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 The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle Main Page

The Bookmark & Bookmark Pinnacle

Routes:

(Routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

The BOOKMARK
- Sidewinder (5.9+, 3-4p)
- Sidewinder + Joy and Tribulation (5.8, 3p)
- Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p)
- Stray Shots (5.10b, 3p)
- Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p)
- Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p)
- Star Trek (5.9, 3p)
- Backflip (5.9, 3p)

THE BOOKMARK PINNACLE
- Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p)
- East Side (5.8+, 2p)
- Cragging at The Bookmark and Bookmark Pinnacle (5.8-5.11+, 12 pitches)

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~9,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): various
Partner(s): various

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on The Bookmark and The Bookmark Pinnacle.

Related trip reports:

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I've climbed on The Bookmark or Bookmark Pinnacle. Trip reports for these routes can be accessed from this page.

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The Bookmark
The Bookmark & Bookmark Pinnacle
The Bookmark & Bookmark Pinnacle

Climbs I've Done

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(routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

The Bookmark

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: October 1, 2024 (Tue);  Partner: Will Starks

Intro

Most people just climb the first two pitches of this route and finish on Joy and Tribulation's final pitch. Sidewinder takes a harder finish, making a difficult traverse right into a fist crack. Not the greatest route I've climbed at Lumpy, but still worth doing.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.7+
 Follow the obvious diagonal crack system.
Looking up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.8
Keep following the diagonal crack system. Break right in a finger crack which leads to a terrace. This part can be linked with Pitch 1. There is some vegetation, but the climbing is still quite fun.
Looking up Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.9+
Climb the chimney of Joy and Tribulation, stopping short of the offwidth spot. Hand traverse right (crux) and ham a cleanly sculpted 5.9 fist crack (#5 could be handy to protect top section).
Will leading Pitch 3. He is at the wide crack finish.
The 5.9 fist crack. A #5 could be handy to protect top section.

Pitch 4

5.6
A 5.6 crack to the top.
We linked this with Pitch 3.
Easier climbing to the top.
A mini pitch or scramble to the top rappel station.

Descent

Rappel west
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date:  May 27, 2020 (Wed);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route combines the diagonal crack system of the first two pitches of Sidewinder with the stellar third pitch of Joy and Tribulation for a fun and quick 5.8 romp to the top of The Bookmark.

Note: This route is referred to as just Joy and Tribulation on MountainProject.com. But the Gillett guidebook describes the first two pitches as part of Sidewinder. The third pitch of Sidewinder involves a 5.9+ hand traverse into a 5.9 fist crack, so climbing Joy and Tribulation as the third pitch keeps the adventure at 5.8.

It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.7+
Sidewinder
Follow the obvious diagonal crack system.
Looking up Pitch 1.
Somewhere on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.8
Sidewinder
Keep following the diagonal crack system. This part can be linked with Pitch 1. There is some vegetation, but the climbing is still quite fun.
Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.8
Joy and Tribulation
Climb the obvious chimney, which is steep with great jams and stems the whole way up. At the top, enter the chasm and continue up and left to the bolted rappel station up and around the corner.
Looking up the chimney.
Looking down from the top of the pitch. I am belaying at the rap station.

Descent

Rappel west
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: May 27, 2020 (Wed);  Partner: Nate Arganbright
- Date: September 15, 2024 (Sun);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This is a classic Lumpy route with some great rock, some spicy sections of climbing, and an awesome position throughout.

May 2020: It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.

Sept 2024: Just as fun the second time. What a great route wth a bit of 5.9 Lumpy spice (especially the 3rd pitch).

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
May 2020 photos
Social distancing guidelines at Lumpy.
September 2024 photos
Stuffed peregrine and eagle at the trailhead. Bird closures are over by this time in the summer.

Pitch 1

5.8
Same as Joy and Tribulation Pitch 1
Climb up the first 10-15 feet of the diagonal crack of Sidewinder, then pull onto the ridge at a flake. Continue up a corner system close to the edge and belay somewhere below a bolt on the face above.
May 2020 photos
Gain the ridge at the flake feature just below the yellow rock.
Looking down from the belay at the top of the pitch.
September 2024 photos
Midway up Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.9
Same as Joy and Tribulation Pitch 2
Head up onto the slab, clip a bolt, place a cam, and then cut right to gain a crack system. Continue easily up to a belay.
May 2020 photos
Nate leading Pitch 2.
September 2024 photos
Same photo, 4 years later.

