Longs Peak, Cables Route on North Face (5.4, summer)

Longs Peak

Route:

Cables Route on North Face

5.4 (summer) or M2 (winter or spring)

Winter: My first winter ascent and second spring ascent of Longs Peak.
Spring: My second spring ascent of Longs Peak.
Summer: A summer morning solo lap of Longs.
Summer: Sunrise from the summit.


The trip reports on this page represent the 19th and 21st and 24th and 25th times I have visited the summit of Longs Peak.

Region: Colorado
Elev: 14,259 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Winter: Cables up, Cables down
Date(s): February 1, 2024 (Thu)
Partner(s): Lisa Foster, Tommy Campbell
Trip Report 2:
Spring: Cables up, Cables down
Date(s): April 12, 2024 (Fri)
Partner(s): Lisa Foster
Trip Report 3:
Summer: Cables up, Keyhole down
Date(s): June 25, 2024 (Tue)
Partner(s): solo
Trip Report 4:
Summer: Cables up, Cables down
Date(s): July 8, 2024 (Mon)
Partner(s): solo

Route Overlay  - Summer Ascents

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Route Overlays - Winter or Spring Ascents

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Map

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Trip Reports for Cables Route

CLICK ON TRIP REPORT TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

Intro

The last week of January 2024 had record-breaking spring-like temperatures in Colorado, with highs near the 70's in Boulder and 60's in Estes Park. The warm weather lasted only a few days, from Monday to Thursday. I was going a bit stir crazy sitting inside working. So when Lisa Foster invited me to join her and her friend Tommy on a winter ascent of Longs Peak on Thursday (they had a third who couldn't make it last minute), I was all in.

This climb marked my first winter ascent of Longs Peak and my 19th time to the summit of Longs Peak (all previous ascents had been in the summer, via various routes, including multiple times via the vertical face of the Diamond). But for Lisa, who had done over 200 (!) ascents of Longs Peak, this climb marked her 50th month (!) in a row summiting Longs Peak. (She actually holds the record for consecutive months, having surpassed legendary climber Jim Detterline’s record of 30 months long ago. Quite impressive. Especially since for a good proportion of the year conditions can be rather gnarly on Longs.)

We climbed the Cables Route on the North Face of Longs, which is the most common ascent route in the winter. This route is the most direct of all the moderate routes on Longs Peak, and is mostly 3rd class apart from a short technical crux (5.4 in summer, usually M2 in winter). It is a popular descent route since you can keep it at 3rd class if you rappel from eyebolts to get past the crux. There was just a little ice on the route and the temperatures were mild, so I felt like I got off easy for my first winter ascent of Longs. Tommy led the roped pitch. We basked in the sun on the summit for almost an hour.

(Note: Although I had never ascended the Cables Route before this trip report, I have descended it several times. Two of these times are documented in trip reports—Kiener's to Cables Route link-up in July 2022 and Meeker to Longs link-up in August 2022—since both these times I solo downclimbed the route rather than rappelled past the crux. In the summer of 2024, I soloed the Cables Route multiple times (a couple of those times later on this page).

Our entire adventure took just over 12 hours car to car. It was an awesome day out, the kind of day I wish I could repeat over and over. Thanks Lisa and Tommy for inviting me along!

The following page gives overlays and photos from my first winter ascent of Longs Peak. Enjoy.

Update: The following month, March 2024, I joined Lisa for her 51st month in a row climbing Longs Peak. We climbed the Keyhole Route. It was technically early spring but conditions were more wintery than on the Cables ascent in February.

Time Stats

Times
Leave Longs Peak Trailhead: 3:00 am
Arrive at Chasm View (just below base of technical climbing): 7:55 am
Start climbing Cables Route: 9:02 am
Arrive on Summit: 10:31 am
Leave Summit: 11:20 am
Arive back at Chasm View: 12:20 pm
Longs Peak Trailhead: 3:25 pm
Splits
Longs Peak Trailhead to base of Cables Route: 4 hours 55 min
Climb Cables Route to Summit: 1 hour 29 min
Basking in sun and views on summit: 49 min
Descent from Summit back to Chasm View: 1 hour
Chasm View to Longs Peak Trailhead: 2 hours 40 min
Total car-to-car (includes breaks and gearing up): 12 hours 25 min

Photos

Intro

This was the third month in a row that I joined Lisa for her monthly ascent of Longs Peak (her 52nd month in a row!). It had been a cold but sunny week, and snow was quite stable in the mountains. The forecast was stellar. A perfect time to climb the Cables Route!

