When planning my trip, I preferred an itinerary of biking the famed and rigorous Going-to-the-Sun Road on the middle day of my trip (the three days of the trip shown on my map can be done in any order, or direction for that matter). However, when I arrived in Glacier NP, the weather forecast called for "winds from the southwest, gusts as high as 32mph" for the second day of my trip. It would probably be a good idea to be on the east side of the continental divide by then, so that meant biking the Going-to-the-Sun Road on the first day of my trip. That meant I didn't have much time to sleep, since I had pulled into the park around midnight and had to be biking by 6am due to the uphill road restrictions on the Going-to-the-Sun Road (described to the right). So I drove right to Park Headquarters, where I had called the day before to confirm I could leave my car there while I biked the loop. Headquarters is located less than a mile along the Going-to-the-Sun Road. If it had been a full moon, I might have just started biking then, but instead I made room for myself in the back of my Subaru, set three alarms, and went to sleep. I was biking by 5:55am. Like most cyclists who do this route, I planned to bike the
Going-to-the-Sun Road from west to east; this way I could experience the full
impact of the dramatic 3,500-foot
thigh-burning climb up the west side (the climb would be a little less
than 2,100-feet if approaching from the east portal in St. Mary). The
climb is consistent, but not
steep, since during construction in the 1920s, the road grade stayed at 6
percent because cars shifted with 7 percent grades. As a result, despite the 3500-ft of elevation I had gained by the time I reached Logan Pass (which was about 5 times more than any hill I had encountered on the Oregon Coast Bike Route the previous week), I was still waiting for the "real climb" to begin! The first 20 miles went quickly. Then things slowed down as the route steepened, mid-morning traffic picked up, the road passed through several areas undergoing construction, and the route became more scenic (I took 148 photos en route to Logan Pass!). But somehow I timed it perfectly, and I arrived at Logan Pass at 10:58am, with 2 minutes to spare before the 11am-4pm bicycle road restrictions. Some highlights along the bike up to Logan Pass: West Side Tunnel, a 192-foot long engineering marvel, has two stunning alcoves framing Heavens Peak. The Loop, a massive hairpin turn, with a stunning backdrop of Heavens Peak across the valley. Haystack Falls, a stair-step waterfall whose ledges evolved from eroding layers of Belt Sea sedimentary rock. A Glaciation Exhibit which has spectacular views of the Going-to-the-Sun Road 2,500 feet below, and also interpretive boards that explain the glacial history of the U-shaped valley. Triple Arches is one of the most striking engineering marvels along the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Botanical wonderland of the Garden Wall. With road restrictions behind me, I stopped for a few hours at Logan Pass. At 6,646 ft, Logan Pass is the apex of the Going-to-the-Sun Road. It sits on the Continental Divide (The Continental Divide runs the length of North America from Alaska to Mexico, dividing stream runoff between the Pacific and
the Atlantic; pretty cool when you think about it!). Logan Pass sprawls with broad alpine meadows teeming with wildflowers and mountain goats. While there, I speculated as to the fate—giant hailstones?—of the 6% road grade sign near the top, I examined the stuffed marmots at the Visitor Center, I teased the luncher-stalking squirrels, I enjoyed the colorful wildflowers, and I experienced first-hand how quickly weather can move in over these mountains in the late summer. I also joined the 1.5 mile expedition to Hidden Lake Overlook, where a boardwalk leads a constant stream of people through alpine meadows to a knoll that views down to Hidden Lake's blue waters. It was 18 miles of downhill from Logan Pass to St. Mary, the eastern portal of the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Due to the afternoon thundershowers that had set in, I had packed my camera away, so I did not take any photos of the East Side Tunnel, which is the largest tunnel on the road and excavated entirely by hand—all 408 feet of it. Weather improved as I descended, so I stopped to pull out my camera at Sunrift Gorge; in this narrow roadside canyon where the water slices through the rock like butter, the shaded waterfalls are great for long-exposure photography. After this I passed Wild Goose Island Overlook, one of the most photographed spots in the park, where tiny Wild Goose Island cowers in St. Mary Lake below the Continental Divide's rugged skyline. Small, seasonal St. Mary bustles as a hub of campgrounds, lodges,
cabins, cafes, and shops. I stayed in St. Mary Campground, which offers $8 hiker/biker sites. Although there were a couple of hikers in the hiker/biker site, I realized I had not seen any other overnight bikers on route with me that day (I had seen one other biker, although he was clearly just out for the day). And the bike racks at Logan Pass had been empty. Although a spectacular bike ride, the Going-to-the-Sun Road doesn't seem to be nearly as biker-populated as the Oregon Coast Bike Route I had biked a couple of weeks previous.
