Longs Peak, Kiener’s (4th)

Longs Peak

Route:

Kiener's

4th

- Route up: Kiener's (4th)
- Route down: Cables Route on North Face (5.4)

A fun fitness morning solo lap of Longs.

The trip report on this page represents the 15th time I have visited the summit of Longs Peak.

Region: Colorado
Elev: 14,259 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): July 27, 2022 (Wed)
Partner(s): solo

Route Overlays

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Map

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Intro

Nate and I had planned to embark on a midweek climb of The Diamond, but he had some last minute work obligations. So I regrouped and decided to do a solo link-up on Longs. Now that most of the early-summer snow had melted, it was a good time for a Kiener's to Cables lap. I would take Kiener's up and Cables Route on the North Face down.

Also known as the Mountaineer's Route, Kiener's is the easiest continuous line on the east face of Longs Peak. I had climbed the upper section of Kiener's multiple times after ascents of the Diamond, but had never climbed the route from its start at Mills Glacier. The route follows a series of chimneys and ramps that delineate the upper left margin of the Diamond. By late summer, the route above Lambs Slide is snow free and Lambs Slide is just hard-packed snow that is easy to ascend with crampons.

The Cables Route on the North Face is the most direct of all the moderate routes on Longs Peak, and is a popular descent route. The Cables Route is a good snow climb in the winter and spring, and a good scramble (mostly 3rd with a short 5.4 section) in the summer. Previous to this trip report, I had descended the Cables Route multiple times after ascents of the Diamond (usually my partner and I rappelled the 5.4 section although once we downclimbed it), but didn't have an official trip report for the route. (Update: I now have ascended Cables Route, in both the winter and summer; click link for trip reports.)

Kiener's up and Cables down was quite an enjoyable morning lap of Longs. The entire adventure took me 5 hours and 45 minutes, my quickest time to date for a car-to-car summit of Longs Peak.

The following page gives overlays and photos from the adventure. Enjoy.

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 6:50 am
Base of Lambs Slide: 8:54 am
Summit: 10:17 am
Chasm View (base of Cables Route on North Face): 10:48 am
Longs Peak Trailhead: 12:35 pm
TOTALS: 3:27 up, 2:18 down (car-to-car: 5:45) (at this time this was my quickest car-to-car time to date, but I did it faster on my Cables Route ascent in July 2024; however 2:18 remained my quickest summit-to-car time).

Photos

Kiener's Route

4th
Begin from the south side of Mills Glacier. Ascend Lambs Slide (crampons and light axe useful). About 200 feet before reaching the top of the couloir, exit right and gain the south end of Broadway. Traverse Broadway to the right for about 1000 feet to reach the bottom of the Notch Couloir. This traverse is fairly easy except for an exposed step-around above Hornsby's Direct Finish. Cross under the base of the Notch Couloir, and ascend the other side to about 50 feet above Broadway. From here, there are lots of options, but the basic idea is to climb up chimneys and corners, keeping it no more than 4th class, until the terrain eases up to 3rd class. (I did manage to keep it to 4th, although some sources list Kiener's as 5.4 for this section; there are certainly 5th class options, but 4th class can always be found.) From here, head up toward a reddish buttress on the upper right skyline, above the Diamond. This is mostly 3rd class with an occasional move of 4th class. Near the reddish buttress on the skyline, mantle over some ledges, and traverse right around the red buttress on a good ledge. Turn west and scramble 200 feet up talus to the summit.

Top!

The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! And the crowds.

Descent via the Cables Route on the North Face

5.4
The 5.4 section of the route is about 150 feet of right-facing dihedral. Otherwise, this route is mostly 3rd class.

By descent: From the summit of Longs Peak, descend 3rd class, aiming for Chasm View. An eyebolt marks the top of the dihedral. Carefully downclimb (or make two rappels off eyebolts if you have a rope; I downclimbed). The terrain eases at a slab. The route ends at Chasm View, where once can gaze out at the towering walls of the Diamond.

By ascent: If using the Cables Route for ascent rather than descent, pretty much reverse the descent. Starting at Chasm View, climb a moderate slab and then the right-facing dihedral for 150 feet to an eyebolt and easier ground. Scramble south up 3rd class slabs and boulders to the summit.

Click this link to go to a trip report for a solo summer ascent of the Cables Route, which includes some history of why the route is called Cables.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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