Photos: | Photo descriptions: 1. View of the Sawtooths from the road between Ketchum and Redfish Lake. The burned trees are actually from the Hell Roaring Fire of July 2014, which had occurred when I was climbing the Perch in July 2014. (Here's a photo taken during my 2014 trip of the smoke.) 2. Leaving the Redfish hiker parking lot. It's a short hike to the marina from here. 3. Looking a bit out of place as we hike to the boat dock to catch the shuttle across Redfish Lake. 4. Shuttle boat signage. 5. Much better than hiking 5 miles around the lake... 6. On the trail. Photo by Alex. 7. The Perch in profile. This was taken shortly before we left the main trail to head up climbers' trail to the Perch. 8. Where we left the main trail to head up climbers' trail to the Perch. 9. Log crossing. This is a different log crossing than in 2014. I suspect it washes out every year and is rebuilt. 10. Our camp at Saddleback Lakes below the Perch. 11. Hang your food or you will come back to camp and it will all be gone and there will be a bunch of fat chipmunks waddling around. 12. Alex contemplating his second dinner... 13. Nope, the lighter is not edible. 14-15. Alex relaxing at camp doing some sketching. |
Photos: | Photo descriptions: | |
Approach | Approach from Saddleback Lake. The route is located on the left side of the south face. The first pitch starts just below the end of the descent gully. Seems like everyone has a different way to start the route, but all ways funnel into Pitch 2. | |
1. Our rack for Myopia. It seems the standard recommendation is to bring lots of small nuts. We also found the small offset cams and a double set of totems to 0.75 was quite useful. Plus a few larger cams to #3. | ||
Pitch 1 | ~5.8. Up cracks and corners to base of Pitch 2. Our Pitch 1 seemed like a logical way to start the route. | |
2. This was the start of our Pitch 1. We never did identify the Pitch 1 start posted on mountainproject. This seemed to work quite well. 3. Higher up on Pitch 1. | ||
Pitch 2 | 5.10-. Up a crack, then either a 5.10- fingers on left or 5.9 chimney on right. | |
4. Start of Pitch 2, 5. You have 2 choices: climb the 5.10- finger crack on the left of 5.9 chimney on the right. We went with the finger crack. | ||
Pitch 3 | 5.11- (crux pitch). Left-facing corner system. Techy laybacking and crux 5.11- section. | |
6. Looking up Pitch 3. 7. The crux section. There was a fixed nut in the corner. Excellent lead Alex!! | ||
Pitch 4 | 5.10+. Stem up steep corner. Small gear and techy climbing. | |
8. Alex heading up Pitch 4. This pitch was sustained so overall seemed just as hard as the previous pitch, 9. An idea of how steep it is. | ||
Pitch 5 | 5.10. Continue up corner. | |
10. Looking up Pitch 5. 11. Alex following Pitch 5. I was having too much fun and I went a bit higher than the standard belay at the end of Pitch 5. | ||
Pitch 6 | 5.10-. Switch cracks right, then back left into ramp/corner. | |
12. Starting up Pitch 6. Switch to right crack. 13. Higher on Pitch 6. Switch back to left. 14. Alex enjoying a comfortable belay at the top of Pitch 6. | ||
Pitch 7 | 5.9. Ramp to steep, juggy corner. | |
15. Looking up Pitch 7. 16. Looking down start of Pitch 7. 17. Steep corner on second half of Pitch 7. | ||
Pitch 8 | 5.9. Gritty flaring corner to ledge. | |
18. For Pitch 8, we went left. As you can see from the way the rope goes right first, we were a bit unsure of which way to go. I think left is probably the correct finish to Myopia, although right might work too. 19. Gritty flaring corner if you go left like we did. I think I enjoyed this pitch more than Alex did. | ||
Pitch 9 | 5.9. Pull right (and then back left) around the roof feature and then head up easier terrain to the top. | |
20. We finished the route by going right (and then back left) around the roof feature. | ||
Top! | Yay! | |
21. Alex striking a summit pose. | ||
Descent | Scramble down the ridge to the northeast, and then down the loose 3rd class gully along the east (climbers' right) side of the Perch. Make a single rappel at the end of the gully to get past the chockstone. From there, only minutes back to camp. Make sure to jump in the lake to cap off the day. | |
22. Heading down the summit boulders. 23. Descent gully. 24. The single rappel to get over the chockstone at the base of the descent gully. 25. Shiny rap rings to climbers' left of the base of the descent gully. 26. Alex capping off a great day of climbing on the Perch. |
Photos: | Photo descriptions: 1. Extra protein in the morning coffee. (The mosquitos were present, but not nearly as numerous as when I had been to the Perch in early July 2014.) 2. Looking up Pitch 1 of Astro Elephant. 3. 30 minutes later....Bail #1. Notice the wet rock. 4. Waiting under an overhang for the storm to pass. 5. After waiting about 1 hour at the base, the rock looked dry and the weather looked reasonable so I headed up to lead Pitch 1. 30 minutes later, it was raining...Bail #2. 6. The view from the tent. 7. After a few hours in the tent, we were getting a bit antsy and it had not rained in awhile. So we headed up for attempt #3 on Astro Elephant, planning to climb the first 4 pitches to the ledge and collect our bail anchor at the top of Pitch 1. 8. Pitch 2. Not raining yet..... 9. Higher up on Pitch 2. 10. Bail #3. Downpour (+ lightning this time) arrived just as we finished Pitch 2. 11. Dreary day at the Perch. 12. Dreary day at the Perch. 13. Watch out where you camp or you might end up in a pond. 14. I spent the rest of the day doing nonograms in the tent. |