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The Bookend Main Page

The Bookend

Routes:

(Routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

- Bombay Chimney (5.8, 4p)
- Unknown Chasm (5.7, 4p)
- Pinch (5.8, 4p)
- Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p)
- Knight's Gambit (5.9+, 5p)
- Orange Julius (5.9, 6p)
- Hot Licks (5.9, 4p)
- The Great Dihedral (5.7, 3-4p)
- Handbook (5.9, 3p)
- Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p)
- The Sorcerer (5.8+, 4p)
- Winds of Fortune (5.10a, 3p)
- Treebeard (5.7, 3p)
- Cragging at The Bookend (5.10a-5.12a, 5 pitches/routes)

Region: Colorado

Elev: ~9,000 ft

Rock type: Granite

Type:

Date(s): various

Partner(s): various

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on The Bookend.

Related trip reports:

Several other routes on other formations at Lumpy Ridge

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I've climbed on The Bookend. Trip reports for these routes can be accessed from this page.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Climbs I've Done

CLICK ON ROUTE TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

(routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 30, 2023 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Bombay Chimney is the west-most of the four major chimney lines. Although it gets no stars in the guidebook, it looked interesting and Scott Kimball said he remembered it as a fun route with some good climbing. So Nate and I climbed this route as the first of two routes on The Bookend (the second route of the day was Knight's Gambit) on this stellar fall day. We agreed with Scott. This route is defintely worth climbing!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8

Climb crack/dihedral system about 80 feet to the base of the main chimney. Climb about 20 feet up the chimney / crack to a nice stance.

Pitch 2

5.8

Climb the deep flare for about 120 feet. This is a sustained and fun chimney pitch. It is nice to have a #4. This is the crux pitch.

Pitch 3

5.7

Continue up much easier chimney system with many ramps and features inside to another good stance.

Pitch 4

5.easy

Climb grooves to the top.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: October 8, 2023 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Nate and I had climbed Bombay Chimney the previous weekend, and found it quite good. So when another glorious Lumpy weekend came to the area, we decided to return to The Bookend and climb Pinch and Unknown Chasm. Our second route was Unknown Chasm, the second from left of the major chimney systems on the face. This route had no description in the guidebook other than to "climb the next chimney on the left." This was an okay route, but we agreed we liked Bombay Chimney and Pinch a bit better.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.7

Start up a crack/corner system. Belay on a nice ledge below the chimney.

Pitch 2

5.7

Climb the chimney. For most of it there is a hand crack along the left side. This is a very long pitch. Near the top, either exit right to a ledge or continue up to a ledge.

Pitch 3

5.6

Climb upward to the base of the headwall.

Pitch 4

5.easy

Climb grooves to the top.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: October 8, 2023 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

The Bookend has some intriguing chimney lines that slice through the south face. Nate and I had climbed Bombay Chimney the previous weekend, and found it quite good. So when another glorious Lumpy weekend came to the area, we decided to return to The Bookend and climb Pinch and Unknown Chasm. We started with Pinch, the third from left of the major chimney systems on the face. This route had no description in the guidebook other than to "climb the deep chimney thirty feet left of Sicilian Defence." This was another fun high-quality route, and felt just a touch easier than Bombay Chimney.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.8

Start up a crack and finish with a bit of chimney, ending about 100 feet up at a ledge.

Pitch 2

5.8

Climb the chimney with double hand cracks and tunneling behind a chockstone.

Pitch 3

5.7

Continue up the chimney system.

Pitch 4

5.easy

Climb grooves to the top.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: April 9, 2022 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route threads a line up the column between Sicilian Defense and Pinch. It is a fun route that climbs obvious features, and definitely deserves more than the one star it gets in the guidebook. This was our first day at Lumpy of Spring 2022. First tick sighting of the year!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

5.9

Begin with a jam crack.

Pitch 2

5.9-

Climb an obvious chimney.

Pitch 3

5.8+

Climb the right edge of the Pinch chimney via cracks and flakes.

Pitch 4

5.9-

Continue up. This can be linked with Pitch 3 (as we did) for a nice long pitch of climbing.

Pitch 5

5.easy

Climb to the top. Several routes share this pitch.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 30, 2023 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route ascends the south face, a short way around the corner and left of Orange Julius. It appears to not see a lot of activity even though it is full of quality climbing and a few 9+ cruxes. Nate and I climbed Knight's Gambit as the second of two routes on The Bookend (the first route of the day was Bombay Chimney) on this stellar fall day. What a great day of climbing!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

5.9+

Start just left of the Foxhead (a large squarish formation at the southeast corner of the Bookend) and cimb to a bolt on the left, and then move left to reach a crack. A sloping shelf slants back right to the main chimney. Cross this and belay.

Pitch 2

5.9+

Squeeze up to a bulge and go right to a belay in a comfy alcove.

Pitch 3

~5.7

Climb a mellow slab past the orange alcove of Orange Julius and join Sicilian Defense.

Pitch 4

~5.8.

Climb a chimney. This shares with Sicilian Defense.

