I’ve chosen to keep this website subscription and ad free, but donations help support the site—thank you!
-Steph


Mountain Beast (5.11a, 8p), Eagle Wall

Eagle Wall

Route:

Mountain Beast

5.11a, 8p

A nice sunny route on the right side of Eagle Wall. A few pitches are outstanding.

Region: Nevada
Elev: ~5,500 ft
Rock: Aztec Sandstone
Mode: 
Date(s): December 4, 2025 (Thu)
Partner(s): Kyle Knight

Route Overlay

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Intro

I had climbed on Eagle Wall a couple of times before—Eagle Dance (5.10c A0, 9-10 pitches) in March 2016 and Levitation 29 (5.11c, 10 pitches)  in April 2024. One line that had always caught my eye was Mountain Beast (5.11a, 8 pitches), which follows a striking feature on the right side of the wall. It turned out to be a very good climb with a few stellar pitches.

I climbed the route with Kyle Knight, who had responded to a Mountain Project partner post I’d made about a month earlier. We’d climbed together a couple weeks prior and had a super fun day, so when I returned to Red Rocks—and he was still around—we decided to get out again. With temperatures dropping and sun becoming essential this time of year, Kyle suggested Mountain Beast. An excellent choice. Even though temps were probably in the low to mid-40s, we were perfectly comfortable in the sun with baselayers and windshirts.

We swung leads, with Kyle starting us off with Pitch 1. We linked Pitches 3 and 4, climbing the route in a total of seven pitches. We thought the route had some standout climbing, particularly Pitch 2 (5.11a) with its thin-face crux, Pitch 5 (5.10b) up steep and beautifully featured rock, and Pitch 6 (5.10a) a fun crack splitting the varnished face. We made good time, climbing the route in 3 hours 21 minutes.

Instead of rapping from the top of Pitch 6, we continued to the true summit of Eagle Wall and hiked out. This descent is gorgeous—polished watercourses, sculpted rock, and a peaceful wash—and it adds a lot of pleasant hiking to the day, if you are feeling into that sort of thing for the day.

This page includes a route overlay, time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos from our climb. Hopefully I’ll get the chance to climb with Kyle again some day—maybe in Washington, where we both spend part of our year.

Time Stats

Times
Leave Oak Creek Canyon Trailhead: 6:36 am
Base of route: 8:13 am
Start climbing: 8:26 am
Top of route: 11:47 am
Begin descent (walk off): 11:58 am
Oak Creek Canyon Trailhead: 3:00 pm
Splits
Approach: 1 hour 37 minutes
Climb route: 3 hours 21 minutes
Descent: 3 hours 2 minutes
Total time (car-to-car): 8 hours 24 minutes

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Pitch 1

5.9, 120'
Climb a left-leaning crack system on the left arele of a small buttress to reach easy rock. Go into a left-leaning corner, which leads to an anchor at a sloping ledge.

Pitch 2

5.11a or 5.10d, 60'
Step right and go straight up (4 b's) until it is necessary to traverse left across a thin, varnished stab (2 b's) to an anchor at the base of a corner.

Pitch 3

5.10a, 120'
Make a few awkward moves (2 b's) to reach an easier crack which is followed to a sloping ledge.

Pitch 4

5.8, 80'
Climb the short corner above, then move left and climb cracks in the arete to the left (b), passing a scary bulge to reach an anchor.

Pitch 5

5.10b, 140'
Step right and continue up the amazing vertical wall (9 b's) on good holds. At the top of the pitch, angle right to an anchor at the base of a shallow left-facing corner.

Pitch 6

5.10a, 140'
Climb the shallow corner to a ledge, then face climb past two bolts into a beautiful thin crack splitting the varnished wall. Follow the thin crack to easier ground, then continue past two more bolts to an anchor beside a tiny pine tree. This is the best place to start a rappel descent.

Pitch 7

5.7, 150'
Step right and climb an obvious corner system (this is the upper part of pitch 7 of the original version of Rainbow Buttress), past a bush then on to a large ledge with a big pine
tree.

Pitch 8

5.8, 150'
Climb up the slabby face (8 b's) to an anchor at the top of the wall. The rock is friable at times, but it is closely-bolted.

Descent

Walk off or Rappel
You can rappel the route with a single 70 from the top of Pitch 6. With some slings around the tree, it would be possible to rap Mountain Beast with two ropes from the top of the route.

Otherwise, from the top of the route, you can walk off.  To walk off from the top of the wall, scramble north to low-angled terrain below Rainbow Mountain. Follow ledges and ramps leading west below Rainbow Mountain. These ramps head towards an obvious red tower, called George Washington Tower, which sits on the ridge to the west. of Rainbow Mountain. Skirt the tower on its northern (right) side, scrambling across slabs and blocks to reach the ridge lo the west of the tower. Once on the ridge, descend down slabby gullies on the south side. These gullies eventually lead into the upper reaches of Oak Creek Canyon. 

GPS Track.

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
Please do not put links in your comment, as my spam filter will filter those comments out.
Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *