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Three routes on Black Velvet Wall in 10 hours: Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a, 7p), Sour Mash (5.10a, 7p), Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p)

Three routes on Black Velvet Wall in 10 hours

Routes:

- Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a, 7p)
- Sour Mash (5.10a, 7p)
- Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p)

Three classics on Black Velvet Wall in 10 hours. What a day!

Region: Nevada
Elev: ~5,400 ft
Rock: Aztec Sandstone
Mode: 
Date(s): April 28, 2026 (Tue)
Partner(s): Sean McLane

Route Overlays

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Intro

Sean and I were in Red Rocks trying to come up with a list of routes to climb—and somehow ended up with a list that would take years to finish. In the process, Sean mentioned he had never climbed on Black Velvet Wall in Black Velvet Canyon. That alone made the decision easy.

I’ve climbed a number of routes there over the years—Refried Brains, Prince of Darkness, Dream of Wild Turkeys, The Gobbler, Fiddler on the Roof, Sour Mash, Texas Hold'Em, Velvet Revolver, The Yellow Rose of Texas, and Epinephrine—and I think Black Velvet Wall has some of the best rock in all of Red Rocks. So when I heard Sean hadn’t been on it, I figured we had to fix that.

I hadn’t climbed Rock Warrior (5.10b R, 6p), so that became one objective. Then we got the idea: could we climb three routes in a day?

We picked two classic 5.10a’s—Dream of Wild Turkeys (7 pitches) and Sour Mash (7 pitches)—and planned to finish with Rock Warrior. Twenty pitches total. It felt ambitious, but quite doable given our pace on routes of similar character.

Sean wanted to lead everything, and I was happy to follow and keep the efficiency of a single system of fix and follow, knowing we would go a bit faster if we weren't switching blocks and Sean a bit faster leader than I am. The upside for Sean is that as a leader in fix and follow, you get the reward of hanging out at the top of every pitch snacking, enjoying the view, reading about the route, and watching other climbers; whereas as a follower there isn't much downtime as you are always either belaying or climbing.

Dream of Wild Turkeys and Sour Mash went quickly—just over two hours each, averaging about 18–19 minutes per guidebook pitch for both of us combined. We linked pitches where it made sense, climbing Dream of Wild Turkeys in five pitches and Sour Mash in four.

We slowed down on Rock Warrior—not from fatigue, but because the climbing demanded more care. It’s harder, more delicate, and runout in places, which kept us thoughtful and measured. Still, we made up time on the descent, cruising seven rappels in just 16 minutes—about 2 minutes 17 seconds per rappel.

We completed the linkup in just under 10 hours, base-to-base-to-base-to-base. No falls, no hangs, no takes.

The weather couldn’t have been better: a sunny morning, warming slightly toward midday, then full shade on the wall by noon. No wind—just a light breeze now and then. Several other parties were scattered across the wall, all enjoying the same perfect day.

It was a phenomenally fun outing.

This page includes a route overlay, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos.

Time Stats

Times
Leave car: 6:56 am
Arrive at base of Black Velvet Wall: 7:32 am

Start climbing Dream of Wild Turkeys: 7:46 am
Top of Dream of Wild Turkeys: 9:59 am
Start rappelling: 10:01 am
Base of Black Velvet Wall: 10:18 am

Start climbing Sour Mash: 10:28 am
Top of Sour Mash: 12:35 pm
Start rappelling: 12:37 pm
Base of Black Velvet Wall: 1:06 pm

Start climbing Rock Warrior: 1:17 pm
Top of Rock Warrior: 5:27 pm
Start rappelling: 5:29 pm
Base of Black Velvet Wall: 5:45 pm
 
Car: 6:44 pm
Splits
Approach: 36 min

Climb Dream of Wild Turkeys (7 pitches): 2 hours 13 minutes
Rappel (6 rappels): 17 minutes
Average time per guidebook pitch: 19 minutes
Average time per rappel: 2 minutes 50 seconds

Climb Sour Mash (7 pitches): 2 hours 7 minutes
Rappel (6 rappels): 29 minutes
Average time per guidebook pitch: 18 minutes 8 seconds
Average time per rappel: 4 minutes 50 seconds

Climb Rock Warrior (6 pitches): 4 hours 10 minutes
Rappel (7 rappels): 16 minutes
Average time per guidebook pitch: 41 minutes 40 seconds
Average time per rappel: 2 minutes 17 seconds

Base-to-base-to-base-to-base: 9 hours 59 minutes
Car-to-car: 11 hours 48 minutes

Climbs We Did

CLICK ON ROUTE TO DROP DOWN CONTENT

Dream of Wild Turkeys traces a natural line of least resistance up the sweeping shield on the lower left side of the Black Velvet Wall. The route links together excellent cracks and corners with stretches of striking face climbing, giving it a varied and engaging character from start to finish. It stands out as a high-quality climb for the grade anywhere. The two 5.10a cruxes are brief and well-protected by bolts, keeping the difficulties approachable while still memorable.

I had first climbed this route in 2015.

Route Overlay

Our Rack

Single rack to 4".

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Descriptions are taken from the Handren guidebook, which I consider the current definitive guide to the area.

Pitch 1

5.7, 75'
Climb up to the base of the corner then move out to a crack in the left arete. Up this to the anchor. This pitch is shared with Prince of Darkness.
We linked P1+P2.

