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Sundance Buttress Main Page

Sundance Buttress

Routes:

(Routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

- Adrenaline (5.9R, 7-8p)
- English Opening (5.9, 6p)
- Slim Pickens (5.10a, 5-6p)
- Progression (5.10c, 5-6p)
- Grapevine (5.8+, 5-6p)
- Sidetrack (5.9, 4-6p)
- Mainliner (5.9, 5p)
- Guillotine (5.10c, 5p)
- Bushes (5.8, 4p)
- Kor's Flake (5.7+, 5p)
- Mr. President (5.10d, 5p)
- Turnkorner (5.10b, 7p)
- Idiot Wind (5.10b, 5p)
- Dalke-Covington Pitches 2-4 (5.8, 3p)
- Plumb Line (5.9, 5p)
- Cragging at Sundance Buttress (5.10-5.12a, 7 pitches)

Region: Colorado

Elev: ~9000 ft

Rock: Granite

Mode:

Date(s): various

Partner(s): various

This page contains trip reports for routes I've climbed on Sundance Buttress.

Related trip reports:

Several other routes on other formations at Lumpy Ridge

Route Overlays

Overlays for the routes I've climbed on Sundance Buttress. Trip reports for these routes can be accessed from this page.

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Climbs I've Done

CLICK ON ROUTE TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

(routes listed west to east, i.e. left to right)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: July 6, 2024 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

Adrenaline is the longest route on Sundance, covering 800 feet or more. Although Adrenaline starts right of English Opening, it crossed both that route and Dance, Dance Dance, ending far to the left. Nate and I thought that this route was as good as any on Sundance, and that the "R" rating was probably more like PG13.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. This route starts just right of the obvious dihedral of English Opening.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.9

Take the left-facing dihedral just right of English Opening.

Pitch 2

5.7

Climb up and left, cross into English Opening, then head left again to the right edge of Limber Pine Ledge.

Pitch 3

5.9R

Climb into the 150 foot long, left facing dihedral. This is also a part of the route Dance, Dance, Dance. Where that route goes left, step right and ascend the outside face of the corner, and belay at its top. This part was apparently R-rated but Nate found enough gear to take the R out of it.

Pitch 4

5.8

Climb to a grassy, left-facing flake and follow it to a belay.

(No photos. It seems like this pitch doesn't exist. It is possible we linked Pitches 4&5 without realizing it, since Pitch 5 was supposed to be a "short pitch" but it was not.)

Pitch 5

5.8

Adrenaline begins its long journey left.

Pitch 6

5.8

Go left on the ramp.

Pitch 7

5.9

5.9. Go left again and then up.

Pitch 8

5.easy

Climb to the top.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.

To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base.

Standard descent if not topping out: If not topping out, you can also descend via The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 19, 2023 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route follow a continuous left-facing dihedral system to the top of the crag. The route is about 100 feet left of the Eumenides dihedral. Nate and I thought that this route is just as good as any other route on Sundance. It defintely deserves more traffic.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. This route is located about 100 feet beyond Eumenides. Look for the next continuous dihedral. The start is below a roof/dihedral. Scramble an easy 4th class dihedral crack until about 40 feet below roof/dihedral.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.9

Climb the long-left facing corner 100 feet left of the Eumenides dihedral. Belay just above a cruxy 5.9 section.

Pitch 2

5.7

It is probably easiest to start off climbing to the left of the dihedral, and then traverse into the dihedral halfway up the pitch. Continue up the dihedral to a belay ledge with some old tat (or belay at the base of the black corner just above and left). It is also possible to climb the dihedral for the entire pitch, but it may be a bit harder this way.

Pitch 3

5.9

Climb up the black corner, looking for a hidden small cam around the crux. Continue up and undercling left across a slab to a belay ledge.

Pitch 4

5.8

Climb a vegetated dihedral on the left side of the ledge. Climb through a crack and bulge to exit the giant corner system and intersect Eumenides. Belay at a bucket seat.

Pitch 5

5.8

The original fifth pitch goes up and right and climbs a crack with a bush in it. It is also possible to climb directly up via Eumenides.

Pitch 6

5.8

Climb the rest of the way to the top. This is a short pitch.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

This route tops out, so the descent is from the top.

