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Wild Granites May 2026: La Roca Más Fina (5.12a, 5p) on Toiyabe Fitzroy, East Face (5.10 C1 or 5.11, 11p) on Toiyabe Fitzroy, A Few Short Routes at South End

Wild Granites May 2026

Routes:

- La Roca Más Fina (5.12a, 5p), Toiyabe Fitzroy
- East Face (5.10 C1 or 5.11, 11p) on Toiyabe Fitzroy
- A Few Short Routes at South End (5.10b/c, 2p + 5.11-, 1p + 5.9, 3p)

Big granite walls in the remoteness of the Nevada desert.

Region: Nevada
Elev: ~9,000 ft
Rock: Granite
Mode: 
Date(s): May 19-21, 2026 (Tue-Thu)
Partner(s): Ira O'Meara-Costello

Route Overlays

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Intro

The Wild Granites. A remote, rugged, and little-known granite area tucked on the south flank of Toiyabe Range in rural central Nevada. The granite itself is unusual for Nevada: large expanses of clean, pale stone rising abruptly out of a desert landscape. The Wild Granites are a true adventure multi-pitch paradise. There are whispers that there are dozens of routes out here, but information on existing lines is sparse, and most of the documented climbs are adventurous multi-pitch trad routes ranging from 5.10 to 5.12c. Sparse information has helped keep the crowds away.

In early 2026, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell explored the Wild Granites. The duo established a first ascent on Toiyabe Fitzroy. Their trip was featured in the Get a Little Out There with Alex Honnold episode “Wild Wild Granites.” The episode captures the rugged nature of the region and also follows Honnold scaling a vertical bus, wandering through massive sand dunes, and exploring Goldfield. Link to episode.

I knew about the area before this episode aired, but now I had to go. The sense of adventure was obvious: huge unclimbed walls, total remoteness, and almost no information. 

In May 2026 I put up a post on Mountain Project looking for partners for Calaveras Dome in the Tahoe area. I got a few bites and managed to do a couple of climbs on the dome, but then the weather started to get hot. Ira O’Meara-Costello had messaged me about Calaveras but was open to other options, so I threw out the idea of the Wild Granites. He was in.

Not long after Ira and I arrived at the Wild Granites camping area, we met Chris Martinez and his pup Rigsby. Chris has created a nice landscaped camping area complete with solar and Wi-Fi, and is a sort of self-appointed area host and a pretty cool dude. He shared a bunch of beta with us about routes that are not yet published online. I will honor his request to share nothing that is not already on Mountain Project.

Ira and I climbed for three days. On the first day, we climbed La Roca Más Fina (5.12a, 5p) on Toiyabe Fitzroy, probably the most popular route in the area (since it is well documented on Mountain Project, and also because it is superb). On the second day, inspired to get to the summit of Toiyabe Fitzroy we climbed a link-up of features on the east face of Toiyabe Fitzroy. which I will call The East Face (5.10 C1 or 5.11, 11p), topping out on both summits; it was indeed an adventure. The third day, we climbed a few short routes at the south end; the rock was pretty gritty and the climbing was not nearly the quality of that experienced on Toiyabe Fitzroy, but it was pretty low stress cragging with a nice setting.

Update: I returned to the Wild Granites a few months later in August 2026 for a few more routes. 

On this page I give a full overlay and pitch-by-pitch photo spread for La Roca Más Fina (5.12a, 5p). I give a little less info for the other routes we did, just to keep the adventure alive.

Getting There

GPS Track for drive from highway to the WIld Granites camp. The instructions said to take Indian Burial Ground Road but it looked a bit rough and the road I took worked.  Leave highway: 39.044758, -117.165431. Camp (Picnic table): 39.06124, -117.19958. Chris' camp is a short walk southwest of the picnic table camp. Look for a trail with cairns and eventually solar lights.

