Sheep Nose, Lost in Space (5.9, 3-4p) and other climbs

Sheep Nose

Route:

Lost in Space

5.9, 3-4p

(and a few other single-pitch climbs)

Lost in Space is of the most popular routes up Sheep Nose, climbing cracks and corners and knobs directly up the southeast buttress in 3 to 4 pitches of fun and moderate climbing on beautifully featured rock.

Region: Colorado
Elev: ~7,000-8,000 ft
Rock type: Granite
Type: 
Date(s): January 25, 2020 (Sat)
Partner(s): Natalie Huey

Sheep Nose (elev 8,832) is the obvious granite monolith located on the drive to Turkey Rocks or Thunder Ridge (just before the road turns off to head to Thunder Ridge). It is hard not to want to climb to the top. Sheep Nose is known for fine delicate face climbs and thin cracks of a non-strenuous nature. There are several routes, with a few of them being fun and popular classics.

The first time I ticked off the summit of Sheep Nose was on a sunny day in January 2020.

On this page, I give my trip report for Lost in Space. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done at Sheep Nose.

Route Overlay

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Trip Report for Lost in Space

THIS TRIP REPORT IS STILL MOSTLY IN THE EMBEDDED HTML FORMAT OF MY OLD WEBSITE.

Photos:
Photo descriptions:

Approach 
Park directly in front of Sheep Nose. Hike climbers' trail to base of southeast face.
1.    
2.    
3.    
  
  
1. Sheep Nose and giant booger.
2. Sheep Nose.
3. Natalie on the pleasant approach to the base of the route.



Pitch 
1
5.8. Climb the slabby, right-angling open book crack to the obvious left-facing dihedral, and climb up that to its end and a decent gear belay. 
4.    
5.    
6.     
4. Looking up Pitch 1.
5. Corner on Pitch 1.
6. Natalie nearing the end of Pitch 1.




Pitch 
2
5.9. Climb up and to the right on a steep wall with good features. Climb featured rock on the outer edge of the arete up and around the left side of a roof, and then follow crack systems up to a nice big belay ledge. The crux occurs near the end of the pitch where the corner steepens and a few "slabby crack" moves must be executed.
7.    
8.    
9.     
7. Natalie starting up Pitch 2.
8. Featured rock on Pitch 2.
9. Corner on Pitch 2.




Pitch 
3
5.7. Head up the obvious chimney above the belay, make a few moves to the right, and follow the corner and crack system to another good belay ledge. Stop here or continue up Pitch 4 far enough to get past the 5th class.
10.    
11.    
12.    
10. Natalie at the belay at the top of Pitch 2. The start of Pitch 3 is above her.
11. Start of Pitch 3.
12. Pitch 3 climbs the corner on the right.

Pitch
4
(Linked with Pitch 3)
5.4. Climb over a few short walls and traverse to the left on a fourth-class slab all the way to the summit. The 5th class part of this pitch is easily linked with Pitch 3.
13.  
13. 5.easy climbing on Pitch 4. 



Top!
Enjoy the view!
14.        
14. The summit.

Descent
Two options: (1) Rappel. Walk a bit west and then SW and locate a pair of rap bolts.Two raps with a single rope lead you to a ramp. Hike down the ramp and curve around back to packs at base of route.
(2) Walk off to the west. We did not go this way but it looked pretty mellow. A short rap might help negotiate a steep section near the base of the formation.
15.    
16.       
15. The first rap bolts.
16. The second rap bolts.

More Photos

SOME RANDOM PHOTOS FROM CRAGGING AT SHEEP NOSE

Date: January 25, 2020 (Sat);  Partner: Natalie Huey
Climbed at: Sheep Nose

List of Climbs I've done at Sheep Nose

LIST MAINLY FOR PERSONAL RECORD-KEEPING | DATES I'VE CLIMBED THERE ON SECOND TAB

Previous and Next Adventures

(January 2020: Lost in Space and first time cragging at Sheep Nose)

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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