Pitch 3

5.9
Climb into an alcove beneath a triangular roof on the ridge. You can either get past the roof on the right (5.9) or left (5.8). We went right. Above the roof cross a slab into a thin crack with awesome exposure on the southwest ridge. At the end of the thin crack, traverse right to a belay stance.
May 2020 photos
Looking up towards the alcove and roof.
Looking down after pulling the right side of the roof. The position on this pitch is hard to beat.
The section above the roof. I had quite a bit of rope drag at this point (less gear at the roof would have helped) and decided to stop and belay mid-pitch (so this is not taken from a standard belay spot).
September 2024 photos
Nate leading Pitch 3.
Perfect rope containment bowl at the belay at the top of Pitch 3.

Pitch 4

5.9
 Climb the slightly overhanging crack above the belay. Proceed easily to the top. Cross a chasm to get to the rappel anchor.
May 2020 photos
The start of Pitch 4. This is a short pitch, and Nate linked this with the second half of Pitch 3.
September 2024 photos
Nate starting up Pitch 4.

Descent

Rappel west
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
September 2024 photos
The final scrample to the rappel station.
Late summer asters.

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date:  July 27, 2024 (Sat);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route begins right of Melvin's Wheel but the upper route lies to the left. Although this route does not see much traffic, it offers high-quality crack climbing up the southwest face of the Bookmark, with a fun and protectable 5.10b crux bulge.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Cute stuffed eagle and peregrine at the Lumpy Ridge trailhead. Most of the bird closures had recently been lifted, including the closure at the Bookmark, where we were headed.
Spores (?) on underside of leaf.
Bark art.

Pitch 1

5.9
Go right from the pine tree to the next crack system over. Belay on Library Ledge.
Nate starting up Pitch 1. Stray Shots starts just right of Melvin's Wheel.
Fun crack climbing on Pitch 1.
Library Ledge at the top of the pitch. This is also the belay spot for the top of Pitch 1 of Melvin's Wheel.

Pitch 2

5.9
Climb left of Melvin's Wheel with a long crack into a bulging, right-facing dihedral. Undercling let and cross the crux overlap. Head right (dicey 5.9) to a belay.
Nate leading Pitch 2.
Nate negotiating the crux bulge on Pitch 2. (He cruised through it.)
Crack at the start of Pitch 2. If you make a rising traverse into the crack (as we did) you miss the lower section of the crack but you enjoy some good face climbing.

Pitch 3

5.9
Ascend disjuct cracks along the left margi of the chimney on Melvin's Wheel and switch left to finish on Fantasy Ridge.
Nate staring up Pitch 3.
Midway up Pitch 3.

Descent

Rappel west
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Cute purple aster.

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: March 15, 2020 (Sun);  Partner: Will Starks

Intro

This is a fun 5.8 route that climbs cracks up the left side of the Bookmark.

Will and I climbed this as the first of two routes on the Bookmark. It was pretty cold and windy (hey, it IS winter...), but this just added to the adventure. Next on the agenda was Backflip!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
The cows seem to really like this section of trail....

Pitch 1

5.8
Climb a left-facing dihedral system, jam through a roof, and cut right to an awesome belay spot on the left end of Library Ledge.
At the base of the route. The pitch starts at the dead snag. It was a chilly start. But hey, it is winter...
A photo of the base of the route a few hours later, around 1pm. Looking a bit warmer now, but still holding shade on the lower section of the pitch.
Will starting up Pitch 1.
Higher on Pitch 1. Sun!

Pitch 2

5.8+
Jam a perfect crack up the clean slab. Belay at a slung horn in an alcove below a wide crack/chimney.
Looking up the Pitch 2 splitter.
Looking down at the cushy belay spot at the top of Pitch 1.
Looking down the Pitch 2 splitter.

Pitch 3

5.8
Squeeze over a bulge and continue up a low-angled chimney system (just don't slip, you'd fall inside!) to a belay.
Looking up the start of Pitch 3. Fun burly 5.8.
Looking down from the start of Pitch 3. You can see the splitter of Pitch 2 below.
The chimney at the top of Pitch 3. You could probably protect this with a #4 but its a bit easier to just stay above it and stem up it.
Will at the belay at the top of the pitch.

Descent

Rappel west
The descent for this route is to the west. Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels westward down the gully to the ground below.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
The view is hard to beat.
The route gives a great view of the splitter offwidth of Hot Licks across the way on the Bookend. I had climbed this a month previous.
We had stopped short of the rappel, so we did a short pitch to get there. Nice exposure and flake features.
Location of the first rappel.
The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.
The second rappel to 2nd class terrain.
Will discovered a Swiss Cheese Man in his lunch.
Close up of Mr. Swiss Cheese Man.

