Lost World Climbing: Night of the Unicorn (5.8, 4p), Colossus Crack Pitch 1 (5.8, 1p), Welcome to the Jungle Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p)

Lost World: 3 Routes

Routes:

- Colossus Crack Pitch 1 (5.8, 1p)
- Welcome to the Jungle Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p)
- Night of the Unicorn (5.8, 3p)

The Lost World is a sublime area of granite domes in RMNP with some sunny low-commitment off-the-beaten-path climbing.

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~8,700 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): June 18, 2023 (Sun)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Related trip reports:

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I have climbed at Lost World. Photos of these routes are given in the trip reports on this page.

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Intro

Fern Canyon represents the two miles of terrain between the west end of Morraine Park and the confluence of Fern Creek and Spurce Creek with the Big Thompson River. The Fern Lake Trail wanders up this forested canyon and reveals a fairly impressive line of cliffs to the north. Relatively few climbers visit these crags, instead drawn to the bigger objectives in the area. However, this area is a good place for some sunny low-commitment or earlier-season climbing in RMNP. The most popular zones of climbing are Rock of Ages and The Lost World. This page is for climbs I have done at The Lost World, a group of domes and buttress on the mountainside north of The Pool. I have another page for Rock of Ages.

So far, I have only been to the Lost World once, in June 2023.

Nate and I were itching to get into the alpine, but it had been an unseasonably wet and cool spring, and it was not quite warm enough to head up high. The Lost World in Fern Canyon—where I had never been and wanted to check out—sounded like a good place for a cool June Sunday. The timed entry system makes last minute trips into RMNP uncertain, but fortunately we managed to secure an elusive timed entry permit.

After perusing the guidebook descriptions and topos, we decided to start the day by linking up Welcome to the Jungle (5.9, 2p) on Moot Point Apron with Colossus Crack (5.8 R, 2p) on The Colossus. But our plans were a bit thwarted by conditions. The corner on the first pitch of Welcome to the Jungle ended up being quite vegetated and wet (the route is apparently appropriately named), so we wisely backed off of this and instead scrambled up to The Colossus. Due to an error on the guidebook topo mis-labeling the location of Colossus Crack, we explored around a bit. Once we located Colossus Crack we climbed the first pitch—which I thought was engaging and quality climbing at the grade—but the wind was whipping around the arete so we lowered off a couple of fixed nuts already up there. Next, we went and collected our gear we had left on Welcome to the Jungle (we created an anchor at the top of Moot Point Apron, fixed the rope, I rapped down to the ground, and then Nate belayed me up, which resulted in a fun 200-foot pitch of climbing for me). After some lunch and feeling the need to do a route to completion, we climbed Night of the Unicorn (5.8, 3p) on Gnome Dome. This moderate route had some good rock and fun climbing. After a rather tedious descent down a gully I wouldn't recommend, we enjoyed a flowery hike out.

Overall, this was quite a fun day of exploring and climbing with my favorite partner. I thought the climbing was just okay, but the sublime and crowd-free (we were the only ones there) nature of the Lost World area made up for it.

Below are some photos from my first visit to the Lost World. The photos are organized by climb. Approach photos are given in the Night of the Unicorn section.

Approach to Lost World

Climbs I've Done

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Dates I've climbed this route (just Pitch 1):
Date: June 18, 2023 (Sun)    Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route Overlay

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Intro

This is one of the better routes at The Lost World. The route begins on the left side of the east face in the leftmost (and largest) crack. We just climbed Pitch 1.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 2

5.8 R
Climb straight up from the belay on the south face and angle up and left through some unprotected right-facing corners. Continue up broken features straight up the south face and finish with a short, but perfect, finger crack. Belay on a big ledge near the top.

(We did not climb this pitch due to gusty winds on the arete.)

Descent

Walk off or Rappel
Walk off to the west. (Or, from the top of Pitch 1, you can lower off a couple of fixed nuts.)

Dates I've climbed this route (just Pitch 1):
Date: June 18, 2023 (Sun)    Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route Overlay

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Intro

This route climbs the curving open book dihedral on the left side of the south face.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 2

5.8
Head straight up a thin crack, undercling left around a roof then work up and right and belay in a gully.

(We climbed right of this pitch when we lowered down from a top anchor to retrieve our gear and climb the route.)

Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: June 18, 2023 (Sun)    Partner: Nate Arganbright

Route Overlay

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Intro

This line ascends the middle of the west face of Gnome Dome and passes through a broad A-shaped roof in the wall.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 1

5.4
Romp up an easy crack and traverse right to belay on a ledge with a pine tree.

Pitch 2

5.7
Work up and left for 40 feet, then go right and climb a thin crack. Once above the crack, follow easy rock to belay beneath the right side of a conspicuous A-shaped roof that is visible from the talus.

(We climbed more directly up from the pine tree at the top of Pitch 1, resulting in a good pitch of climbing but probably closer to 5.9 for a few moves.)

Pitch 3

5.8
Climb through the apex of the roof and follow a thin crack up a beautiful slab to a small ledge. Meander up easy 4th class slab to the top of the dome.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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