Pitch 2

5.9, 150'
Move right and up (2 b's) into the base of a long right-slanting crack which is followed to an anchor on a light little ledge.
We linked P1+P2.

Pitch 4

5.10a, 180'
Thrash up the wide crack in the comer which gradually narrows. At the very top of the comer, a delicate slab (2 b's) leads to a hanging belay.

Pitch 5

5.9+, 60'
Delicate climbing leads out left across the slab (5 b's) to the base of a comer.
We linked P5+P6.

Pitch 6

5.9, 140'
Move up and right on a ramp. At the top of the ramp, climb up then back left into the comer (7 b's). Continue to an anchor a few feet higher.
We linked P5+P6.

Pitch 7

5.9, 110'
Climb a delicate, low-angled seam, then face climb (5 b's) to a big ledge in a large bowl.
Many parties rappel from here, although the next few pitches are well worth doing.

Pitches 8-10

P8: 4th class, 80'
Go up and right up the bowl, then out up and left on ramps and ledges to a good ledge with a bolt anchor at the base of a steep wall.
P9: 5.9, 140'
Climb a thin crack in the back of the beautiful right-facing comer to a good ledge with a bolt anchor (7 b's).
P10: 5.9, 150'
Climb past 4 bolts into a crack on the left. Follow this to a ledge with a bolt anchor.
did not climb

Descent

Rappel 
Rappel with single 70 or 80. There is an independent rap route between Prince of Darkness and Dream of Wild Turkeys.

Sour Mash follows an extended crack system along the right edge of the massive, arching roof on the Black Velvet Wall, before angling left across the wall above. It’s another outstanding route, but unlike many of the climbs on the wall, it leans heavily toward sustained crack climbing, punctuated by a few well-protected, bolt-guarded cruxes that add variety to the overall line.

I had first climbed this route in 2015.

Route Overlay

Our Rack

Single rack to 3", double 0.5"- 1.25".

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Descriptions are taken from the Handren guidebook, which I consider the current definitive guide to the area.

Approach

3rd
Start below the right end of the huge roof and a short distance left of a buttress of white rock.

Pitch 1

5.8, 100'
Climb up slabby rock for 40' to a nice lieback crack which leads to the ledge below a triangular black wall hemmed in by corners on either side.
We linked P1+P2.

Pitch 2

5.9, 70'
Climb the corner on the right, moving left and face climbing up to the apex of the black triangle (4 b's). Continue up the crack above for 30' to a belay beside a tree.
We linked P1+P2.

Pitch 3

5.8, 170'
Move out right and climb a rib (b), then over a bulge to a second bolt. Move around to the right into a crack which diagonals up and right (b) to an anchor. Climb the crack above (2 b's) to a ledge. Move left along the ledge (b) and go up a short corner to a higher ledge with a bolt anchor.

Pitch 4

5.7, 60'
At this point there are three parallel crack systems on the wall. Climb the central crack (b) to an anchor.
We linked P4+P5.

Pitch 5

5.9, 130'
Climb the long left-slanting crack on excellent rock, stepping left into a parallel crack and following this to an anchor.
We linked P4+P5.

Pitch 6

5.10a, 90'
Continue up the crack (5 b's) to a stance below a steep, shallow corner. Lieback up this, and over the bulge at its top (3 b's) moving right to reach an anchor at the right edge of a white roof.
We linked P6+P7.

Pitch 7

5.9+, 75'
Step left over the roof and go up a thin crack until it ends and a delicate sequence of moves leads up into a left-facing corner, up this then move right to an anchor (6 b's).
We linked P6+P7.

The first ascent team for Rock Warrior made a deliberate effort to keep bolting to a minimum. By linking subtle natural features and placing only a handful of bolts where absolutely necessary, they crafted a strikingly pure line up the vast face of the Black Velvet Wall. The result is a climb that can feel runout at times, but rarely crosses into truly dangerous territory.

Rock Warrior sees fewer ascents than other routes on the wall—the nextdoor Prince of Darkness has roughly five times as many ticks on Mountain Project, while Dream of Wild Turkeys boasts around thirteen times as many.

Route Overlay

Our Rack

Single rack to 2", Rp's, extra wires.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Descriptions are taken from the Handren guidebook, which I consider the current definitive guide to the area.

Approach

3rd
Start 30' to the left of an obvious, easy-looking crack, the first pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys. This is just to the right of a low ceiling and left of a short corner formed by a pillar.
No photos

Pitch 1

5.10b, 150'
Perhaps the neckiest pitch on the route, with the first bolt at 60' and some hefty runouts. Climb up and right on white rock to a slab (b). Move up then traverse right until below the anchor. Up the wall (b) to the anchor.

Pitch 2

5.10b, 140'
Climb up and left to a bolt then straight up the face to a shallow left-facing corner (b). Make difficult moves up the arete of the corner to a seam which is followed up and right (b) to an anchor.

Pitch 3

5.10a, 120'
Go slightly left (b) then up (pin) to a ceiling. Over the ceiling then up the wall (b) to the anchor.

Pitch 4

5.9, 150'
Up the face (3 b's) to an anchor at the base of a short corner.

Pitch 6

5.10a, 130'
Climb up to and over a roof (b), then follow thin cracks and seams up and right to an anchor around the corner.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

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