Pitch 5

5.easy

Climb grooves to the top.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: May 15, 2021 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This is one of the classic climbs at Lumpy. It has varied and spicy climbing the whole way. This is one of my favorite Lumpy routes to date. We climbed this as the first route of a two-route day on The Bookend. The second climb was Handbook, not far to the right of this route.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. Start below the right edge of the triangular roof on the southeast prow.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.9

Jam a steep flare formed by a pillar and step out of the dihedral dropping from the roof at a thin crack. Face climb to the left edge of the roof and undercling to a belay tree. A better protected version stays with the dihedral, underclinging the entire length of the roof.

Pitch 2

5.8

Go up a crack and head across a slab. Belay above an orange alcove capped with an angular roof.

Pitch 3

5.9

Step right onto a thin slab (scary 5.9) and join the crystalline hand crack on the second pitch Hot Licks. Belay where a horizontal crack shoots left.

Pitch 4

5.7

An awesome hand traverse along the horizontal crack.

Pitch 5

5.8

Climb a shallow crack, step around left, and squeeze up the final portion of Sicilian Defense.

Pitch 6

5.easy

Climb grooves to the top.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: February 22, 2020 (Sat); Partner: Jon Oulton
- Date: November 12, 2023 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

The first time I climbed Hot Licks was in February 2020. Jon and I climbed two routes on this stellar winter day at Lumpy. Kor's Flake on Sundance was the first route of the day. On the hike out we detoured to The Bookend and climbed Hot Licks. Gotta make use of the wide gear when you have brought it. What a great day! We thought that Hot Licks was a stellar route with a short and spicy face traverse and some fun wide climbing.

The second time I climbed Hot Licks was on a glorious 50° fall day in November 2023. The route was just as enjoyable the second time.

Both time, our large cams included 1#3, 1#4, 1#5, 1#6.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts just left of the Great Dihedral.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

February 2020 photos

Pitch 1

5.8

Jam up a hand and fist crack. It is possible to belay at a stance below a wider section or continue up to a hanging belay just below where the crack peters out. In 2020, I chose the lower belay (which made Pitch 2 longer) while in 2023 I chose the hanging belay.

February 2020 photos

November 2023 photos

Pitch 2

5.9(+)

Continue up the crack, which eventually peters out. There are a couple of good small cam placements before a few spicy face moves rightward. But the feet are pretty good. (This section of Lumpy spice is just as heady for the follower due to a pendulum potential. This is the crux of the route.) Gain a ledge and move right to a fun hand crack. Follow that to an exposed belay shelf on the right below an obvious offwidth. It is probably best to belay directly above the hand crack and then move the belay.

February 2020 photos

November 2023 photos

Pitch 3

5.9

Climb the offwidth. This is what you came for. A #5 and #6 are nice to have. A #6 will pretty much allow you to climb the hardest section with a cam at your nose.

February 2020 photos

November 2023 photos

Pitch 4

5.easy

Climb easy terrain to the summit.

February 2020 photos

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Even in the winter conditions Jon and I faced, it was a pretty mellow descent.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

February 2020 photos

November 2023 photos

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 18, 2024 (Wed); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

Also known as The Great Boating Accident of 1988, this deep channel drains the huge dihedral that portions off the south flank from the southeast face. Climb the chimney in three or four fun pitches. Each pitch seems to have a bit of 5.7 on it.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

5.7

Up the chimney. Belay below a giant chockstone.

Pitch 2a

5.7

Lieback around the right side of the chockstone. Continue up the easy chimney to a nice ledge and belay. A short pitch. Or link into "Pitch 2b" for a long pitch.

Pitch 2b

5.7

Continue up the chimney to a huge ledge below the final corner.

Pitch 3

5.7

Right-facing corner with bombay slot.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: May 15, 2021 (Sat) ; Partner: Nate Arganbright
- Date: September 20, 2024 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route jams a nice crack system to the right of the Great Dihedral. Quite a fun and quick climb to tack onto the day. In May 2021, we climbed this as the second route of a two-route day on The Bookend. The first climb was Orange Julius not far to the left of this route. In September 2024, we climbed Handbook (Nate had wanted to toprope the face between The Great Dihedral and Handbook to scope out the potential for a new route, but unfortunately he did not find anything worthwhile) and after this tacked on a bonus pitch on Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p).

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

May 2021 photos

September 2024 photos

Pitch 1

5.7

Climb easy rock to reach the main crack system and belay on a pillar on the left.

May 2021 photos

September 2024 photos

Pitch 2

5.9

Jam and lieback the crack to a belay below several left-leaning grooves.

May 2021 photos

September 2024 photos

Pitch 3

5.6

Pick a groove and climb to the top.

May 2021 photos

September 2024 photos

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

September 2024 photos

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route features some quintessential Lumpy slab journey on impeccable rock.

It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with The Sorcerer).

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.10a

Climb the open book corner, turn left and keep climbing the corner to a roof. Clip a bolt, pull a fun 5.9 move over the roof, and then take a deep breath and slab past two bolts to a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2

5.9

Embark on a thoughtful journey up the slab. Great rock. 6 bolts in about 110 feet.