Climbs We Did

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One of the most popular climbs—probably because it is one of the best documented—is La Roca Más Fina, an incredible line up the south face of the main wall of Toiyabe Fitzroy, the largest formation of the Wild Granites. The name translates from Spanish to “the finest rock.” The route was established in 2020. The climb gets sun all day after mid-morning.

La Roca Más Fina proved to be an incredible climb. The route was stout (particularly Pitches 2 and 5), but bolted anchors, bolts where needed, good protection, comfortable belay ledges, and a straightforward rappel descent made it reasonably approachable. I was especially impressed by the bullet-hard granite and its wild, unusual features—quite unlike any other granite area I can think of.

Ira and I swung leads, with Ira leading even pitches and me leading odds. This gave Ira the stout 5.11c P2 and me the 5.12a finishing pitch. All five pitches were excellent. Ira earned a proud onsight of the route, while I admit to aiding through the 5.12a section on the final pitch lead. We rappelled the route with a single 80. What a phenomenal day.

Route Overlay

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Our Rack

Doubles 0.1-#2 Camalot, single #3, set of offset cams; offset stoppers; several draws/slings; and an 80 m rope (or double ropes) if rappelling (a 60 m rope is sufficient if going to summit).

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd with a bit of 4th
From the end of the road and parking, follow a well-cairned trail up to the base of the east face of Toiyabe Fitzroy. The route begins from the notch between the pyramid-shaped formation—referred to variously as The Pyramid, The Cone, or Joey’s Tower—and the main wall. The easiest approach is via a 4th class weakness along the base of the wall. Fixed ropes and metal footholds assist passage through the 4th class terrain.

From the notch, locate the large slab of granite leaning against the wall. La Roca Más Fina begins just left of this slab in a finger crack.

The approach takes about 1.5 hours and gains roughly 2,300 feet of elevation.

GPS Track for approach from camp to the base of Toiyabe Fitzroy.

Pitch 1

5.10b, 25m
Start 1 meter left of the leaning block and follow a finger crack to a small roof. Continue up left of a larger roof feature into a layback, passing a bolt along the way. Move past several blocks into a left-facing corner and continue to a belay ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2

5.11c, 40m
Move left into the large flake system and follow it upward, placing gear wherever possible as the crack shifts between laybacking and flared sections. The climbing is sustained and at times insecure-feeling, though protection is generally good throughout. Higher up, the angle eases. Continue following the flake to a ledge with a bolted anchor. This pitch was originally rated PG13, though three additional bolts have since been added.

Pitch 3

5.10a, 40m
Climb the corner above until the angle changes. Look for features on the right wall, including a pocket that accepts a #3 cam. Continue straight up to a bolt, which gains access to a right-trending ramp. Follow the ramp past a corner until forced off it. Hand traverse right, passing one bolt and a horn to a stance. Avoid the bushy corner and continue up and right into a hand crack behind a wedged block. Stop at a ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 4

5.10c, 40m
Climb the corner above. When the gear becomes less than ideal, clip a bolt and continue past the top of the corner. Belay at a slung block above. If rappelling from the top of Pitch 5, note that the rappel station is located left and midway up this pitch.

Pitch 5

5.12a, 55m
Above is a beautiful bolted corner capped by a huge roof. Climb the corner, undercling beneath the roof, then launch into a long hand traverse with poor feet to a wild finish along a balancy ledge. This fantastic pitch—despite having three bolts and one fixed piece—will likely leave you with only a few nuts remaining on your harness by the end. Save your smallest pieces, like an 0.1 Z4 or equivalent, for the balancy finish. Stop at a bolted anchor. Use plenty of long slings to reduce rope drag, and beware of the rope-eating flake out left, which can create major problems when hauling or trailing a second line.

Descent

Rappel
From the top of Pitch 5, rappel the route with double ropes or a single 80 m rope. Using a single 80 m rope requires an additional short 20 m rappel to the anchor at the top of P3.

See the topo for rappel locations.