To descend from the top of Sundance, it is quickest to continue to the notch between the summit and the formation to the west. There are two rappels. From there, scramble eastward down the bushy gully on the backside of Sundance and back around to the base.

The way we decided to descend on this day:
It is also possible—but far less common—to continue to the summit of Sundance and hike down a gully on the west side of Sundance back to the base. I think it probably takes longer and is more brushy (no trail) but it has the benefit of summiting Sundance along the way and bringing you directly back to the base of the route.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the standard descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 22, 2021 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

A 3-star, steep, strenuous line on superb rock on the left side of Sundance that goes all the way to the summit. This was the 4th climb on Sundance that Nate and I had climbed in the last couple of weekends (and there would be more in the weekends ahead). This route is quite good and deserves more attention!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8

Start below a patch of orange lichen. Get into the crack right of the lichen and take it to a belay below a deep chimney.

Pitch 2

5.7+

Go up the chimney and exit left.

Pitch 3

5.6

Climb big knobs to a grassy ledge.

Pitch 4

5.10a

Choose the middle of three left-facing corners, and lieback past the crux.

Pitch 5

5.8

Move left to a roof-topped dihedral and turn it on the right.

Pitch 6

5.easy

Climb moderate rock to the top. Or link with Pitch 5 with some simulclimbing.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 14, 2021 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This compelling line links a series of left-facing corners on the left side of Sundance.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8

Start by the tree on the right, 40 feet off the ground. Climb a superb dihedral. Follow this up to an exposed stance below a short, white corner.

Pitch 2

5.10c

Progress up the corner (crux) and enter a hanging chimney. Pop onto Guillotine Wall at a big ledge, but continue up to a higher ledge below a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 3

5.9

Face climb just left of the dihedral to a stance. Continue straight up a bulging wall (mildly runnout 5.9).

Pitch 4

5.8- or 5.10a

Step left into a left-leading dihedral. The dihedral forks a big higher. Climb up one of the two branches (right branch easier).

Pitch 5

5.easy

Continue for 200 feet of easier climbing to the top.

(no photos of this pitch, since we broke left to the ledge since we had a few hours of hand-drilling bolts ahead of us)

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

(no photos)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 15, 2021 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

The bird closures had recently been removed from Sundance, and Nate and I were enjoying being able to climb again on our favorite of the formations at Lumpy. We had climbed Guillotine earlier in the week and Progression the day before, and today we climbed Grapevine. Grapevine follows continuous cracks on the left side of the wall. I particularly enjoyed the unique long chimney of Pitch 2. It only took a couple of hours to climb the route, but even so we narrowly beat a thundershower, as the skies unleashed on us just as we got to the top. Despite getting a bit wet on the descent, it was another good morning of climbing on Sundance.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8+

Climb a short crack just above the ground and move into the groove right of the lichen streak. Go up the groove to a ledge on the left.

Pitch 2

5.8

Begin with a short fist crack on the left, then take the obvious chimney line to a big ledge on the left. A long pitch.

Pitch 3

5.8 or 5.9

Step left to an easy crack system, then angle back right to another crack system. This crack system can be reached directly with a bit of unprotected 5.9; it leads to a nice ledge below a pronounced, left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 4

5.8+

Jam up the dihedral or climb cracks just left of the dihedral. Continue up into a nice crack system. Belay on a higher of two ledges on the right.

Pitch 5

5.easy

Continue for 250 feet of easier climbing to the top of Sundance. Or skip this pitch by just heading right to a ledge and begin the descent. The thunder was booming so this is what we did.

(no photos)

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: February 2, 2020 (Sun); Partner: Michael Cantrell

Intro

A springlike winter day at Lumpy. Sidetrack vies with Mainliner for the best 5.9 route on Sundance.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin about 50 feet left of Mainliner.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8+

Climb a thin left-trending crack and face climb to a stance below a slot.
We linked Pitches 1&2.

Pitch 2

5.9

Climb the slot on the left and then turn the roof on the left, and belay on a ledge above.
We linked Pitches 1&2.

Pitch 3

5.8

Climb the wide crack to a nice ledge.

Pitch 4

5.6

Climb a crack system to a good ledge.
We linked Pitches 4-6 as 2 pitches.

Pitch 5

5.9

Climb straight up a steep thin crack into an A-shaped roof. Wild stemming and jamming surmounts the roof. Belay on a nice ledge above.