Pitch 3

5.easy

Climb easy terrain to the summit.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: June 2, 2020 (Tue); Partner: Cassie Vendegna

Intro

The Sorcerer climbs a dihedral system runs up the east face just right of Climb of the Ancient Mariner.

Cassie and I climbed this just after climbing White Whale on the Left Book. I had been eying this route the previous week while climbing Climb of the Ancient Mariner and it looked like a lot of fun. Indeed it was! It was a step up from White Whale and the gear was a bit trickier, but I enjoy that part about Lumpy. Thanks Cassie for being a fun partner!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Climb of the Ancient Mariner).

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8

Climb the open book corner and continue up a flake system to a belay level with the roof of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, which is just to the left.

Pitch 2

5.8+

Delicately stem and layback up the sustained dihedral. Tricky pro.

Pitch 3

5.8

Continue up the dihedral system. At the roof, undercling left to a belay stance on the arete. This is the same belay as the top of Pitch 2 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner.

Pitch 4

5.easy

Climb easy rock to the summit.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: July 7, 2024 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This is another great route to the top of the Bookend. I had climbed the first pitch of this route in April 2022, but the entire route is worth doing, especially for the wild 5.9+ roof on the second pitch.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts at an overlapping flake some two hundred feet above the base of the rib, below two short trees growing on the rib top.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.10a

Go right along the flake and head up steep rock to a thin slash that cuts back left. Hike past the trees to a better belay.

Move the belay over 4th class rock to reach the main wall.

Pitch 2

5.9+

Climb into a tight dihedral and jam the roof to the top.

Pitch 3

5.6

Step left to a thin crack and follow that.

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: November 11, 2023 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route climbs an obvious left-facing corner on the right side of the Bookend. Although the route never became popular, it is a nice moderate climb with some good climbing.

We had planned to use this as our warm-up route and climb a second route afterward, but the wind had a biting chill to it, my handwarmers were not working, and I was pretty cold by the time we got to the top, and voted to hike out. I spent the afternoon collecing all of my handwarmers and throwing out all of the expired ones, drinking hot chocolate, and doing a treadmill workout to get warm. Nate came over later for a movie. We made plans to return to the Bookend the next day, since it looked warmer and calmer.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Sorcerer).

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.6

Jam an open book on the left side of the ledge, moving right (either into a grassy groove or higher across a slab) to belay at a tree. The first part of this pitch shares with the first pitch of Sorcerer.

Pitch 2

5.7

Cross beneath Winds of Fortune dihedral to a prominent, red corner. There is a wide crack but it protects with small cams in cracks on the wall of the corner. When the corner opens into a wide pod, you can traverse left to the belay of Winds of Fortune or continue up through the pod.

Pitch 3

5.6

Follow the dihedral above to easier ground. This is a long pitch (full 70m rope just makes it to the top).

Descent

Easy scramble

From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Pretty mellow.

(other trip reports for The Bookend have more photos of the descent)

(no photos)

Photos

More climbing fun!

Date: April 9, 2022 (Sat)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed: Winds of Fortune Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p), Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p), Pineapple Juice (5.11b, 1p)

The main event of the day was The Corinthian Column (5.9, 4-5p) to the top of The Bookmark, but we began the day by cragging at the base on three great routes.

More climbing fun!

Date: September 21, 2024 (Sat)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed: Strawberry Shortcake (5.10c, 1p)

After climbing Handbook, I was still itching for more pitches so I led and toproped Strawberry Shortcake.

More climbing fun!

Date: December 14, 2024 (Sat)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed: Hard Labor (5.11d/12a, 1p)

A goregous late fall day doing laps on Hard Labor. We each did four laps. I had never climbed this route before but Nate and his friend John had been there a few times working it for a lead.

More climbing fun!

Date: December 19, 2024 (Thu)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed: Hard Labor (5.11d/12a, 1p)

We came back five days later and did a few more laps. Each of us got it (on toprope) 2 out of 3 times this time.

More climbing fun!

Date: March 2, 2025 (Sun)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed: Hard Labor (5.11d/12a, 1p)

Back again. Five laps for me, three for Nate. Still hard. Still fun. Gorgeous day at Lumpy with my favorite partner.

More climbing fun!

Date: March 5, 2025 (Wed)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed: Hard Labor (5.11d/12a, 1p)

Back again. Five laps for each of us. Nate plans to lead it next time.

More climbing fun!

Date: March 9, 2025 (Sun)

Partners: Nate Arganbright & John Tormalehto

Climbed: Hard Labor (5.11d/12a, 1p), Climb of the Ancient Mariner Pitch 1 (5.10a)

Back to Hard Labor. Nate's friend and long-time climbing partner John joined us. Nate finally red-pointed Hard Labor, and both John and I toproped it a few times and placed all of the gear. The general consensus among the three of us is that this route is 12a or b. Both John and I are inspired to come back and red-point it, and Nate wants to lead it again and start investigating the pitch above....

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