| PHOTOS (Click to enlarge) Going-to-the-Sun Road west of Logan Pass  Logan Pass Going-to-the-Sun Road east of Logan Pass  | THE GOING-TO-THE-SUN ROAD
The Road The Going-to-the-Sun Road connects West Glacier and St. Mary by 52 miles of
one of the most scenic highways in America. Crossing the Continental
Divide
at Logan Pass (6,646 feet), the road is an engineering
marvel, full of tunnels, switchbacks, arches, and a narrow two-lane
highway cutting across precipitous slopes. The road also travels through an incredible diversity of landscape. Cedar rainforest
give way to windblown subalpine firs, broad lake valleys lead into
glacier corridors, thousand-foot cliff walls abut wildflower gardens, waterfalls spew from every pore, and ragged peaks rake
the sky. History It was not until 1932—after
nearly 20 years of planning and construction, fueled by burgeoning
excitement over the
automobile—that the first automobile chugged over Logan Pass. Surveying
the route required tenacity to hang by ropes over
cliffs and tiptoe along skinny ledges, and the crew turnover rate was high. Over six seasons, three companies
excavated rock using only small blast explosives and minimal power tools
to create tunnels, bridges, arches, and guard walls. With power
equipment
unable to reach the East Side Tunnel, crews cleared its 405-foot length
by hand boring 5.33 feet per day. Although cars started driving the
road in 1932, guardrails or grading were not completed until 1935, and
paving did not occur until 1952. The Going-to-the-Sun Road is now a National Historic Landmark. Another interesting historical note about the road is it's name, which is what
initially captured my attention. Officially named in 1933, the road borrowed its name
from nearby Going-to-the-Sun Mountain. Local legend told the story of
Sour Spirit who came down from the sun to teach Blackfeet braves
the rudiments of the hunt. On his way back to the sun, Sour Spirit had
his image reproduced on the top of the mountain for inspiration to the
Blackfeet. Popularity Now, as Glacier National Park's biggest
attraction and the only road bisecting the park, about 475,000
vehicles travel the road annually and this number is growing each year.
Most years, the road is open to cars mid-June through mid-September depending
on
conditions. Bikers relish spring and fall riding when the road is closed
to cars but snowplows have freed the pavement. Maintenance Once built, the Going-to-the-Sun Road has had to be constantly maintained. Avalanches,
torrential downpours, and snows wreck havoc. Constantly. Since 2007, the alpine
section of the Going-to-the-Sun Road has been undergoing a decade-long
$240-270 million rehabilitation project. The park tries to do
most of the work during the bumper seasons or during the night, but
nevertheless one can almost always expect some level of construction
going on. Bikers An important note for bikers: In the summer, two sections of the Going-to-the-Sun Road are closed to bicycle
use between 11am and 4 pm:
- From Apgar Road junction (at south end of Lake McDonald) to Sprague Creek Campground (mp 2 to mp 10.2).
- Eastbound from Logan Creek (just before uphill starts) to Logan Pass (mp 20.6 to mp 32.6).
My guidebook mentioned that it takes about one hour to ride from Apgar
to Sprague Creek, another hour to ride from Sprague Creek to Logan
Creek, and
about three hours from Logan Creek to Logan Pass. So, most bikers would want to start off by 6am to give adequate time to
reach Logan Pass by 11am. Also, although helmets are not mandatory in Montana, it's probably a good idea
to wear one on this road: the road is shoulderless, it sometimes has
debris, and most drivers are gawking at the views rather than watching
out for bikers. |