Beware of continuing rightward onto Mainliner (as we did, and had to make a sketchy traverse left back to Sidetrack).
We linked Pitches 4-6 as 2 pitches. We accidentally veered right onto Mainliner for the first half of Pitch 5.

Pitch 6

5.7

Climb rightward on easy ground to join Mainliner. Climb a slot up to a belay ledge.
We linked Pitches 4-6 as 2 pitches.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

The descent begins from The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress.

Scramble to The Saddle. Downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: July 21, 2018 (Sat); Partner: Dow Williams
- Date: June 26, 2024 (Wed); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

Mainliner is one of Lumpy's best and most popular moderate long routes with exposure, fun climbing and short cruxes. The route ascends the tallest and most remote crag at Lumpy. This was my third climb at Lumpy Ridge and the first climb I ever did on Sundance, in July 2018, before I lived in Colorado. I climbed it a second time in June 2024 (just after they lifted the annual bird closure for the season on Sundance), when the trailhead is now a mere 5 minutes from my doorstep.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Pitch 1

5.7

Climb up cracks in the dihedral, ending at a ledge.

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Pitch 2

5.8

Climb a corner, then face climb up featured rock, and pull a roof, ending at a nice ledge.

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Pitch 3

5.9

Climb up a groove, then stem the corners to a ledge, then climb up a pod and finger crack over a bulge, then a good crack that ends at a nice ledge.

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Pitch 4

5.8

Climb up the dihedral, exiting left to a large belay ledge.

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Pitch 5

5.7

Climb the chimney slot, exiting right to the terrace.

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

July 2018 photos

June 2024 photos

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 10, 2021 (Tue); Partner: Nate Arganbright
- Date: August 29, 2021 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

The Guillotine climbs the solitary, thin crack that shoots up the wall a few paces left of the route Bushes which itself is just left of the popular route Kor's Flake (which I climbed in February 2020). I thought the climbing and the rock on this route was excellent, albeit a bit vegetated at times - this route should be climbed more often. Nate and I climbed this great route twice within three weeks.

August 10: The bird closures had lifted as of August 1, so Nate and I were eager to head to Sundance. This route marked the start of a streak of several weekends climbing at Sundance in the late summer and early fall (in order: Guillotine, Progression, Grapevine, Slim Pickens, Bushes, Guillotine). Can't get enough of Sundance!

August 29: Nate and I had planned to climb Mainliner (a classic Sundance route I had climbed a few years previous and would like to climb again for fun), but there was a party already on Mainliner and another on deck. So we decided to climb Guillotine again. I needed to get the crux 10c move clean on lead, and we also wanted to climb the version of Pitch 3 that was given in the guidebook (on August 10 we had climbed a crack that was not actually the route the pitch took in the guidebook.) A great route and worth another lap.

The following photos are a mix of the photos from our August 10 and August 29 climbs of Guillotine.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.10c

Jam the tips crack (crux just off the ground) all the way to a good stance near rappel slings on a horn.

Pitch 2

5.7

Continue the system to a better ledge in an inset (the Bay Window).

Pitch 3

5.9

There are a few options for this pitch, all about 5.9. The route described in the guidebook (and what we climbed on our second lap of this route in August 29) is to step right to a fixed pin in an exposed crack. Jam the crack and take a thin crack up to a belay below the huge hanging flake (the Guillotine blade). It is also possible to climb directly up from the belay on a crack system (which is what we did when we first climbed route on August 10).

Pitch 4

5.7

Work right to the hanging chimney behind the blade. Exciting. Belay up and right.

Pitch 5

5.6

Climb a deep groove to the saddle. This is the last pitch of Bushes.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 28, 2021 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

You'll climb through a lot of bushes on this route, but in between the bushes are some stretches of really good rock, varied 5.8+ climbing, and nice belay locations. This was the 5th climb on Sundance that Nate and I had climbed on Sundance in the last few weekends.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.8

Climb the large, right-arcing open book dihedral past several bushes fifty feet left of Kor's Flake to a ledge.

Pitch 2

5.8

Go up a right-facing dihedral for fifty feet and angle right on face to another right-facing corner.

Pitch 3

5.7

Follow the dihedral, which leans left to become a ramp. Share Guillotine's fourth belay or go a bit higher.