We left the Longs Peak trailhead at 1:30am. It was a touch windy on the approach, but nothing out of the ordinary. By the time we started to climb, the north face was basking in the sun. Snow conditions were perfect (where was everyone?). We enjoyed a long break on the summit. Our entire adventure took just under 14 hours car to car. It was another awesome Longs day with Lisa!

Below are some photos from the climb. Several of them were taken by Lisa, with credit given (it's always great to have a partner who takes photos as well!).

Time Stats

Times
Leave Longs Peak Trailhead: 1:35 am
Arrive at base of North Face: 7:43 am
Start climbing Cables Route: 8:17 am
Arrive on Summit: 10:01 am
Leave Summit: 10:45 am
Arive back at Chasm View: 12:19 pm
Longs Peak Trailhead: 3:25 pm
Splits
Longs Peak Trailhead to base of Cables Route: 6 hours 8 min
Climb Cables Route to Summit: 1 hour 44 min
Basking in sun and views on summit: 44 min
Descent from Summit back to Chasm View: 1 hour 34 min
Chasm View to Longs Peak Trailhead: 3 hours 6 min
Total car-to-car (includes breaks and gearing up): 13 hours 50 min

Photos

Intro

I had summited Longs Peak in February (this page), March, April, and May. It was the last week of June and I had a free day. I decided to keep my month streak going.

I decided to ascend Longs via the Cables Route on the North Face. I had climbed this route in February and April, downclimbed it a few times (Kiener's to Cables link-up in July 2022 or Meeker to Longs link-up in August 2022) in the summer, but never climbed up it in summer conditions. The Cables Route is one of the most direct routes on Longs Peak. It is fairly moderate, being mostly 3rd with a short 5.4 section.

For a nice loop, I decided to descend via the popular Keyhole Route (3rd) rather than to reverse my route up the Cables Route (which would have been a bit quicker). The entire adventure took me 6 hours and 16 minutes car to car. I acheived my fastest ascent time to date (3 hours and 9 minutes). However, I had previously achieved a faster car-to-car time of 5 hours and 45 minutes when I climbed Kiener's (4th) up (3 hours and 27 minutes) and downclimbed the Cables Route (2 hours and 18 minutes). This suggests that if I just did the Cables Route up and down, I could beat my fastest car to car time easily. I guess I will have to do that.

The following page gives overlays and photos from my morning exercise lap of Longs Peak. It was a beautiful bluebird morning with not a cloud in the sky.

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 5:00 am
Chasm View (base of Cables Route): 7:40 am
Summit: 8:09 am
Keyhole: 9:02 am
Longs Peak Trailhead: 11:16 am
TOTALS: 3:09 up, 3:06 down (car-to-car: 6:16) 

Photos

Approach

2nd-3rd
From the Longs Peak Trailhead, hike up to Boulderfield, and from there to Chasm View below the Cables Route on the North Face.

Top!

14,259 feet
The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! And the crowds.

Intro

Perhaps half a dozen times in my life, I have been near the summit of a mountain at sunrise, and witnessed the phenomenon of the mountain shadow on the sky. The shadow appears as a sharp triangle. I got it my head that I wanted to stand on top of Longs Peak at sunrise, and capture this phenomenon.

What is the explanation for this phenomenon? Unlike ordinary two-dimensional shadows cast on the ground, mountain shadows are three-dimensional voids of shadowed air, sometimes stretching hundreds of miles. The triangular shape is not the mountain’s profile, but rather is caused by the lines of perspective of the edges of the region of shadowed air running back hundreds of miles through lighter illuminated atmosphere and tapering to a point. (This is similar to standing on a straight level road or train track and seeing it taper to a point on the horizon.) The shadow’s end provides information about the mountain’s shape, but this can be too small and indistinct to detect.
Reference: Livingston, William and Lynch, David. “Mountain Shadow Phenomena,” Applied Optics, Vol. 18, No. 3. February 1979. https://www.thulescientific.com/MountainShadow_Livingston&Lynch_AO_1979.pdf

It would have been ideal to wait for a stretch of warm summer weather, and enjoy a balmy and calm nighttime ascent of Longs. But sometimes availability and conditions don't quite perfectly align (plus I am impatient—or perhaps just excited—once I get an idea in my head), so instead I found myself ascending Longs Peak on one of the coldest nights of the summer, where temperatures were just below freezing. Plus, it had rained heavily the previous afternoon, and that combined with the freezing temperatures meant ice on my chosen line of ascent: the Cables Route. But other than the cold, it was a beautiful clear morning and I enjoyed being surrounded by bright stars peppering the night sky.

