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The Pear Main Page

The Pear

Routes:

(Routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

- Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, 5p)
- Root of All Evil (5.9+, 4p)
- Good Timing (5.9, 3p)
- Right Dihedral (5.9, 2p)
- Gina's Surprise (5.4 R, 4p)

Region: Colorado

Elev: ~9,000 ft

Rock type: Granite

Type:

Date(s): various

Partner(s): various

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on The Pear.

Related trip reports:

Several other routes on other formations at Lumpy Ridge

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I've climbed on The Pear. Trip reports for these routes can be accessed from this page.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Climbs I've Done

CLICK ON ROUTE TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

(routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: May 18, 2022 (Wed); Partner: Scott Kimball

Intro

One of the classic moderate routes at Lumpy Ridge. I had a blast climbing this with Scott on a beautiful t-shirt and shorts spring day.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Pear, which is just left of The Bookend. Follow the trail signs to The Pear. Start on top of a little buttress below the arching dihedral of Batrachian Slab.

(other trip reports for The Pear may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.5

Step let to a good hand crack and hand traverse left when it fades. Belay at the base of a clean, right-facing dihedral.

Pitch 2

5.6

Lieback the dihedral to a long ledge.

Pitch 3

5.5

Climb the left-facing dihedral/slanting ramp. Belay at a v-slot or continue up the slot to link Pitches 3 and 4 in a rope-stretching lead.

Pitch 4

5.5

Follow the v-slot, aiming to be below what appears to be the main north-facing headwall. A gigantic ledge area and set up a comfy belay. This pitch can be linked with Pitch 3 for a rope-stretching lead.

Pitch 5

5.7 (or harder)

There are at least 4 options here (listed on mountainproject). The standard exit is to the right, following a small, right-facing corner up until you can exit around the right corner of this obstacle. From here head to the summit. This is a rope-stretching pitch.

Descent

Rappel + Hike

From the summit, rappel north from the bolted rap station. This dumps you into a cool corridor. Stay in the corridor and do some more climbing, continue up to do a route on The Citadel, or walk back to the base along the east side.

(other trip reports for The Pear may have more photos of the descent, including the "walk off" option)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: March 23, 2024 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

Bird closures were in place and most of the main features were closed. But The Pear remained open. Nate and I climbed two routes on this warm but cloudy early spring day: Gina's Surprise (5.4 R, 4p) and Root of All Evil (5.9+, 4p).

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Pear, which is just left of The Bookend. Follow the trail signs to The Pear. The route is on the left side of The Pear.

(other trip reports for The Pear may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.9+

Climb up to a roof, clip a bolt, and jam over the roof to a thin crack and belay.

Pitch 2

5.7

Continue up the crack, attractive 5.7. Where the crack ends traverse right across an unprotected face and belay on a lefge above.

Pitch 3

5.easy

Climb an easy crack and belay at a big tree.

Pitch 4

5.easy

Finish with the last pitch of Gina's Surprise.

Descent

Rappel + Hike

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: April 14, 2024 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

Our plan on this warm spring day was to link a route on The Pear with a route on The Citadel. We chose to climb Good Timing on The Pear. This route has some featured runnout face leading to a fun roof on the first pitch, followed by some sustained bolt-protected face climbing on the second pitch. We chose to try the walk off (which involved down-climbing a tree) rather than go all of the way to the summit.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Pear, which is just left of The Bookend. Follow the trail signs to The Pear.

(other trip reports for The Pear may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8+ (7R)

Get on top of some blocks, about 100 feet right of the Batrachian Dihedral and below a long roof band about 100 feet up. Climb a 5.7 R slab with less-than-perfect protection, turn the roof near a break on the right (5.8+), and traverse about 20 feet left to a belay at 2 bolts. Protect the second with an 0.4 cam placement directly above the roof.

Pitch 2

5.9

Engage excellent slab climbing up and slightly right past 3 bolts; head right into an easier crack, and belay on a ledge. You can continue to a tree.

Pitch 3

5.easy

Do an easy rightward traverse, gaining some elevation, to find the walk-off or a short rappel on the east side of the cliff.

Descent

"Walk-off"

We chose to exit with the "walk off" a pitch or two below the summit. This involved down-climbing a tree, which was kind of fun.

(other trip reports for The Pear may have more photos of the descent, including the "summit and rap" option)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: June 30, 2020 (Tue); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route climbs the giant left-facing dihedral on the right side of the south face.

Nate and I climbed this as a link up with Heart of Norway on The Citadel.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.9

Climb the corner. For a nice long pitch, there is a good belay stance after 60m, or you can belay sooner.

Pitch 2

5.easy

Continue up the corner to the walk-off ledge.

To top

5.easy

Continue up 4th and easy 5th to the top. This is the last pitch of Gina's Surprise.

Descent

Rappel + Hike

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: March 23, 2024 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Pear, which is just left of The Bookend. Follow the trail signs to The Pear. Hike around the right side of the south face and scramble up a gully to an obvious 1-foot wide dike.

(other trip reports for The Pear may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.4/5.5

Boulder up to the dike (thirty feet, no pro) and friction alon geither side. Belay on a ledge syste with a large pine tree.

Pitches 2-4

5.easier

Three easier pitches continue up the east shoulder.

Descent

Rappel + Hike

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.

The Pear Main Page

The Pear

Routes:

(Routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right) - Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, 5p) - Root of All Evil (5.9+, 4p) - Good Timing (5.9, 3p) - Right Dihedral (5.9, 2p) - Gina's Surprise (5.4 R, 4p)

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on The Pear.

Related trip reports:

Route Overlays

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Climbs I've Done

CLICK ON ROUTE TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

(routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, 5p)

Intro

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

Pitch 3

Pitch 4

Pitch 5

Descent

Root of All Evil (5.9+, 4p)

Intro

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

Pitch 3

Pitch 4

Descent

Good Timing (5.9, 3p)

Intro

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

Pitch 3

Descent

Right Dihedral (5.9, 2p)

Intro

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

Pitch 2

To top

Descent

Gina's Surprise (5.4 R, 4p)

Intro

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

Pitch 1

Pitches 2-4

Descent

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

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(Routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

- Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe (5.7, 5p)
- Root of All Evil (5.9+, 4p)
- Good Timing (5.9, 3p)
- Right Dihedral (5.9, 2p)
- Gina's Surprise (5.4 R, 4p)