The route overlay below is from my book-in-progress which features some of my favorite rock climbs.

At the entrance to Juniper Canyon, just above the final corner of Ginger Cracks, rises a striking 350-foot knife-edge arête, clearly visible from the highway and especially dramatic in the morning light. Blade Runner, also known as the Ginger Arête, climbs this feature in three exhilarating pitches. Although Ginger Cracks has long been established, the Blade Runner extension is a more recent addition (mid-2010s), elevating an already excellent climb with three exposed, high-quality pitches along a classic arête. To access the extension, climb Ginger Cracks to the belay above its fifth pitch. Ginger Cracks itself is an excellent climb of sustained 5.7-5.9 crack climbing on excellent rock.

Although the crux moves are well protected, protection isn’t always available at every body length, so expect some sections of runout.

I had first climbed Ginger Cracks in March 2018. and remembered it as outstanding. Years later, I heard about Blade Runner and was immediately drawn to the idea of swapping the original’s more forgettable upper pitches for an exposed, aesthetic arête climb. That feature had caught my eye on countless approaches into Juniper Canyon, making the opportunity even more compelling.

The ascent in this trip report also doubled as a photoshoot for a magazine article—an honor I was thrilled about. The goal was to capture top-down shots of me leading the crux pitch of Blade Runner. I climbed with Elizabeth Miller, while photographer Ian Dzilenski jugging a fixed line we trailed behind. I ended up leading the crux pitch twice—once to allow Ian to get into position, and again for the photos—and later re-led the first pitch for additional crack-climbing shots. All told, it was a full day: ten pitches of leading, great company, and incredible climbing.

But on the hike out—a joking attempt to get out of those next-day personal shots—I tripped and went catapulting down the trail. And landed squarely on my face. I ended up with a few lacerations under my eye and on my nose, a split lip, a black eye, and a stubborn bloody nose—but fortunately no broken bones or teeth. If anything, it gave me a bit more character for the profile photos the next morning.

That evening, it was a treat to go through Ian’s images—he has a sharp eye for light, composition, and color.

Below is a trip report for Ginger Cracks + Blade Runner, including a route overlay, time stats, gear notes, and pitch-by-pitch photos. 

We brought a double rack of Camalot/Totems from 0.2 to #2, with a single #3. There were times when I wished for a second #3 (or #4 would do and add variety). I had nuts but never placed any. A dozen draws (6 alpine, 6 draws) was perfect.