Pitch 4

5.6

Climb a deep groove to the saddle. This is the same as Guillotine's final pitch. You can also climb face to the left, which is what we did.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: February 22, 2020 (Sat); Partner: Jon Oulton
- Date: September 21, 2025 (Sun); Partner: Erin Houlihan, Linn Kelley, Colby Smith

Intro

With its sustained movement, airy exposure, and unforgettable wide flake pitch, Kor's Flake is easily one of Colorado’s best 5.7s. Both times I’ve climbed it, I was glad to have a #4, #5, and #6 for the wide flake pitch that gives the route its name. I imagine Kor just ran this out in the 1950's FA....in stiff boots nonetheless.

My first lap was in February 2020 on a perfect winter day. Jon and I ticked two routes—starting with Kor’s Flake on Sundance and finishing with Hot Licks on The Bookend during the hike out. (Might as well get full use out of the wide gear once you’ve carried it up there!)

The second time was on the last day of summer, September 2025, when I joined my friends Linn and Erin, along with their friend Colby. We got an early start to beat the rain. We climbed as two rope teams—Erin and I on one, Linn and Colby on the other—and moved quickly, topping out and returning to our packs by late morning. At the time, I was in the middle of packing up my place in Estes Park for a move back to Washington, and it felt great to take a break from the chaos to share one more climb at Lumpy with Colorado friends. It won’t be the last adventure together—I’m already looking forward to more trips with Linn, Erin, and now Colby too.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin below a chimney capped with a chockstone left of the deep chimney of Banana Peels.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Pitch 1

5.6

Squeeze up the chimney, and then continue up a crack system to a belay ledge below Kor's Flake.

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Pitch 2

5.7+

Work up a corner to gain Kor's Flake. Jam up a crack on the flake ramp to a belay stance with webbing. Don't run it father since no good belays are higher in the wide crack.

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Pitch 3

5.7+

Continue up the remainder of Kor's Flake. This widens and you have a choice of squeezing in behind it or climbing the face around it. It is moderately runnout. A #5 cam protects much of the wide stuff, and a #6 reduces the runnout a bit. Belay at a small slopey ledge at the end of the flake (you can also belay a bit before this if you prefer to watch your follower grovel). Really fun pitch.

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Pitch 4

5.7

Climb up and left into a group of small dihedrals. Traverse left and jam a hand crack to a belay ledge. A surprisingly great pitch of climbing on featured rock.

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Pitch 5

5.7

Climb up to a roof and pass it on its left. This is the last "real" move on the route. 5.easy leads to the saddle.

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

February 2020 photos

September 2025 photos

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 18, 2022 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This challenging route—FA by Layton Kor and Steve Komito in the early 60's— takes a direct line to the saddle beginning at wide, right-facing, flared crack. It is a must-do 5.10 route at Lumpy. Nate and I enjoyed a perfect late summer day on this route. Nate cruised the tricky crux lead.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.9

Climb the chimney/crack with stems and jams.

Pitch 2

5.10d

Continue the line as it bends right to a thin crux. Switch left along short, steep cracks to a belay perch below two parallel cracks.

Pitch 3

5.9+

Jam the left crack.

Pitches 4&5

5.easy

Climb up moderate terrain to the saddle. These two pitches can be linked into a single rope-stretching 70m pitch.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 3, 2019 (Sat); Partner: Brad Mering
- Date: September 25, 2022 (Sun); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This route is the quintessential 5.10 crack climbing test piece at Lumpy. The route climbs the longest section of the wall, following a long crack system up the middle of Turnkorner Buttress though the left end of a large roof band. The climbing is varied and strenuous.

I first climbed this route in August 2019, as my fifth day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge. I found the route to be superb, and challenging. I climbed this route again three years later, in September 2022. Now my forty-sixth day of climbing at Lumpy Ridge, I found the route quite a bit less intimidating (although some sections still certainly held my attention), but equally superb. This is one of my favorite routes at Lumpy Ridge.

A note on big gear: The larger gear is needed for the pitch through the roof and up the chimney/flare/crack above (this is Pitch 5 as per the route description below); apart from this pitch, a single #3 is the biggest piece needed. Both times I have climbed this route we had a #5, and found it nice to have for the moves off the belay on Pitch 5. Perhaps a deeply-placed #4 could have protected the moves off of the belay, but a #5 is much easier to place and clean. On my 2019 ascent, we had a single #5, double #4, and double #3 and were quite comfortable. On my 2022 ascent, we had just a single #5, #4, and #3 and found this to be sufficient. Note that I did not lead Pitch 5 either time, so this is my perception as a follower.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin at a right-facing dihedral just left of a flake boulder 100 feet left from where the access trail meets the cliff.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Pitch 1

5.9

Stem and jam the corner.

