Trout Creek Climbing (2015, 2017, 2025)

Route:

various

Region: Oregon

Elev: ~2,000 ft

Rock: Basalt

Mode:

Date(s): 2015(x1 day), 2017(x2 days), 2025(x2 days)

Partner(s): John Plotz (2015); Todd Anderson (2017); Trevor Lewis, Lurana Crowley, Will Maness, Nate Beckwith (2025)

Trout Creek is Oregon's premier destination for pure crack climbs, featuring vertical cracks in corners and stemboxes on towering basalt columns. Most routes are in the 5.10-5.12 range and the climbing is physical, routes are long, and the rock is rough.

I've only climbed at Trout Creek a handful of times, usually linked with some climbing at nearby Smith Rock.

On this page, I give photos from my two trips to Trout Creek. At the bottom of the page, I keep a list of the climbs I've done at Trout Creek.

Photos

SOME RANDOM PHOTOS FROM CRAGGING AT TROUT CREEK

More climbing fun!

Date: September 14, 2015 (Mon)

Partner: John Plotz

Climbed at: Main Wall, The Northern End

Routes (ordered by grade):
• Salad Daze 5.9
• Two Step Right 5.9+
• Gold Rush 5.10-
• Two Step Left 5.10-
• JR Token 5.10
• Where's Noah Vibbert 5.11-

John and I were headed to Yosemite, but bailed halfway there due to wildfires near in the Valley. We detoured to Smith Rock and Trout Creek for the weekend, climbing one day at Smith Rock followed by a day at Trout Creek. This was my first time climbing at Trout Creek. I was impressed with the quality of the climbing. As a crack climber, I like this place!

More climbing fun!

Dates: September 15&16, 2017 (Fri&Sat)

Partner: Todd Anderson

Climbed at: Main Wall, The Northern End

Routes (ordered by grade):
• Wally's Warm-Up (aka U3) 5.9
• Girls with Chim(n)ay 5.10-
• Gods Must Be Angry, The 5.10-
• Gold Rush 5.10-
• Sleepy Hallow 5.10-
• Mr. Squiggles 5.10b/c
• JR Token 5.10
• Pan Handlin' 5.10
• Wondertwins 5.10
• Diminishing Returns 5.10+
• Long March, The 5.10+
• Space Between, The 5.10+
• Suzuki 5.10+
• Alchemy 5.12-

Todd and I had planned on a trip to the Pasayten, but a large wildfire caused us to adjust our plans (it was a fire that caused me to come to Trout Creek the first time too). So we headed to Oregon, climbing at Trout Creek for two days and then one day at Smith Rock. Todd and I climbed several of the "best 5.10"s at Trout.

More climbing fun!

Dates: October 4&5, 2025 (Sat&Sun)

Partner: Trevor Lewis & Lurana Crowley (Sat), Will Maness & Nate Beckwith (Sun)

Climbed at: Main Wall

Routes (ordered by grade):
• Bushwhacker 5.10-
• Mr. Squiggles 5.10b/c
• Wengerbanger 5.10
• JR Token /w Extension 5.10
• Suzuki 5.10+
• The Space Between 5.10+
• The Long March 5.10+
• U2 (Unknown 2) 5.10+
• Fire and Sage 5.11-
• California Weakender 5.11b
• Gateway 5.11
• Winter Sustenance 5.12
• The Mayfly 5.12+

Taking a break from my longer stay at Smith Rock, I spent the weekend climbing at Trout Creek. On Saturday, I teamed up with Trevor and his girlfriend Lurana (I’d first met Trevor the year before in Yosemite). We each got in about eight pitches, from 5.10 to 5.12+. With so many friendly climbers around and plenty of ropes hanging, I only led one pitch—The Space Between (5.10+)—and toproped the rest. By 5 p.m. I headed back to my car, saving energy to climb strong the next day. Thanks Trevor and Lurana for inviting me to join for such a fun and productive day!

On Sunday, I climbed with my old partner Will Maness. We ticked off a handful of 5.10+ and 5.11s, all new to me, with Gateway (5.11) standing out as my favorite. Will put down a couple of solid 5.11 onsight leads. Midday, my friend Nate Beckwith—fresh back from a quick trip to Boulder—joined us for a few pitches to round out the weekend.