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Shoshoni – Apache – Navajo – Niwot Ridge Traverse (~14 miles round trip, ~5000 ft gain/loss, 4 summits, rock up to 4th)

Shoshoni - Apache - Navajo - Niwot Ridge

Routes:

~14 miles round trip, ~5000 ft gain/loss, 4 summits, rock up to 4th

- Shoshoni Peak (12,967')
- Apache Peak (13,441')
- Navajo Peak (13,409')
- Niwot Ridge (13,023')

Scoping out another rugged section of the LA Freeway.

Region: Colorado
Elev: 10,300-13,441 ft
Rock type: Gneiss & Granite
Type: 
Date(s): July 15, 2024 (Mon)
Partner(s): solo

Related trip reports:

Route Overlay

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Looking back along Niwot Ridge, can see Navajo, Apache, Chessmen, Shoshoni

Maps

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Shohoni-Apache-Navajo-Niwot Traverse
Brainard Lake Area traverses

Intro

I have my sights set on the "LA Freeway", a 38(or so)-mile ridgeline traverse from Longs Peak to Arapaho Peaks. I've been scoping out various "crux" sections. One section I wanted to scope out was the section between Shoshoni and Navajo Peaks. This section is quite rugged in appearance, containing multipe towers (called "The Chessmen"), but apparently they can be traversed on the east by 3rd and 4th class scrambling (and indeed they can be, as I discovered).

The traverse ended up being a fuller day than I expected, taking me a bit over 9 hours. I didn't see a single other person on the ridge, and I was treated to several cool moments, such as encountering a mamma ptarmigan and her energetic quintuplets, hiking past numerous fields of wildflowers, navigating an efficient and enjoyable 3rd/4th class path from Shoshoni to Navajo, spotting an elusive pine martin, seeing the weather equipment and Boulder watershed signs on Niwot Ridge, and more. What an enjoyable way to get in some exercise.

The following page contains a map and photos from my traverse.

Photos

Niwot Picnic Area/Trailhead to Pawnee Pass to Shoshoni Peak

Niwot Trailhead: 10,300 ft
Pawnee Pass: 12,542 ft
Shoshoni Peak: 12,967 ft
Split time: 3:22
Cumulative time: 3:22
Hiked the trail to Pawnee Pass. Ascended North Ridge (2nd) of Shoshoni Peak.
An after hours sign at the Brainard Lake entrance gate. Even if you come in after hours, you are required to get a timed entry for the place you park. I had gotten a 5am timed entry for Niwot Picnic/Trailhead, since this was the closest I could find (none left at Long Lake Trailhead).
Sunrise. 5:45 am. I was already nearing Pawnee Pass by this time.
Morning alpenglow on Pawnee Pass.
Niwot Ridge. This would be where I would end the traverse.
A protective mamma ptarmigan. In this photo she is sitting on five baby ptarmigans. I tried not to get too close as I didn't want to worry the mom too much or make her and her quintuplets flee and have to regroup.
Mamma ptarmigan and babies.
Mamma ptarmigan and babies.
Mamma ptarmigan and babies.
By the time I was finished taking photos of the ptarmigan, the sun was higher in the sky.
Pawnee Pass.
I headed across the boulder field towards Shoshoni.
Getting closer to Shoshoni.
Final easy scramble to summit of Shoshoni.
On top of Shoshoni.

Shoshoni Peak to Apache Peak

Shoshoni Peak: 12,967 ft
Apache Peak: 13,441 ft
Split time: 1:37
Cumulative time: 4:59
Traversed from Shoshoni to the start of "The Chessmen". Most of the towers can by bypassed on the east by 3rd and 4th class scrambling on exposed ledges. The routefinding is pretty intuitive, especially if you just stick to the east side. After passing by all of the towers, I scrambled easily to the summit of Apache.
A view of Apache and The Chessmen from Shoshoni.
Apache and The Chessmen from the start of the traverse below The Chessmen.
Lots of exposed 3rd and 4th on the traverse below The Chessmen.
A reflection of Lone Eagle Peak (I think) in a tarn far below on the west side.
A field of alpine columbine.
Alpine columbine. This is currently my new desktop photo.
White Knight (I think), the first of The Chessmen.
Knight's Pawn (I think), the second of The Chessmen.
Rook and Bishop.
I munched on Bit-0-Honeys as I did the traverse below The Chessmen.
Parry's Primrose.
Parry's Primrose.
Sky Pilot peeking out of crack in rock.
Sky Pilot peeking out of crack in rock.
A healthy bunch of Sky Pilot.
Sky Pilot.
I scrambled up to this notch.
Looking back down at The Chessmen from the end of the traversse below them. The last of The Chessmen is the King.
Headed towards the summit of Apache.
On top of Apache.

Apache Peak to Navajo Peak

Apache Peak: 13,441 ft
Dicker's Peck: 13,120 ft
Navajo Peak: 13,409 ft
Split time: 1:00
Cumulative time: 5:59
Descended South Ridge (3rd) of Apache Peak, traversed around Dicker's Peck on its east side, and ascended West Chimney (4th) of Navajo Peak.
Looking down the ridge towards Navajo Peak.
Niwot Ridge highpoint on left, Navajo Peak on right.
Big-rooted or alpine springbeauty.
A pine martin. I tried to get closer for a better photo but he bounded off.
Dicker's Peck. There is a 5.5 route to the top which I was tempted to solo, but it looked a bit steep and I decided the consequence of the fall wasn't worth it.
The West Gully (4th) to get to the top of Navajo.
On top of Navajo Peak.

Navajo Peak to Niwot Ridge

Navajo Peak: 13,409 ft
Niwot Ridge highpoint: 13,023 ft
Split time: 0:45
Cumulative time: 6:44
Descended East Ridge (3rd) of Navajo Peak and ascended West Ridge (3rd) of Niwot Ridge to highpoint.
Looking along Niwot Ridge.
On top of Niwot Ridge high point.
City of Boulder Set July 28, 1910 Mann & Heinz Triangulation Monument 15.
Niwot Ridge.
Niwot Ridge is on the boundary of the City of Boulder Watershed.
Niwot Ridge is on the boundary of the City of Boulder Watershed.
Some weather equipment on Niwot Ridge.
Some weather equipment on Niwot Ridge.
Some weather equipment on Niwot Ridge.
Some weather equipment on Niwot Ridge.
A view back at the terrain I had covered. From right to left: Shoshoni, The Chessmen, Apache, Navajo, Niwot Ridge.

Niwot Ridge to Trailhead

Niwot Ridge highpoint: 13,023 ft
Niwot Trailhead: 10,300 ft
Split time: 2:34
Cumulative time: 9:18
From Niwot Ridge, I desceded a steep grassy slope to the Lake Isabelle Trail and hiked back to the trailhead. I had parked at Niwot Picnic/Trailhead Parking.
I headed down this steep grassy slope back to the main trail.
Parry's Primrose.
Back at the Niwot Picnic/Trailhead Parking. Full!

Previous and Next Adventures

Lower/Upper East Face (Tight Squeeze + Kor's S'mores), RMNP, CO
Audubon - Paiute - Toll - Pawnee Traverse, Indian Peaks, CO

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