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Pitch 2

5.9

Jam a handcrack to a flared crack to a belay on blocks on a ledge. Or continue and link with Pitch 3.

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Pitch 3

5.9

Face climb along a thin corner to a sloping ledge with an old bolt and a significant amount of bird crap. This pitch can be easily linked with Pitch 2 or Pitch 4 (in fact, I think it is linked with Pitch 4 in the Gillette guidebook).

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Pitch 4

5.10b

Climb an overhanging hand/fist crack followed by an off-width slot (can be protected with a #2) to a semihanging belay below the roof band. This pitch is short and can be linked with Pitch 3 (in fact, I think it is linked with Pitch 3 in the Gillette guidebook).

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Pitch 5

5.10a

Climb up the strenuous off-width crack over an imposing roof, using some face features out right to get through it. A #5 is nice to have on this section, but it is not needed for any other section of the route. Jam the long, steep flared chimney until it ends at a good stance. Or stretch the rope out and climb all the way to a big ledge about 300 feet below the summit.

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Pitches 6&7

5.6 or 5.9

There are at least a few options for the final 300 feet to the top starting at the big ledge. The easier (5.6) finish is to angle up and left to a crack that leads to low-angled slabs. The harder (5.9) finish is to climb a wide-hands crack to the right and then angle back left to a ledge (either by a diagonal crack or some face moves through some scoops), and climb easier terrain to the top. It is also possible to traverse straight right from the large ledge at the top of Pitch 5 to the Nose Rappel Route (4 rappels with a single 70 off slung trees).

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

August 2019 photos

September 2022 photos

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 10, 2024 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

This is one of the finest routes on Lumpy Ridge, a wild climb with incredible exposure. I had been pestering Nate to climb this route for a few years (a typical conversation: Nate: "What do you want to climb at Lumpy this weekend?" Steph: "Idiot Wind."). We had tried to climb it in September 2022, but gusty winds ironically forced us to bail before the crux. So it was nice to finally climb it!

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin at a thin crack left of Firebird.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

(no photos)

Pitch 1

5.9+R (or 5.9)

Climb the crack to its end, and ascend the unprotected face (5.9+ R) beyond up and right into a left-facing corner formed by a pillar. Ascend the pillar (shared with Firebird) to a ledge at it top, and belay just above at the base of a right-facing corner. This is a long pitch. The thin crack and runout face above can be avoided by following Firebird (the corner that starts to the right) for the entire pitch. Or, as a third option, there is a thin crack with a slightly less difficult runout section between Firebird and the official start of Idiot Wind.

Nate and I had climbed the 5.9+R of the first pitch of Idiot Wind in September 2022, so this time we opted to try the thin crack with the slightly less difficult runnout section.

Pitch 2

5.7R (or 5.8)

Face climb up left (5.7 R) to an open book dihedral, then escape right at a short crack leading to the second belay on The Nose. You can also start this pitch by going directly up a right-facing crack and joining mid-pitch, but this is a bit harder (~5.8).

Pitch 3

5.10b

Follow The Nose to the edge of the huge ceiling band, but keep traverseing left (instead of moving straight up) past two bolts to the bolt belay on Firebird. Heart-stopping exposure!

Pitch 4

5.9

Take a short crack up right, then make a rising traverse left above the lip of the roof (four bolts, 5.9) to a short crack. Jam the crack (5.9) to a fixed pin and bolt at the left edge of the upper roof. This is the hanging belay anchor used on the first acent, but it is better to contnue over the roof (5.10a lieback) to a god ledge thirty feet higher.
Nate decided to belay at the lower belay. The advantage of this is he could see me as I climbed the pitch.

Pitch 5

5.10a

Continue over the roof (5.10a lieback) to a good ledge. A 5.8 crack on the right goes up to the big ledge and traverses across the buttress.