Since sunrise was at 5:40am, I left the trailhead shortly after 2am, figuring I could make the ascent in about 3 hours but wanting to give myself a little extra time to deal with ice on the route. I arrived on the summit shortly after 5am, and had to wait for about a half hour until sunrise began. I relished having the entire summit to myself to enjoy a spectacular sunrise.

This was my 25th ascent of Longs Peak. Despite the darkness and ice on route, this ended up being my fastest ascent time and overall (ascent+descent = 5:37) time to date. I was home before 9am. The Cables Route is the most direct way to the summit of Longs.

Below are some photos of sunrise and mountain shadow from the top of Longs Peak. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 1:57 am
Summit: 5:04-5:53 am (Sunrise 5:40 am)
Longs Peak Trailhead: 8:23 am
TOTALS: 3:07 up, 2:30 down (car-to-car: 5:37) (quickest car-to-summit and car-to-car time to date)

Photos

Approach

2nd-3rd
From the Longs Peak Trailhead, hike up to Boulderfield, and from there to Chasm View below the Cables Route on the North Face.
(no photos - it was dark)

Cables Route on the North Face

5.4
The 5.4 section of the route is about 150 feet of right-facing dihedral. Otherwise, this route is mostly 3rd class.
(no photos - it was dark; see descent photos since I descended the Cables Route in the daylight)

Top!

14,259 feet
The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. This was the first time I had ever been on the summit at sunrise. I had the summit to myself and enjoyed a gorgeous sunrise and peak shadow. I stayed up there for nearly an hour (I arrived on top 35 minutes before sunrise and had to wait—I wished I had brought a thermos of hot coffee!)

Historical Sidenote About the Cables Route

The Cables Route which I used for my ascent got its name from the fact that in 1925 and 1926, steel cables were installed on the slab above Chasm View, which eliminated the need for rope and belays; subsequently, the Cables Route became the standard route to the summit. The cables, and most of the eyebolts to which they were secured, were removed in 1973 in an effort to "naturalize the park". However, a few were left in place for belays and rappels. After that, the Keyhole Route (which I have also ascended and descended, click link for trip report), which is easier but longer, quickly became the most popular route on the mountain.

My Dad's First Backpacking Trip + A Poem About It

I always pass on my trip reports to my parents. My dad was particularly interested in this trip report, since the first "backpacking" (his words) trip my dad did was in 1972 (he was 22 years old at the time), to camp overnight in the Boulderfield on Longs Peak and climb the Cables Route with his friend Deisel. The cables were still present at the time.

My dad did not have a camera with him, but Deisel did. On a previous climb (July 2022) which had involved downclimbing the Cables Route, I had thought it would be cool to add some photos from their adventure in this trip report, but when my dad emailed Deisel he replied with: "Tell Steph I was so scared of climbing the Cable Route I took no pictures, except on the Boulder Field and at the summit."

But my Cables Route adventures inspired Deisel to write a poem marking the 50th anniversary of their Longs Peak climb. The poem is given to the right.
Sleeping at the Base of Longs Peak
In the Boulder Field, Mid-August 1972

- William Deisel Timmerman, August 2022

It was 50 years ago, as I remember it,
And, truth be told, much of it is not remembered,
When I went to sleep high up in a boulder field,
Woke up in the night under a full moon
To piss, and there I was on the moon,
The boulders all rounded and white like eggs.
I thought to myself, I must be sleeping on the moon.
In the morning humans awoke from between the boulders
All around us from their cocoon sleeping bags.
As I looked up to the summit of
Longs Peak, having never climbed a mountain
In my life, I remember thinking this is going to be
Great or sure as hell I am going to die today.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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