (5.9+) + Arete Variation (5.8+) on Redgarden Wall.
Some healthy poison ivy at the base of Redgarden Wall.
Watercress.
Will leading Pitch 2 of The Bulge (4p, 5.7) on Redgarden Wall.
Fun crack climbing on Pitch 1 of Bastille Crack (5p, 5.7) on The Bastille. We linked pitches to climb the route as two long pitches.
Fun crack climbing on Pitch 3 of Bastille Crack (5p, 5.7) on The Bastille. We linked pitches to climb the route as two long pitches.
Splitter hand crack of Blind Faith (2p, 5.10a) on The Bastille.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Dates: 2022
Partners: various
Climbed at: various
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Bastille Crack (Pitch 1) P1: 5.7+
• V3 1p: 5.8
• Gonzo 2p: 5.8, 5.8
• Flakes, The 1p: 5.8+
• Chianti 2p: 5.8+, 5.8+
• Fine Line 1p: 5.9
• Out to Lunge (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• March of Dimes (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• Hair City (Pitch 1) 1p: 5.9
• Positively 4th Street 1p: 5.9
• Werk Supp 2p: 5.8, 5.9+
• C'est La Vie Pitch 1 + Arete Variation 2p: 5.9+, 5.8+
• White Lightning (aka Handcrack) 1p: 5.10a
• March of Dimes, Arete variation (Pitch 1) 1p: 5.10a
• Deviant 1p: 5.10a
• Blind Faith 2p: 5.10a, 5.9
• Handcracker Direct 5p: 5.9-, 5.9, 5.8, 5.10a, 5.4
• West Buttress Direct (Super Start + Original Aid Line) (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10b
• West Face (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10b
• Break on Through 2p: 5.8, 5.10b
• March of Dimes (Pitch 3) P3: 5.10c
• Northcutt Start 1p: 5.10d
• King's X (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10d
• March of Dimes, Crack variation (Pitch 1) 1p: 5.11a
• Terminal Velocity 1p: 5.11b
• Parallels 1p: 5.11b
• Heartbreaker 1p: 5.11b
• C'est La Vie (Pitch 2) P2: 5.11b
• Pansee Sauvage 1p: 5.11b R
• Foxtrot 1p: 5.11d
Random photos from 2022 climbing at Eldo.
In spring the water really rages.
Erika leading Pitch 1 of Chianti (5.8+, 2p) at The West Ridge.
Zach leading Hair City Pitch 1 (5.9) on The Bastille. One of the best pitches of its grade at Eldo.
Greg leading Pitch 1 (5.9) of Out To Lunge on The Bastille.
Nice pocket for a #1 cam on leading Pitch 1 (5.9) of Out To Lunge on The Bastille.
This used to be a handhold. Found at the base of March of Dimes on The Bastille.
Werk Supp Pitch 2 (5.9+) on The Bastille.
A nice summer evening at Eldo. Climbers on Naked Edge.
Blind Faith (5.10a, 2p) on on The Bastille. Always a fun evening lap.
Fun crack climbing on Handcracker Direct (5.10a, 5p) on The West Ridge.
Erin enjoying Pitch 4 (crux pitch) of Handcracker Direct (5.10a, 5p) on The West Ridge.
Left: Gonzo (5.8, 2p). Right: V3 (5.8, 1p). At Cadillac Crag.
Left: Gonzo (5.8, 2p). Right: V3 (5.8, 1p). At Cadillac Crag.
Fun corner of V3 (5.8, 1p) at Cadillac Crag.
Remnants of an old tree growing out of a crack in the rock.
Terminal Velocity (5.11b, 1p) and White Lightning (5.10a, 1p) at The West Ridge. A fun October after work session.
Fun crack climbing on White Lightning (5.10a, 1p) at The West Ridge.
Toproping Terminal Velocity (5.11b, 1p) at The West Ridge.
A productive after-work session climbing Parallels (5.11b) (left crack) and Foxtrot (5.11d) (right crack with Molly leading) at The West Ridge.

More climbing fun!
More climbing fun!
Dates: 2024
Partners: various
Climbed at: various
Routes (ordered by grade): 
• Duh Dihedral 1p: 5.6
• Mesca-Line 1p: 5.7+
• Cave, The 1p: 5.8
• Sooberb Lite 3p: 5.7, 5.8, 5.7
• Long John Wall 4p: 5.6, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.6
• Sister Morphine 1p: 5.9-
• Pony Express (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9
• Positively 4th Street 1p: 5.9
• Allosaur 3p: 5.7R, 5.8+, 5.9
• White Lightning (aka Handcrack) 1p: 5.10a
• Xanadu 1p: 5.10a
• Chockstone + Chock Suey variation for P3 3p: 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.10c
• Terminal Velocity 1p: 5.11b
• Naked Edge, The 6p: 5.11a, 5.10b, 5.8+, 5.11b, 5.11b, 5.6
• Iron Horse (Pitch 1) P1: 5.11c
Random photos from 2024 climbing at Eldo.
Will leading Allosaur Pitch 1 (5.7 R) at The West Ridge.
Pony Express Pitch 1 (5.9) at The West Ridge. A classic 5.9 lead.
Sister Morphine (5.9-) at The West Ridge.
Pitch 2 of Long John Wall (5.8+) at The West Ridge.
Pitch 3 of Long John Wall (5.8+) at The West Ridge.
Wild flake on Pitch 2 of Sooberb (5.8) at The West Ridge.
Pony Express Pitch 1 (5.9), Iron Horse Pitch 1 (5.11c), and Mesca-Line (5.7+) at The West Ridge. I led Mesca-Line and we toproped the other two.
Mesca-Line (5.7+) at The West Ridge. Fun. Earns the +.
Iron Horse Pitch 1 (5.11c), a fun torpope challenge at The West Ridge.
Positively Fourth Street (5.9), a short steep and juggy classic at The West Ridge.
White Lightning (5.10a), a classic crack climb on The West Ridge.
Chockstone Pitch 1 (5.10a, 3p), another classic crack climb on The West Ridge.
Chockstone Pitch 2 (5.10a, 3p), another classic crack climb on The West Ridge.
Chop Suey (5.10c), a nice alternative to the easy third pitch of finish Chockstone (5.10a, 3p). The West Ridge.
Nate leading Positively Fourth Street (5.9), another classic crack climb on The West Ridge.

List of Climbs I've done at Eldo

LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

Previous and Next Adventures

(August 2014: First time cragging at Eldorado Canyon and climbing Naked Edge)

Longs Peak, The Diamond, & The Spearhead, CO
Cirque of the Towers (Warrior I, Pingora, Warbonnet, Sundance), WY

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

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