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: November 10, 2019 (Sun);  Partner: Nate Arganbright
- Date: October 6, 2024 (Sun);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

An excellent route that climbs the major dihedral system in the center of the upper wall. November 10: Nate and I climbed this as the first of a two-route day at Lumpy. Next on the agenda was Fat City! October 6: Still one of my favorite routes at Lumpy. And still feels just as sandbagged.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.9+
Marginal Line
Select a pitch to Library Ledge. Several options. We chose Marginal Line, which has a bouldery crux start into a seam, and from there follows fun and moderate terrain to Library Ledge.
November 2019 photos
Marginal Line start. This route had only one star in the guidebook but I thought it was pretty fun.
October 2024 photos
Nate starting up Marginal Line, just above the bouldery crux start.

Pitch 2

5.10b
Climb the corner. There is a steep crux bulge midway up. The gear is a bit tricky but its all there if you look for it. Excellent climbing that tests your trad game.
November 2019 photos
Looking up Pitch 2.
Midway up Pitch 2. The crux is at the bulge about 20 feet above me.
October 2024 photos
Looking up Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.

Pitch 3

5.9
Climb up into the dihedral proper and lieback to its top, then undercling right to a belay stance. More excellent climbing.
November 2019 photos
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
A view down Pitch 3. Excellent rock.
October 2024 photos
Nate starting up Pitch 3.
Nate leading Pitch 3.

Descent

Rappel east
The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
November 2019 photos
The view is hard to beat. That's Longs Peak in the distance.
October 2024 photos
Smoke from wildfires in Utah. It had been an unusally hot and dry fall.

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: January 30, 2022 (Sun);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

It was January but sunny and only a slight breeze so Nate and I decided it would be a Lumpy day. We decided to climb Star Trek, a route that ascends the pinnacle between Romulan Territory and Backflip up cracks and face. I had not climbed this route yet, and thought it was great climbing on great rock. We were back to the base just after noon, and debated climbing another route or going and sitting in the sun on Nate's deck. We chose the latter. What an enjoyable day all around. I really love these winter days where the Colorado sun makes it feel like spring.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Start 30 feet left of Backflip.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Approaching The Bookmark.
Some ice Nate spotted and took a photo of.
I thought this perspective was cool. Photo by Nate.

Pitch 1

5.7
Ascend a flared slot past a bush to a wide crack (old bolt) and continue up crack systems to Library Ledge.
The route started from the snow.
Looking up Pitch 1. Due to the snow we started off on Marginal Line and busted right onto Star Trek near the old bolt.
The old bolt at the wide section.
Looking up the wideness.
Can't beat the view.
Great rock and fun climbing higher on Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.9 (5.6X) or 5.10a (5.6X)
Climb up an unprotected, knobby slab (5.6X) just left of the arching dihedral on Backflip, and cross an overlap to a thin slash with a tiny tree. Work right to a flake and belay below a little roof. One can also finish this pitch with Klingon (5.10a).
Nate starting up the 5.6 X section that comprises the first half of the pitch. I wouldn't want to lead this pitch but Nate cruised up it without hesitation.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Higher on Pitch 2. More great rock and climbing.
This is the Klingon (10a) finish of the pitch. We climbed the 5.9 finish to the right.
Steph on the 5.9 finish. A really nice finis

Pitch 3

5.7
Pop over the roof and follow a flared groove, then move right to the belay.
Pitch 3.

Descent

Rappel east
The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Nate enjoying the winter sun at a lunch break back at the base of the route.
A view back towards Lumpy Ridge on the hike out. Bluebird winter day!

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: March 15, 2020 (Sun);  Partner: Will Starks
- Date: October 6, 2024 (Sun);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This is a fun 5.9 route that climbs flakes and corners on the right side of the Bookmark.

March 2020: Will and I climbed this route as two long pitches, and agreed this is a great way to climb it. Will and I climbed this as the second of two routes on the Bookmark. The first route had been Melvin's Wheel.

October 2024: Nate and I climbed this as the first of two routes on the Bookend (Backflip and Romulan Territory). We took the Pinnacle Watch Pitch 2 variation for the second pitch, which was interesting but not as good as the usual second pitch of Backflip.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.8+
Climb the flake and corner to a flat ledge with a bolted anchor. You can belay here, or continue up mid-5th to Library Ledge. We continued up to Library Ledge, which is what I would recommend since it is easily linked.
March 2020 photos
Looking up Pitch 1.
Looking down Pitch 1.
Will just about at Library Ledge.
October 2024 photos
Nate leading Pitch 1.