Pitches 6&7

5.7

The last two pitches follow moderate terrain 300 feet to the top.
We did not climb these pitches because we opted to descend via the Nose Rappel Route, which starts off the right end of the ledge at the top of Pitch 5.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

To descend from the top of Pitch 7, scramble to The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.

To descend from the top of Pitch 5, take the Nose Rappel Route (4 rappels with a single 60). We opted for the Nose Rappel Route.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: September 24, 2022 (Sat); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

We had initially planned to climb Idiot Wind (5.10b, 5-7p), but it was quite windy, which wasn't ideal for the empty-your-bladder-before-leading Pitch 3. So we rappelled from the top of Pitch 2 to the base of Pitch 2 of Dalke-Covington, and climbed this route up the buttress. Dalke-Covington climbs the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake. We opted to descend via the Nose Rappel route (4 rappels with a single 70) rather than climb the final 300 feet of moderate terrain to the top. This was the first time I had descended via the Nose Rappel route, so it was good to check it out.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin below and left of the Dalke-Covington Flake.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

~5.6

Climb to the base of the gully system along the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake.
We climbed the first two pitches of Idiot Wind and rappelled to the top of Pitch 1 of Dalke-Covington so we did not climb Pitch 1 of Dalke-Covington. The first two pitches of Idiot Wind were a great start to this adventure.

Pitch 2

5.6

Climb the gully system on the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake. Belay at a nice small ledge about 2/3 of the way up to the top of the flake.

Pitch 3

5.6

Continue up the gully system on the left side of the Dalke-Covington Flake. Belay at a ledge above and left of the top of the flake.

Pitch 4

5.8

Stray left from the top of the flake to a wide, 5.8 crack that ends on the big ledge cutting across Turnkorner Buttress.

Pitches 5&6

5.7

The last two pitches begin at a left-angling crack and then follow moderate terrain 300 feet to the top.
We did not climb these pitches because we opted to descend via the Nose Rappel Route, which starts at the ledge at the top of Pitch 4.

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

To descend from the top of Pitch 6, scramble to The Saddle between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble eastward down the gully and back around to the base.

To descend from the top of Pitch 4, take the Nose Rappel Route (4 rappels with a single 70). We opted for the Nose Rappel Route.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the descent; note that routes on the left side that top out have a slightly different descent than those that end near The Saddle)

Dates I've climbed this route:
- Date: August 31, 2022 (Wed); Partner: Nate Arganbright

Intro

An enjoyable not-often-climbed line that runs more or less straight up the slabs and cracks left of a group of black water streaks.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin at the outside corner of a huge block that drops down from the right side of a low roof band.

(other trip reports for Sundance may have more photos of the approach, but it is quite straightfoward)

Pitch 1

5.8-

Edge up the corner on pretty rock, tie off a knob, and step left above the roof band (exciting 5.8-). Lead up to a dead tree with rappel slings and belay ten feet to the below the corner.

Pitch 2

5.9

Step right into a left-facing flake and follow it for a full pitch. Go left at a little crystalline band and belay.

Pitch 3

5.6

Lead over the right side of a bulging blob and continue along knobby rock. Go back left to a bushy belay ledge below a short, roof-capped, right-facing dihedral.

Pitch 4

5.9

Advance toward the overhang but escape right below the roof. Go back left above the roof and enter a long right-facing corner. Chimney up to crux jams and stretch the rope out to a belay tree. Rope drag can be an issue above the roof, but the second half of this pitch can be linked with Pitch 5 to the top.

Pitch 5

5.easy

Go easily to the summit.

(no photos - as mentioned above, we linked this easy climbing with the guidebook end of Pitch 4)

Descent

Rappels + Scramble

To get in some harder cragging or to avoid the multipitching crowds, Sundance has some great 1-2 pitch options at its base. The rock on Sundance is superb.

Photos

More climbing fun!

Date: August 31, 2022 (Mon)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed:
• Under Babylon (5.10+, 1p)

More climbing fun!

Date: September 11, 2022 (Sun)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed:
• Bonzo (5.10b, 1p)
• Guillotine Pitches 1&2 (5.10c, 2p)
• Bosch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid Pitches 1&2 (5.12a, 2p)
• Whiteman Pitch 1 (5.11c, 1p)

More climbing fun!

Date: September 24, 2022 (Sat)

Partner: Nate Arganbright

Climbed:
• Idiot Wind Pitches 1&2 (5.9R, 2p)

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