I was in Zermatt for the week with Nate Beckwith. We were nearing the end of our week. Our main objective—the
Matterhorn—had already been successfully climbed earlier in the week, so we went looking for another classic alpine objective with the same emphasis on rock rather than snow. We settled on the Zinalrothorn (4,221 m) via its Normal Route (Southeast Ridge from the Rothornhütte to the Gabel, then Southwest Ridge to the summit).
Widely regarded as one of the finest alpine rock climbs in the Alps, the Zinalrothorn is a mountain for rock scramblers. Its elegant pyramid of solid brown gneiss rises prominently above the surrounding glaciers, offering sustained ridge climbing on excellent rock with relatively straightforward glacier travel and little technical snow or ice in typical summer conditions. The standard route follows the Southeast Ridge above the Rothornhütte before traversing the south face to the Gabel, where it joins the Southwest Ridge for several enjoyable, exposed pitches to the summit. The technical crux is only about 5.4 (UIAA III+, AD-), making it an outstanding objective for experienced scramblers and alpine rock climbers.
The 4,221-meter summit rewards climbers with one of the finest panoramas in the Pennine Alps, encompassing the Matterhorn, Weisshorn, Obergabelhorn, Dent Blanche, and the Monte Rosa massif.
Unlike many peaks in the area, there are no lifts to shorten the approach. The climb begins right in Zermatt, requiring roughly 2,600 meters (8,500 feet) of elevation gain under your own power. We stepped out the door of our Airbnb and started hiking uphill.
We were fortunate to secure last-minute reservations at the Rothornhütte (3,180 m), the modern Swiss Alpine Club hut that serves as the primary base for ascents of the Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn, and Wellenkuppe. Rebuilt between 2023 and 2024, the hut occupies a spectacular perch high above Zermatt with sweeping views of the surrounding four-thousand-meter peaks.
We left Zermatt in the late morning and reached the hut after a few hours of hiking. The afternoon was pleasantly relaxed. I spent most of it reading a book on the sunny deck while Nate enjoyed a late lunch in the bright windowed dining area of the hut. For a while we had the hut almost entirely to ourselves, but by evening it had filled with roughly 20-25 climbing parties, the majority accompanied by guides and only a handful climbing independently.
After an early dinner, we turned in for the night. At 2:45 a.m., the hut came alive as every party woke for breakfast. We were out the door by 3:30 a.m., near the back of the procession heading toward the mountain.
As on several other climbs during our trip, we were the only team without a rope. We were also the only climbers wearing approach shoes with lightweight traction spikes instead of heavy mountaineering boots and crampons. Traveling light allowed us to move efficiently, and we gradually passed team after team as the route steepened.
The final ridge above the Gabel was the technical crux of the route and the highlight of the climb. The scrambling was sustained and enjoyable on solid, high-quality gneiss with excellent exposure and difficulties up to about 5.3. Despite the complex terrain, the route was relatively easy to follow thanks to the polished rock and well-worn passage of countless climbers before us.
The climb from Rothornhütte to summit took us just under 3 hours. We spent about ten minutes on the summit, soaking in the remarkable panorama before beginning the descent. As we worked our way back down, the mountain grew quieter as we left the other parties behind. We arrived back at the Rothornhütte first, 5 and a half hours after we left, and gathered our overnight gear and continued the downhill hike all the way back to Zermatt.
The Zinalrothorn proved to be everything we had hoped for: an elegant summit, outstanding rock climbing, spectacular scenery, comfortable alpine hut, and a full-value alpine adventure powered entirely by our own legs. It was a wonderful way to cap off an unforgettable week in Zermatt.
This page includes a route overlay, map, time statistics, and photos from our ascent.
