Paradox Valley: Atomic Energy Crag, Carpenter Ridge, Psycho Tower, and 16-Z Crags

Paradox Valley

- 1st trip to Paradox Valley Area: Thankgiving 2021
- 2nd trip to Paradox Valley Area: Spring Break 2022

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~5,500 ft
Rock type: Wingate Sandstone, Dakota Sandstone, Navajo Sandstone
Type: 
Trip Report 1:
Thanksgiving 2021: Atomic Energy Crag, Carpenter Ridge, Psycho Tower
Date(s): November 25-27, 2021 (Thu-Sat)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright
Trip Report 2:
Spring Break 2022: Carpenter Ridge, 16-Z
Date(s): March 19-22, 2022 (Sat-Tue)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

The "Wild Wild West" of Paradox Valley is a remote area of western Colorado near the town of Naturita. With no nearby population centers, climbing in this area is wide open. Most of the rock is Wingate or Dakota sandstone, with everything from short crags to pinnacles to long sandstone cracks. By a stroke of fortune that keeps the crowds away, the guidebook for this area ("Wild Wild West" by Charlie Fowler and Damon Johnston) is out of print and nearly impossible to find, and even if one does happen upon it, one has to really dig in to realize the potential for spectacular climbing in the area.

The first time I climbed in the Paradox Valley area was over Thanksgiving Weekend 2021. Nate had been to Paradox Valley multiple times over the years, and it sounded like a great place to climb in the sun on great rock and avoid the Thanksgiving crowds elsewhere. Nate and I returned about 4 months later during Spring Break 2022 for another awesome trip.

On this page, I give photos from my two trips to Paradox Valley. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done in Paradox Valley.

Trip Reports

CLICK THE DROP DOWN TO SEE PHOTOS FROM EACH TRIP

Intro

It was Thanksgiving weekend, and both Nate and I had 4.5 days off (mid-Wed through Sunday). Time for a climbing trip! We desired steep splitter sandstone cracks in the sun, but without crowds. Paradox Valley sounded like a great option. With the 7 hour drive, we would be able to do 3 full days of climbing (Thu-Fri-Sat).

We booked a room at the Rimrock Hotel in the small town of Naturita. This was well worth the $80 a night for a warm place to stay during the long, cold nights of November in the desert. In the evenings, we ate simple dinners in our room, watched Yellowstone, and read books. And of course I spent some time downloading, organizing, and posting the photos from the days adventures, entertaining my incessant need to document the world around me. We enjoyed leisurely mornings sleeping in, drinking a couple of coffees, and doing computer stuff before heading out for a day of desert climbing. While daytime temperatures were probably in the 40s, the air was calm and the sun was out, so it felt quite pleasant on the red sandstone.

The trip ended up being a nice tour of the climbing options in the Paradox Valley area. On Thursday, we completed our drive (we had gotten as far as Grand Junction on Wednesday night) and cragged at Atomic Energy Crag: 9 pitches of 5.7-5.11 climbing, both sport and trad. On Friday, we hauled 6 sets of cams up to Paradise Wall at Carpenter Ridge, and enjoyed a day cragging on a few of the wall's steep and difficult thin splitters. On Saturday, we we tagged the summit of the classic 4-pitch Psycho Tower via a rather wild and exposed 5.9 (with 5.11 bonus pitch) route on the south face.

Below are some photos from our Thanksgiving 2021 climbing trip to Paradox Valley. Enjoy!

    Photos


    More climbing fun!
    Date: November 25 (Thu)
    Climbed at: Atomic Energy Crag
    Rock Type: Dakota sandstone

    More climbing fun!
    Date: November 26 (Fri)
    Climbed at: Carpenter Ridge
    Rock Type: Wingate sandstone

    Day 2: Cragging at Carpenter Ridge, Paradise Wall (5.10+-5.11, 4 routes)

    "350+ feet", "two long ropes and all your cams", "fantastic crack climbing"

    More climbing fun!
    Date: November 27 (Sat)
    Climbed at: Psycho Tower
    Rock Type: Wingate sandstone

    Day 3: Regular Route aka Psycho-Path (3p, 5.9) + Nameless Face start (1p, 5.11) on Psycho Tower 

    "a wild tower route with highly worthy variations", "200 feet", "on the cover to the Wild Wild West guidebook"

    Intro

    For Spring Break, Nate and I went on a 1-week climbing roadtrip. We started off the trip with four days in the Paradox Valley area, climbing sunny sandstone splitters. We spent three days at the 16-Z area, where we camped on the rim right above the cliffs and descended down to climb on the sunny Wingate and Navajo sandstone. We enjoyed having this unique area to ourselves. The fourth day we packed up camp and drove 1.5 hours and spent the day at Carpenter Ridge climbing some steep desert splitters.

    After four days, we continued our climbing road trip by heading to Shelf Road, and then back to Estes Park area to climb locally.

    Below are some photos from our Spring Break climbing trip to Paradox Valley. Enjoy!

      Photos


      More climbing fun!
      Dates: March 19-21 (Sat-Mon)
      Climbed at: 16 Z Crags
      Rock Type: Wingate & Navajo sandstone

      Days 1-3: 23 routes (5.9-5.12)

      "40-80 feet", "remote", "Wingate and highly featured Navajo sandstone", "variety of crack and face routes"

      More climbing fun!
      Date: March 22 (Tue)
      Climbed at: Carpenter Ridge: Mad Bull Area and Colt 45 Area
      Rock Type: Wingate sandstone

      List of Climbs I've done in the Paradox Valley area

      LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

      Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

      Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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