As soon as we got back to the car after climbing Dogma (5.11c, 15 pitches) on Mt. Wilson, Sean and I decided we still felt fresh enough to climb something mellow the following day. Rain was forecast in a few days, and if we finished before noon, we could chalk up most of the day as a rest day. I suggested Triassic Sands (5.10b, 5 pitches), which I’d climbed back in September 2014 and remembered as a fun romp. Sean had never been on it.

The long, elegant crack system of Triassic Sands is one of Red Rock’s oldest and most classic routes (FA Joe Herbst and Larry Hamilton, May 1972; FFA 1979). The climb follows a left-leaning crack—the rightmost of several parallel systems—up the wall about 100 feet right of Ixtlan. Most parties climb the first three pitches and rappel, but it’s well worth continuing up the excellent fourth pitch, which also has a rappel anchor. From there, easy fourth-class terrain leads to the summit, with a straightforward walk-off back to the base or the car for a quick, satisfying jaunt.

Sean and I left the parking lot with everything we planned to carry on the route, intending not to return to the base. Expecting other parties, we brought a couple of Micro Traxions and planned to simulclimb.

One party was already on the route, and another—Kyle and Hayden—was gearing up at the base when we arrived. I always hate the uncomfortable situation of asking to cut ahead and extend someone else’s wait, but Kyle and Hayden graciously let us go first. Sean and I simulclimbed the route, linking Pitches 1–4 in 47 minutes, then continued to the top in another simulclimbing block. Base to summit took 1 hour and 25 minutes.

After a brief summit break—taking care of business with a couple of phone calls and texts—we headed out to officially begin our rest day. I added more superglue to my fingertips.

This page includes an overlay (from my 2014 trip report), time stats, and pitch-by-pitch photos.