Penitente Canyon Climbing 2025-present

Penitente Canyon Climbing 2025-present

Route:

various

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~8,000 ft
Rock type: Welded Tuff
Type: 
Date(s): 2025(x3 days)
Partner(s): Nate Arganbright

Penitente Canyon is a beautiful, small canyon on BLM lands located in the San Luis Valley of south central Colorado. The area is primarily a sport climbing destination with a few trad lines. There is also some bouldering. The rock is a volcanic welded tuff, which is bulletproof rock with great friction. The character of the routes ranges from small crimps and edges to hueco-ridden walls. Most of the routes are quite short, but pack a punch. The majority of routes are 5.10 & above. The bolting is adequate but at times keeps you on your toes. A stick-clip is mandatory for the starts of most routes (stick-clipping the second bolt is ideal on most routes).

Camping is onsite, and reservations made via rec.gov.

The first time I climbed at Penitente Canyon was in March 2025, for a three day weekend.

On this page, I give photos from climbing at Penitente Canyon, organized by date. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done at Penitente Canyon.

Photos

SOME RANDOM PHOTOS FROM CRAGGING AT PENITENTE CANYON


More climbing fun!
Dates: March 21-23, 2025 (Fri-Sun)
Partner: Nate Arganbright
Climbed at: Main Penitente Canyon, Rock Garden
Nate and I were both able to take Friday off and get off work early on Thursday, so we decided to take the opportunity to check out Penitente Canyon, where neither of us had ever been. On the way we picked up a Penitente guidebook (new as of 2022) at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder. We found a nice campspot within walking distance of the trailhead. We climbed for three days.

On Friday, we climbed ten different routes/pitches in the main Penitente Canyon. Five of these routes were 5.11. We enjoyed the climbing - although the routes were short, it was fun climbing on good rock with great friction.

On Saturday, we decided to explore Rock Canyon, which is accessed by hiking through the main Penitente Canyon and taking a 10 minute side trail. After a morning there, we returned ot the main Penitente Canyon for the afternoon. We focused part of our energies on a 12a, which we each toproped three times and figured out the crux moves. The day turned out cloudier than expected, but wasn't too cold. We climbed a total of seven routes (nine pitches due to the three laps on the 12a). Despite it being a weekend the area was not very crowded. Another fun and productive day!

On Sunday, we enjoyed another relaxing morning in the van waiting for the temperatures to warm up, and around 9am we hiked back into the canyon and did five more routes. It was warm and sunny, the nicest day yet, so it was hard to leave, but we left at 2pm to begin the ~5 hour drive back to Estes Park. We stopped once to get a burger for Nate and diet Pepsi for me.

List of Climbs I've done at Penitente Canyon

LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

Previous and Next Adventures

(March 2025: First time cragging at Penitente Canyon)

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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