Alternatively, continue to the summit of the main wall via additional 5th class terrain, then locate the rappel anchors (they are not easy to find, but rappel a weakness to the north) and make four rappels into the notch behind the formation with a single 60 m rope.

(The following day, Ira and I climbed a route on the east face of Toiyabe Fitzroy, and summited, and descended this way. See photos in the East Face section on this page. I highly recommend summiting - there are two summits, both worth standing on top of, and a fantastic way to cap off the climb).

On our second day in the Wild Granites, we decided to climb a route on the east face of Toiyabe Fitzroy, the tallest wall on the main formation of the Wild Granites. We came across a hand-drawn topo on Mountain Project showing a route called “The Hook” (5.11). We got some additional beta from Chris, who had not climbed the route but had a general idea of where it went. In the end, we mostly just winged it pitch by pitch, linking a series of crack systems to the top.

The climbing went at around 5.10 C1, with a couple sections aided along the way. On the first pitch we pendulumed right, though we could have continued up on 5.11ish terrain with some bolts, and higher up I aided a traversing section on lead. The route would likely go at 5.11 if completely freed. The climbing was mostly pretty good, with some stellar sections mixed in with a few less memorable ones, but overall it maintained a relatively direct and enjoyable and adventurous line up the face. Several variations seem possible, though we generally tried to follow the easiest path available. Natural protection was good throughout. And we were surprised to find bolted anchors at nearly every belay. We also spotted several bolts on harder crack and face sections on the steep walls near our chosen line. There is clearly a huge amount of development up here, but the routes are kept quiet and most of them look quite hard. We climbed the route as 11 pitches to the top.

I’m not certain we actually climbed The Hook, so I’m just referring to our line as the East Face. It has certainly been climbed before—perhaps not with the exact linking of features we chose, but individually each section had clearly seen prior passage. Interestingly, I watched the Get a Little Out There with Alex Honnold episode “Wild Wild Granites” featuring Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell for a second time that evening, and it seems we climbed much of the same terrain as their route apart from the start. At least their first two pitches differed—they climbed a steep corner and bolted face, rating it 5.13c—but the video footage confirms that our lines merged shortly afterward.

We tagged both summits (both are worthwhile, though the lower one is cooler—requiring an airy, unprotected 5.5 climb to reach—and called “Party Hat”), then rappelled into the notch on the backside of the wall before scrambling back around to our gear at the base. We made it back to camp before dark.

What a fun adventure. Climbing the longest face on Toiyabe Fitzroy was incredibly rewarding, and standing on the two summits was the highlight of the day. What an amazing place.

Route Overlay

Our Rack

Doubles 0.1-#2 Camalot, single #3, single #4, set of offset cams; several draws/slings; and an 80 m rope. (A 60 m rope is sufficient for rappelling from the summit, but we had an 80 m rope stashed up there because we had needed it to rappel La Roca Más Fina the previous day. We also figured it couldn’t hurt to have a longer rope in case The Hook ended up being more adventurous than expected. In fact, we even brought an Escaper for that possibility.)

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Approach

2nd
Same as for La Roca Más Fina except do not go up the 4th class gully alongside The Pyramid aka The Cone aka Joey’s Tower. We decided to start up the corner to undercling at the base of the east face, left of some cracks that also look climbable. No first pitch seemed easier than 5.11.

Climb

5.10 C1 or 5.11, 11p
We pretty much followed weaknesses up the wall. A few sections we did aid but would probably go free at 5.11.

To the right is a montage of the climb, in order of the time the photo was taken during the route.

The third day, we climbed a few short routes at the south end (Chris had given us some route beta); the rock was pretty gritty and the climbing was not nearly the quality we had experienced on Toiyabe Fitzroy, but it was pretty low stress cragging with a nice setting. Birthdazed (5.9, 3p) was my favorite of the bunch.

Pitch-by-Pitch Photos

Comments Pertaining to this Page / Trip Report

Useful beta. Updated route information. Corrections. Historical notes. Interesting facts. No fluff please.
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