Dates: March 21-23, 2025 (Fri-Sun)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed at: Main Penitente Canyon, Rock Garden
Nate and I were both able to take Friday off and get off work early on Thursday, so we decided to take the opportunity to check out Penitente Canyon, where neither of us had ever been. On the way we picked up a Penitente guidebook (new as of 2022) at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder. We found a nice campspot within walking distance of the trailhead. We climbed for three days.
On Friday, we climbed ten different routes/pitches in the main Penitente Canyon. Five of these routes were 5.11. We enjoyed the climbing - although the routes were short, it was fun climbing on good rock with great friction.
On Saturday, we decided to explore Rock Canyon, which is accessed by hiking through the main Penitente Canyon and taking a 10 minute side trail. After a morning there, we returned ot the main Penitente Canyon for the afternoon. We focused part of our energies on a 12a, which we each toproped three times and figured out the crux moves. The day turned out cloudier than expected, but wasn't too cold. We climbed a total of seven routes (nine pitches due to the three laps on the 12a). Despite it being a weekend the area was not very crowded. Another fun and productive day!
On Sunday, we enjoyed another relaxing morning in the van waiting for the temperatures to warm up, and around 9am we hiked back into the canyon and did five more routes. It was warm and sunny, the nicest day yet, so it was hard to leave, but we left at 2pm to begin the ~5 hour drive back to Estes Park. We stopped once to get a burger for Nate and diet Pepsi for me.