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Longs Peak, Northwest Couloir (4th)

Longs Peak

Route:

Northwest Couloir

4th

Another moderate route up Longs, with a unique hole crawl-through.

The trip report on this page represents the 33rd time I have visited the summit of Longs Peak.

Region: Colorado
Elev: 14,259 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): August 23, 2024 (Fri)
Partner(s): solo

Related trip reports:

Route Overlays

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Longs, Keyboard of Winds, Pagoda

Map

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Map showing all the routes I've done to the top of Longs Peak.

Intro

At the time of this trip report, I had climbed Longs Peak 32 times by various routes. One route I had not yet climbed was the Northwest Couloir. This route climbs a steep rocky gully that starts about midway between the Keyhole and the left edge of the west face. The route involves tunneling through a cave at one point. Enos Mills climbed this route in 1896, but found signs of a previous ascent.

This was my 33rd ascent of Longs Peak (and 15th in 2024!). I thought this route was a nice alternative to the slighly longer and more crowded Keyhole Route.

I descended via downclimbing the Cables Route on the North Face. It was pretty wet, but shorter than taking the easier/dryer Keyhole Route.

This page gives a route overlay and photos from my climb.

Time Stats

Longs Peak Trailhead: 4:10 am
Base of Northwest Couloir: 7:03 am
Summit: 7:58 am
Longs Peak Trailhead: 11:00 am
TOTALS: 3:48 up, 3:02 down (car-to-car: 6:50)

Photos

Approach

2nd
Start at Longs Peak Trailhead. Hike the trail to the Boulderfield, and get on the standard Keyhole Route. On the portion known as the Ledges, past the place where the steel rods are driven into a prominent rock formation, but before the Trough, look for a big, ascending gully. It is the last big gully or couloir before the Trough itself. This is the Northwest Couloir.
Morning clouds.
Morning light on Longs Peak as seen from the Boulderfield.
The Keyhole.
The Agnes Vaille Shelter. The first shelter was built in 1927 by the National Park Service after a number of climbers died ascending Longs Peak. The shelter was named for Agnes Vaille, who died while descending from the first winter ascent of the east face of Longs Peak on January 12, 1925. Herbert Sortland also died of exposure during an attempt to rescue Vaille. Vaille's family rebuilt the shelter in 1935.
On the Keyhole Route.
Marker on the Keyhole Route.
Clouds billowing over Glacier Gorge.

Northwest Couloir

5.2
Scramble up from the Ledges, and climb along the left side of the couloir, tunneling through a cave at one point to avoid more difficult ground on the right. Gain the crest and follow Keyhole Ridge.
Looking up the Northwest Couloir from the Keyhole Route.
Ascending the Northwest Couloir. The little tower feature is an obvious feature to look for when identifying this couloir from the Keyhole Route.
View out.
The tunnel through the cave. There is a piton before some exposed moves.
It was quite wet. But fortunately there were positive holds and the climbing was just 4th class, so it didn't feel too sketchy.
Old pin just before the 'crux'.
Tunnling through the cave.
The terrain above the cave.
Upper Keyhole Ridge to the summit.
Nearing the summit. There was some fog billowing over the summit.

Summit!

The top of Longs Peak is 14,259 feet. The highest summit in RMNP. Enjoy the view! 
The summit. There is a person on the summit taking a selfie.

Descent via Cables Route

5.4
I chose to downclimb the Cables Route on the North Face. An easier but longer descent would be via the Keyhole Route (3rd).
Looking down the Cables Route.
Looking up the Cables Route.
Towering walls of the Diamond from Chasm View. The Diamond is a bit wet from recent rains.
Towering walls of the Diamond from Chasm View. The Diamond is a bit wet from recent rains.
A view back of Longs Peak when hiking out the Boulderfield. Cool clouds.
Low clouds around the Diamond.
Although the weather felt a bit more fall-like than summery, a typical summer day with cars parked down the road.

Previous and Next Adventures

Twin Owls (Central Chimney & cragging), Lumpy Ridge, CO
Cragging at Vedauwoo, WY

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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