Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: July 7, 2021 (Wed); Partner: Lynn Anderson
- Date: September 9, 2022 (Fri); Partner: toprope solo
Route Overlay
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Intro
Located on the far right side of the Black Wall, this route is one of the longer routes up the wall. The route features a wide variety of corners, laybacks, splitter cracks, knobby face, and more, all up great alpine rock. The route is fairly sustained at 5.9 and each pitch has some 5.10 to 5.10+ climbing on it.
Lynn and I had actually attempted to climb Rainbow Highway a couple of weeks previous to our successful ascent, but the top rappel anchor had been buried behind a mound of snow; so we had climbed Good Evans instead, and made plans to return for Rainbow Highway. We returned two weeks later. Lynn and I thought this was a superb route, despite the fact that about a third of the route was a tad wet (mainly on Pitches 1, 4, and 7). We maximized our climbing on dry rock by traversing left at Pitch 4 and and climbing the steep 5.12 fingercrack of Sinners on Sunday for a pitch. Someday I will return to climb this superb route again (including the awesome-looking Pitch 4 corner) when it is completely dry. It's certainly worth climbing again.
I climbed Rainbow Highway a second time in September 2022. It was a Friday and I had the day off work, and I wanted to squeeze in at least one more Black Wall day before the summer was over. I didn't have a partner, but I got the crazy idea to go rope solo Rainbow Highway. When Lynn and I had climbed the route the previous July, it had a few sections that were wet (including the Pitch 4 corner which we bypassed), so I had always wanted to return and climb the route when it was dry. I brought 4 ropes (two 60 m and two 70 m, totaling 860 feet and 33 lbs of rope—my pack was quite stuffed and heavy!), and fixed them on the way down at the anchors at the tops of Pitches 7, 6, 4, and 2. This made for four rope solo pitches with lengths of about 170 feet (P1+P2), 220 feet (P3+P4), 220 feet (P5+P6), and 120 feet (P7), for a total of 730 vertical feet of climbing (note that two 70 m ropes are required to be able to reach the P4 and P2 anchors). I had to place a few directional slings on bolts (namely, at the top of the P4 corner and on the diagonal traverse on P2), but otherwise the route is mostly straight up. One of the things I had worried about was pulling up the rope, but fortunately there were nice ledges at all of the fixed anchors, so I was able to pile the rope on the ledges, and never have to pull the weight of more than a single rope. It took me 40 minutes to rap down to the base and set my 4 fixed ropes, and it took me 1 hour 42 minutes to climb up the 7 pitches, with just short stops at all of the fixed anchors. This was a surprisingly fun way to climb Rainbow Highway and much better than just doing autobelays at the climbing gym. Now that I know it takes just over 2 hours to fix the ropes and climb back up cleaning the ropes as I go, next time I will climb the route twice, taking advantage of being able to climb the route in one continuous 7-pitch push without worrying about pulling up the ropes.
Pitch-by-Pitch Photos
Approach
2nd
Different then the approach for Good Evans, Cary Granite, and Road Warrior.
The route is located on the far right side of the Black Wall. A popular option for getting to the route is to rappel from bolted anchors (double ropes) on the route. (Apparently it is possible to rappel with a single 70, but this would entail using some anchors from other routes, and we were not sure enough of where these were to attempt it.)
Pitch 1
5.10+, 80'
Start up a shallow, left-facing corner. Above the corner, climb an arch to its apex, then face climb up to a small, bushy ledge above below another arch. This is the only gear belay on the route.
Pitch 2
5.10-, 90'
Climb straight up off the belay and climb face moves past a couple of bolts. Continue up a left-facing corner to a bolted anchor on a nice ledge to the left.
Pitch 3
5.10, 140'
Climb up and right through a lower angle and vegetated section, aiming for the obvious, huge corner system above. Climb a crack system on the wall just left of the corner, ending at a bolted belay at a stance on the right.
Pitch 4
5.10+, 120'
Jam, lieback, stem, and face climb up the huge dihedral above. Climb out the left side of a roof and traverse left past a bolt and gain a nice ledge system and bolted belay.
Variation: 5.12, 120' (Sinners on Sunday). Climb the finger crack that is about 50 feet left of the Pitch 4 corner of Rainbow Highway. In July 2021, Lynn and I chose to go this way because the corner was soaking wet. The climbing was awesome, but quite sustained at the grade, which meant that this pitch didn't go quite free by either one of us. There is a three-bolt face traverse to get to the anchor below the finger crack. The finger crack ends at the same bolted belay as Pitch 4 of Rainbow Highway.
Pitch 5
5.10-, 100'
Traverse left to a hand crack around the corner. Climb the crack and follow the weakness back right into a left facing flake/crack. Continue up this feature to its top. From there, climb a chickenhead face with two bolts, traverse back left on horizontals, and finish on a jam crack to the bolted anchor.
Pitch 6
5.10+, 120'
Climb the face above the belay on chickenheads, with two bolts for protection. Climb through an obvious break in a small roof, and then traverse left to gain a thin crack. Continue up the crack and left and over a flake/block and then up a short arete to a nice ledge and bolted belay.
Pitch 7
5.10-, 130'
Climb up, navigating chickenheads, horizontals, and blocky steps. There are a couple of bolts on this pitch. This pitch is often wet and it is possible to head right to somewhat easier (but not drier) terrain after the first bolt. Belay from the top rappel anchor, which is on a boulder back a ways from the top of the cliff.
Top
Yay! Say hi to the marmots. Hopefully they did not eat all of your spare snacks.
Hike Out
2nd
The awesome thing about climbing on the Black Wall is you sort of make the descent before you do the climb. Hike back the way you came.
(other trip reports may have more photos of the hike out, but it is pretty much just a reverse of the hike in)
Previous and Next Adventures
Trip Report 1
Trip Report 2