The Citadel Main Page

The Citadel

Routes:

- Heart of Norway (5.10c, 2p)
- Cragging at The Citadel (5.10, 1 pitch)

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~9,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): various
Partner(s): various

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on The Citadel.

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I've climbed on The Citadel. Trip reports for these routes can be accessed from this page.

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Climbs I've Done

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Dates I've climbed this route:
Date: June 30, 2020 (Tue);  Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route climbs the giant, right-facing dihedral on the south face. This is an awesome route with sustained climbing on both pitches and perhaps the most splitter (not flared at all) crack on the entire Ridge.

Nate and I climbed this as a link up with Right Dihedral on The Pear.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

We approached by climbing Right Dihedral on The Pear and then scrambling up to the base of The Citadel. There is some mid-5th to get to the base of the route, which we soloed.

Pitch 1

5.10a
Begin with a bouldery roof, climb the crack above towards a roof, step right before you get to the roof, go up, and then back left via a finger crack traverse to a bolted anchor on a nice ledge. 

Descent

Rappel + Scramble
Make two 100' rappels back to the base. Scramble down low-5th to the base of The Citadel, or make another rap off a tree.

Photos


More climbing fun!
Date: April 14, 2024 (Sun)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed: Candyland Pitch 1 (5.10, 1p)
We had just climbed Good Timing (5.9, 3p) on The Pear, and planned to link this into a route on The Citadel. We chose to climb Candyland, suspecting it would be a bit of an adventure and difficult for the grade. The bolt protecting the 5.9 crux on the third pitch was apparently in need of replacement. The first pitch was a long traverse along a finger/hand crack, rated 10b. It was good climbing, but a bit dirty and stout for the grade. I ended up aiding myself across the crux section, spooked by the thought of a swing. I was impressed with Nate's lead. The second pitch looked dirty and we were worried about the stoutness of the grade given the bad bolt protecting a crux higher on the route, so we decided to rappel from a couple of fixed nuts. Maybe we will come back another day to try again. Or maybe not. There are a lot of other routes at Lumpy still on my list.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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