Pitch 2

5.8+
 Lieback up the arching dihedral, and then traverse right with an undercling flake. Continue right to a belay stance. We linked with Pitch 3 to climb the route in two long pitches.
March 2020 photos
Will dancing through the undercling section on Pitch 2.
October 2024 photos
Looking up Pitch 2.
We did a variation to Pitch 2 that went right and climbed the second pitch of Pinnacle Watch. Felt about 5.7.
Second pitch of Pinnacle Watch. Felt about 5.7.

Pitch 3

5.8 or 5.9
5.9 option (better climbing but harder). Climb directly up from the belay via a thin crack and then move through a steep headwall.
5.8 option. Move right into a system of cracks and climb these to the top.

At the top of the pitch, you can continue up easy 5th to about 40 feet above the first rappel anchor, or just cut directly right to the rappel anchor.
March 2020 photos
Pitch 3.
The thin crack. The piton mentioned in some older route descriptions is no more.
The end of the route. You can continue up for about 40 more feet on easy cracks, or cut right directly to the first rap anchor.
October 2024 photos
5.8 cracks.
5.8 cracks.

Descent

Rappel east
The descent for this route is to the east. Scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made two raps with a 70m rope, since the final part (which I had downclimbed previously) was a bit dirty from winter runoff.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
March 2020 photos
The view is hard to beat. Photo by Will.
The view is hard to beat. Photo by Will.
Rapping the descent chimney.

Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: October 1, 2023 (Sun)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed: Backflip Pitch 1 (5.8+, 1p), Bellyflop (5.10+, 1p), Inside Straight (5.9, 1p)
Three great pitches of cragging on a beautiful autumn Sunday.
Trail junction.
Pitch 1 of Backflip. This is a great pitch. I led it as our warm up for the day.
Nate toproping Bellyflop (5.10+) from the anchor at the top of Pitch 1 of Backflip.
I found an exploded cam at the base of the wall. Likely someone had cleaned this out of some route above.
Inside Straight. A classic burly 5.9 Lumpy crack climb.
Nate past the meat of Inside Straight. Nice lead Nate!
About to start up Inside Straight. What a fun pitch.
Hip belay at the top of Inside Straight.
A fall color explosion.
We climbed three pitches and then hiked out in interest of getting a few things done (errands, laundry, chores, etc). I started to split some wood from some rounds a friend had given me.
I got a bit carried away and ended up splitting almost all of it. Getting ready for the winter ahead!
Newt, my trip-reporting buddy.

More climbing fun!
Date: November 12, 2023 (Sun)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed: Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1 (5.8, 1p), The Goose (5.10b/c, 1p), Sojurn (5.11a, 1p)
A few bonus pitches after climbing Hot Licks (5.9, 4p) on The Bookend. We climbed Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1 and then toproped The Goose and Sojurn on descent back to the base.
Melvin's Wheel Pitch 1. A great long pitch of 5.8 climbing.
Toproping The Goose (5.10b/c). A really fun face climb below the Pitch 1 anchor of Melvin's Wheel.
Anchor at the top of Sojurn (5.11a). This anchor was installed in the 80's.
Nate toproping Sojurn (5.11a) on a glorious November afternoon. I thought that this route seemed difficult for the grade, but Nate cruised right up it.

More climbing fun!
Date: July 26, 2024 (Fri)
Partner: Nate Beckwith
Climbed: Fantasy Ridge / Joy and Tribulation Pitches 1&2 (5.9, 2p), Between the Sheets Pitch 1 (5.11+, 1p)
Nate B and I warmed up on the first two pitches of Fantasy Ridge / Joy and Tribulation (these two routes share their first two pitches), and then each did a couple of laps on Between the Sheets Pitch 1 (5.11+). This pitch is one of the best pitches of the grade at Lumpy—incredible stone, perfect pro, and techy thin crack and face climbing up a splitter thin crack. Nice job Nate getting the pink point.
Nate starting up Pitch 1 of Fantasy Ridge / Joy and Tribulation.
Mellow climbing on Pitch 1 of Fantasy Ridge / Joy and Tribulation.
Nate starting up Pitch 2 of Fantasy Ridge / Joy and Tribulation.. A slightly heady slabby start followed by easier climbing.
Nate leading Pitch 1 of Between the Sheets (5.11+). Pink point!
Thin crack climbing on Pitch 1 of Between the Sheets (5.11+). Fortunately the crack eats small nuts and cams.
Bolted anchor on Pitch 1 of Between the Sheets (5.11+). This makes it nice to toprope and lap the pitch.
Looking down Pitch 1 of Between the Sheets (5.11+).

