Longs Peak, Keyhole Ridge (5.5-5.6)

Longs Peak

Route:

Keyhole Ridge

5.5-5.6

- Route up: Keyhole Ridge (5.5-5.6)
- Route down: Keyhole Route (3rd) or Clark's Arrow to The Loft (3rd)

A fun fitness morning solo lap of Longs.

The trip reports on this page represent the 14th and 35th times I have visited the summit of Longs Peak.

Region: Colorado
Elev: 14,259 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Up Keyhole Ridge, down Keyhole Route
Date(s): July 21, 2022 (Thu)
Partner(s): solo
Trip Report 2:
Up Keyhole Ridge, down Clark's Arrow to Loft
Date(s): September 19, 2024 (Thu)
Partner(s): solo

Route Overlays

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Map

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Trip Reports for Keyhole Ridge

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Intro

Keyhole Ridge follows the spectacular and exposed northwest ridge of Longs Peak from the Keyhole to the summit. With about 1500 feet of 4th-low 5th climbing on perfect granite, the route makes a great technical summit route that is a good alternative to the standard 3rd class Keyhole Route (which I have done a couple of times as of this trip report). The route is usually done in five to seven roped pitches, or even soloed, depending on conditions and experience.

I am not generally in the habit of soloing 5th class, especially without a partner. But I suspected that this route—where the 5th class sections are moderate, short, and on solid rock—would be within my comfort zone. So I decided to check it out, with a backup plan to do the 3rd class Keyhole Route if I didn't like the looks of the 5th class soloing. I brought a pair of climbing shoes to make the 5th class scrambling feel more secure. I am glad I went for it, as I found the climbing to be enjoyable and super secure on great rock. And, admittedly, there is something cerebral about soloing, where mistakes just aren't allowed. It was a fun way to get to the summit of RMNP's highest peak. I'd do it again (and probably will). I descended via the Keyhole Route. The entire adventure took about 6.5 hours car-to-car.

The following page gives an overlay and photos from my morning adventure. Enjoy.

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 3:54 am
The Keyhole (start of route): 6:26 am
Summit: 7:38-7:42 am
Trailhead (decent via Keyhole Route): 10:28 am
TOTALS: 3:44 up, 2:46 down (6.5 hours)

Photos

Keyhole to False Keyhole

4th
From the Keyhole, scramble left for 600 feet on an exposed rising ramp to the False Keyhole, a wide notch in the ridge.

False Keyhole to Upper Notch

5.4
Climb the easy ridge above the False Keyhole to a gendarme with steeper rock. Here you have two options: (1) Stay on the left and climb up, head left on a ramp, climb straight up to the top of the gendarme and the ridge crest (5.4), and descend 10 feet down the west side of the ridge to a ridge system; or (2) Wrap right around the ridge and find a ramp system, some 5.4 required but seems less exposed. From either option, scramble up the ledge and then slabs to the base of the next steep ridge section and the last notch in the ridge. (I chose Option 2 after scoping out Option 1 and deciding the exposed 5.4 moves were a bit too consequential for soloing. Option 2 seemed easier overall.)

Upper Buttress

5.5 or 5.6
Scramble up an easy ramp on the left side of the ridge to the base of a steep buttress. For a harder pitch, climb an obvious crack (5.6) straight up. Or continue up the narrowing ramp until it's possible to climb directly up excellent granite (5.5) to the ridge crest. (I chose the 5.5 option.) The climbing is exposed but the rock is solid. The climbing gets easier as you near the crest. Scramble (some 4th) left along the crest to the upper ridge.

Upper Ridge

3rd
Follow the long, gently rising northwest ridge to the summit. This ridge is quite fun and airy. 

Summit

The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! And the crowds.

Descent via Keyhole Route

3rd
There are several options for decent. One option is the Keyhole Route (3rd) (this is the way I decided to go). Another option is the Cables Route, which entails downclimbing 5.4 (I've done this several times). A third option is Clark's Arrow to The Loft (3rd) (this is the way I went on my 2024 trip report for Keyhole Ridge).

(I have more photos of the Keyhole Route on other trip reports.)

Intro

RMNP had been enjoying a pleasant Indian Summer for most of September, but now that it was just a few days away from the official end to summer, the weather was about to change as well. I decided to take advantage of one of the last warmish and dry days on Longs, and solo the Keyhole Ridge (5.5-5.6) to the summit. I planned to take Clark's Arrow to the Loft (3rd) down, in hopes of finally locating Clark's Arrow carved into the rock.

(Clark's Arrow is a painted arrow on a rock and points climbers to the saddle (The Loft) between Longs Peak and Mt. Meeker. Ranger John Clark painted the arrow in the early days of the park (1923 according to ChatGTP) to help other climbers. The Rossiter guide book and a few other sources note that the arrow was likely swept away in some rockfall circa 2012. Some people have agreeed they cannot find it. But some have claimed it is still there. So I had to find out myself. And yes, it is still there! See the photos in this trip report.)

The following page gives an overlay and photos from my morning adventure. The late summer fall colors were beautiful. Enjoy!

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 5:30 am
The Keyhole (start of route): 8:08 am
Summit: 9:25-9:30 am
Trailhead (decent via Keyhole Route): 12:48 pm
TOTALS: 3:55 up, 3:18 down (7:13 total)

Photos

Keyhole to False Keyhole

4th
From the Keyhole, scramble left for 600 feet on an exposed rising ramp to the False Keyhole, a wide notch in the ridge.

False Keyhole to Upper Notch

5.4
Climb the easy ridge above the False Keyhole to a gendarme with steeper rock. Here you have two options: (1) Stay on the left and climb up, head left on a ramp, climb straight up to the top of the gendarme and the ridge crest (5.4), and descend 10 feet down the west side of the ridge to a ridge system; or (2) Wrap right around the ridge and find a ramp system, some 5.4 required but seems less exposed. From either option, scramble up the ledge and then slabs to the base of the next steep ridge section and the last notch in the ridge. (I chose Option 2, since this way seems easier and was the way I went in 2022.)

Upper Buttress

5.5 or 5.6
Scramble up an easy ramp on the left side of the ridge to the base of a steep buttress. For a harder pitch, climb an obvious crack (5.6) straight up. Or continue up the narrowing ramp until it's possible to climb directly up excellent granite (5.5) to the ridge crest. (I chose the 5.5 option.) The climbing is exposed but the rock is solid. The climbing gets easier as you near the crest. Scramble (some 4th) left along the crest to the upper ridge.

Upper Ridge

3rd
Follow the long, gently rising northwest ridge to the summit. This ridge is quite fun and airy. 

Summit

The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! And the crowds.

Descent via Clark's Arrow to The Loft 

3rd
There are several options for decent. One option is the Keyhole Route (3rd) (this is what I did on my July 2022 ascent of Keyhole Ridge). Another option is the Cables Route, which entails downclimbing 5.4 (I've done this several times). A third option—which I decided on this time—is Clark's Arrow to The Loft (3rd). I wanted to locate Clark's Arrow painted on the rock (I did!).

(I have more photos of Clark's Arrow + The Loft from a spring ascent in 2024.)

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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