More climbing fun!
Date: July 27, 2024 (Sat)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed: Between the Sheets Pitch 1 (5.11+, 1p), Joy and Tribulation Pitch 3 (5.8, 1p)
After climbing Stray Shots (5.10b, 3p), Nate A and I rapped to the anchor on Between the Sheets Pitch 1 (5.11+) and climbed this pitch a couple of times. It felt quite cruiser after working it the day before. We then climbed back to the top of the Bookmark via the fun stem box of Joy and Tribulation Pitch 3 (5.8).
Looking up the 5.11 crack of Between the Sheets (5.11+).
Nate toproping Between the Sheets (5.11+). A fun toprope.
Pitch 3 of Joy and Tribulation goes left, Pitch 3 of Sidewinder breaks out right.
5.9 fist crack on Sidewinder Pitch 3. We had not brought a #4, so I had to back off (20 feet of 5.9 fist crack ahead). I backed down to Joy and Tribulation and climbed up that instead.
Cute purple aster.

The Bookmark Pinnacle

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: July 30, 2023 (Sun);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route climbs a chimney created by a huge flake on the left side of Bookmark Pinnacle. It looks wild and difficult to protect, but ends up being pretty fun 5.9 chimney climbing, and protects quite well with a #7 cam! This was a really fun route I had my eye on for awhile. 

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Bookmark Pinnacle is just right of the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
This is a view down onto Penis Chimney, taken while climbing Backflip in March 2020.
We decided to bust out my #7 (still brand new) for this route. It was handy to have.

Pitch 1

5.9
Chimney up behind the column and jam up the left side of stacked blocks. Burrow underneath the blocks for an easier finish.
Nate leading the Pitch 1 chimney.
Some 'schwacking to get to the chimney.
Looking up into the chimney.
Looking up into the chimney.
Looking down the chimney from midway up the pitch.
Nearing the top of the pitch.
Nearing the top of the pitch.
Zoomed in on the #7. Nate bumped this along for most of his lead. It made the lead feel quite well-protected.

Pitch 2

5.8
Walk left on the Lower Terrace and jam a steep crack up the west face, finishing on the south ridge.
Looking up the pitch.
The top of the pitch intersects the East Side route to the top of Bookmark Pinnacle. This is a fun and exposed stretch of climbing to the top.

Descent

Rappel east
The descent for this route is to the east. The route tops out at a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Rappelling from the top of Bookmark Pinnacle.
Sunflower.
Penstemon.
Thistle.

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 18, 2021 (Sat);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route on the southeast corner of Bookmark Pinnacle offers entertaining 5.8+ climbing and tops out on a cool spire summit. Nate and I had planned to climb something on The Book, but on this sunny Saturday climbers had already nabbed all of the best routes, so we decided to climb to the top of Bookmark Pinnacle instead. We finished before noon, and decided to finish off the day by driving over to Mary's Bust and climbing the Brown Palace (5.11a, 6p, sport). What a fun late summer day out on the rock!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between The Bookend and The Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark. Bookmark Pinnacle is just right of the Bookmark.

(other trip reports for the area may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)
Squirrel all fattened up for the cold winter ahead.

Pitch 1

5.8+
Scramble up to its base and jam the evident hand crack. Belay on a spacious ledge (Lower Terrace) that encircles the south face. Two cracks breach the roof band above. Choose one of them.
Looking up Pitch 1.
More fun climbing on Pitch 1.
A steep hand crack to finish off the pitch. We actually climbed this short section as an independent pitch.

Pitch 2

5.7
Move left and finish on the south edge of the summit blade.
Looking up Pitch 2.
Nate stemming the chimney before moving onto the arete.
Nate romping up the exposed arete.
Shadow climbing.
Summit photo.

Descent

Rappel east
The descent for this route is to the east. The route tops out at a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.

(other trip reports for The Bookmark may have more photos of the descent; routes on the left side of the formation descend to the west while routes on the right side of the formation descend to the east)
Rap anchor on the spire summit of Bookmark Pinnacle. Nate and Scott installed the aircraft cable anchor several years ago and it still looks brand new!
Rappelling.
Another bluebird day at Lumpy.

Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: July 30, 2023 (Sun)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed: Manhole Cover (5.8, 1p)
The main event of the day was Penis Chimney (5.9, 2p) to the top of The Bookmark Pinnacle, but we began the day by warming up on Manhole Cover, a fun 5.8 that squeezes through a few blocks at the top.
Looking up Manhole Cover (5.8).
Fun climbing.
Steph exiting the manhole. Photo by Nate.
The pitch can continue straight up to the Lower Terrace, but we decided to bust left and rappel back to the base from an anchor at the top of A Night on the Town (11b).
Rappelling back to the base.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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